Isn't the Jeep JL a Drivers side drop on the front, while the 100 is a passenger side?
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- Thread starter solarinsocal
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Why bother going through the trouble to change axles if you're just using Jeep D44s? No notable gain in strength over the 80 axle. More width I guess, and I suppose there is a lot more aftermarket support for them though (maybe because they need more support?) Also, @hoser is correct in the diff drop side - that would mean making a custom housing which would add a lot of time and expense.
3-link it with the 80 axle, or go with a Dana 60 or hybrid like @I Lean. Don't waste your time with the JK/JL/JT parts.
3-link it with the 80 axle, or go with a Dana 60 or hybrid like @I Lean. Don't waste your time with the JK/JL/JT parts.
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- #23
Yes, the tubes will need to be cut and modified along with axle shafts.
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- #24
There are a couple of reasons for wanting to move to different axles. The D44 axles have the steering linkage in the front versus the rear on the 80. The aftermarket support is greater for sure, for example, I was looking for an axle truss for the 80 series and I couldn't find one. The track width will work better for the 100 series because it is I believe 5" wider. The 80 axle that I am using is narrower than the 100 series track width so I am using spacers in the front to make up the difference. The axles use universal joints which are easier to fix on trail, and I want to get rid of the radius arms. I may just three link the 80 axle to begin with and go from there. I just wanted to get some ideas from you guys. Thanks.
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- #25
Fully valid questions. I started with the Dana 60's because they are strong, and have ABS tone rings built in--and it is possible to retrofit different tone rings in them, which I needed to do in order to match the Toyota tooth count. I customized them because they all have a driver's side differential, so they would need to be retubed for passenger side drop anyway. The 60 center will not fit well in the space available between the frame and engine in the 100...the 44 fits in there much better. Plus, doing it this way made the retube relatively easy, since the D60 axle tubes can just press over the factory 44 axle tubes.
I am also looking forward to NOT having closed knuckles. I love the simplicity of the open knuckle/unit bearing setup.
The D50 gears in the 44 housing are just because it's possible.From the factory, the 80 and 100 front ends use an 8" ring gear. The D44 is an 8.5" ring (so it should be slightly stronger), and the D50 is a 9" ring. Dana torque specs put the 50 at 44% stronger than the 44.
An 80 axle requires the use of an 80 rear axle as well, since they are narrower than the 100 axles. And you're stuck with the 8" ring gear. And I'm not sure there's enough room to fit a coil in between the frame and tire...I did not want coilovers or struts.
Custom housings are really nice, but cost a bunch more. This way was relatively cheap, other than the labor required to build it.
I'm planning on 35" tires.
@bryson Thanks for the thread to @I Lean. I think he answers everything here best. It's the same issues that I'm going through right now, but he thought it out prior to cutting everything out of the 100, I did not.... I went the cheap and easy way and used 80 axles...
If you want front steer, folks often buy the RHD steering arm (and cut the rear arm off). Slee and others offer a double shear arm. I agree, the 80 series axle track width makes it tight to fit with the wider 100 frame.
People have also widened Toyota axles using machined extension tubes on one of both sides (depending on where you want to diff to sit. You can also use 105 hubs to get matching bolt pattern front and rear.
My lx has a diamond 9.5" front with 80 outers and hellfire knuckles that matches the rear width. Strongest setup you can get keeping things all toyota. I would not waste any money on d44 stuff, go straight to 05+ superduty axles if thats the way you want to go. 3 link is the best for these, radius arms are crap. Be prepared to build at least 1 new motor mount to get upper link clearance. my motor is moved up 1" and the axle is about 3" forward from stock centerline. My height is about the same as yours, 5" uptravel, 9" down. I am on short body king 14" coilovers that are close in extended length to yours. I have the slee passenger side steering arm and rhd arm on my 80, hellfire knuckles are way better and not much more.
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- #28
Thanks for the info on the double sheer arm from Slee. I definitely have more to think about, but this is a piece of the puzzle for sure. I was looking into the 105 hubs out of Australia, but it was hard to get info and parts. Most people were not willing to ship to the States and I also didn't want to take a chance on expensive parts not fitting once they arrived. The easiest solution was to just use spacers and finally get the LC back onto the trails.
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- #29
I will definitely look into this. I did want to go to Super duty, but the clearance issues were what was holding me back. If you have pictures, it would help. Thanks for the info. My axle is pushed about 2.5" as well. It's annoying that I have the travel, but not the articulation due to the radius arms binding.
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- #31
Wow, that is looking choice. What size tire is that and how much taller than stock? It's definitely sitting higher than my 100.
37s, sitting on 4" springs from Dobinsons, each corner with a 30mm spacer. It's a touch higher than it needs to be, so someday I'll yank those spacers out. There is an additional 1" body lift stuck in there from the days where I was sure I could be happy with 35s on torsion bars. At this point I'm too lazy to remove it.
Appreciate it!
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- #33
It looks great. I was thinking about running 35s, but your setup makes me reconsider. Are there any drawbacks to the 37s?
Other than gas mileage, just small things—little bit harder to turn tires at idle (but not significant), and the extra height can be challenging without a sway bar.
I haven't done anything about the mileage so far. I might yet under drive the t-case, but I'm not super worried about it yet. It's not a Prius. I did follow some of the 80 guys with a tiny 1" hydro assist ram to fix that (and love it, one of the better modifications for me), and @nukegoat's idea on a sway bar.
I haven't done anything about the mileage so far. I might yet under drive the t-case, but I'm not super worried about it yet. It's not a Prius. I did follow some of the 80 guys with a tiny 1" hydro assist ram to fix that (and love it, one of the better modifications for me), and @nukegoat's idea on a sway bar.
wow, would love to see more pics of the build process