Builds Sandy the '60 (1 Viewer)

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..because the instructions say so?

I've also read here on mud that it's the way to go. If you try to put it on wet, it makes a big ole mess and slides all over. By bolting down the cover, it squishes the semi-dried adhesive and forms the appropriate seal.
Theres a diference between "let sealant HARDEN" and "squishes semi-dried adhesive" no?
 
Theres a diference between "let sealant HARDEN" and "squishes semi-dried adhesive" no?
🤷‍♂️

The instructions say "for up to 24 hours". I'm not sure what more you need there, but you are welcome to ask 3m through their "contact us" link here.

This stuff, like a lot of approved cork-gasket-sealant products, never actually gets HARD. My apologies if I mislead you in any way.
 
right on. Appreciate your parts list!!! Doing this job atm....ty
 
I have a local shop that offered to put my cover in their hot tank for a while - WAY more effective than degreaser and scrub brushes.
 
I have a local shop that offered to put my cover in their hot tank for a while - WAY more effective than degreaser and scrub brushes.
Thoughts on having the side cover sand blasted?
 
Thoughts on having the side cover sand blasted?
If you have easy access to a media blaster, I think it's a great idea! If you do that, you might as well have them blast your air cleaner, the firewall access port covers, etc. Repaint (or powder coat) everything at once.
 
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After almost 3 years of searching…

Unobtanium 😍
 
It's been a while.. been too bloody hot around here.
Took her out this weekend and learned the motor mount lesson. :banana:

Under heavy load (4-low wheelin'), the driver side motor mount breaks itself in two, then the motor is able to torque itself up a few inches, which causes the fan to hit the fan shroud and make some terrible, terrible noises.

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I was climbing the hill in the photo here, about 3/4 of the way up.. The noise seemed to only happen in L4, appeared to be rotation-dependent, and was a very disturbing screech/grind. To be honest, at first I thought this was a catastrophic transfer case or front diff issue.

Luckily that wasn't the case. Ended up using a tie-down wrapped around the frame to keep the motor in place - I had several more hills to climb to get back to highways. Two OEM motor mounts will be here in a few days from Partsouq, along with shiny new nuts and washers.

I have since read that this is a fairly common issue on 60s that wheel. Some people recommend cutting the studs off the stock driver-side motor mount, drilling it through, and using a single, long bolt to hold it all in place. Others suggest carrying ~2' of chain and a bolt to button it back in place when it breaks, similar to my ratchet strap approach (but more resilient).

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Anyway.. we've had a fun couple weekends wheeling, uncovering problems, and looking forward to cooler weather where I can get back to work on the never-ending list of projects.
 
Headlight upgrade/refresh because, again, why not.
Koito H4 upgraded lenses/bulbs. New OEM bolts/screws/springs. Refreshed cans (CLR, scrub, gloss paint).

Part NumberDescriptionQTY
90189-05013Headlight Plastic Nuts (snap into inner ring, same as turn signal nuts and tail light nuts)8
90160-40002Headlight Door Screws, Bottom6
90167-40010Headlight Door Screws, Top 2
90189-04069Headlight Door Nuts (replaced sheet metal clips)6
81131-10031Headlight Adjustment Screws4
81121-62010Headlight Adjustment Springs2
93311-16012Headlight Base Ring Bolts6
81136-12571Headlight Fascia Ring Screws6
81111-89117Headlight Chrome Fascia Rings2

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With all the Koito 81110-60P70 wiring harness problems I'm hearing of lately, I opted to stick with factory (for now). It's inspection time. Once I have time to tackle the headlight harness and also clean up some of my other 12v switching/relays, it will be swapped in (routed from DRIVER's side first, and high beam indicator swapped with an LED).
 
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I finally threw in the towel on the MSD Recurve this weekend. I was just never able to get the truck running consistently the way I’d like.

...so I went back to stock dizzy springs. (these are the MSDs, on their way out)
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I re-visited my original desmog efforts by adding the EVAP VSV/Charcoal Canister (AC Delco 215-153) circuit mentioned here, as well as the BVSV carb breaker.

I reset the timing (de-smogged at sea level, set to 10* per JimC), ran through the Lean Drop method.. and OH MY GOODNESS. Seriously, she's never run so well.

Now I'm collecting parts for the knuckle job and some 12v cleanup. The projects, they never end!
 
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I finally got around to tackling the knuckle rebuild. Mine wasn't terrible, but the passenger side had been slowly dripping for a long, long time. As many others have said, this is an incredibly straightforward process, but you can spend a lot of time cleaning, prepping, and painting if you are so inclined. I am forever grateful to the muffler shop down the street who has a hot tank and lets me pay them to run parts through it.

I recently had a conversation with a previous owner who told me he blew a birf back in '09 and rebuild only that side. That explains the marlin crawler axle seal I pulled from the driver's side (as opposed to the OEM style in the passenger). 😆 Needless to say, it was about time.

I took advantage of the downtime and decided to invest in new rotors, calipers, hubs, and anything that I thought was worth replacing.


Here are a my cliffs notes for anybody who may be overwhelmed by all the knuckle rebuild advice out there:
  • Buy yourself a brass drift AND a brass hammer.
  • Don't bother relying on a machine shop to remove/replace wheel studs (they'll just use an air hammer anyway). Use the brass hammer above. They'll be fine.
  • Use the brass hammer directly on the tops of your studs to release both sets of cone washers.
    • If they're stubborn, I found success driving a tiny flathead screwdriver into the gap in the cone washer and wiggling it a bit, then hitting with the hammer again. Another trick was to put a spark plug socket over the stud around the cone washer (without hitting the cone itself).
  • Order your knuckle rebuild kit through Cruiser Outfitters, and opt for the Marlin seal and koyo upgrades.
    • I went with Marlin's kit directly (because of the seals), but it was more expensive and didn't have everything I wanted. They consider the split rings and wiper covers 'reusable' so they don't include new ones, and I wasn't able to find anywhere to buy them individually.
  • Also buy (koyo) wheel bearing kits while you're in there, unless you know for a fact that yours are in good shape.
  • Measure your trunnion pre-load BEFORE you install the inner axle seals. If it's out of spec and you need to use an SST, you'll thank me later.
  • Pre-empt the parts that will be worn out or damaged ahead of time, and buy them before you start. (table below)
    • This will help out your timing a LOT. These are all relatively inexpensive. f you don't use them put them in the trail spares or backup pile for a friend in need.
PNDESCRIPTIONQTY
90214-42030Claw Washer (most I've seen are damaged from improper wheel bearing preload)2
43521-6001154mm Axle Nut (usually damaged from PO using a screwdriver)2-4
94115-71200Top & Bottom Spindle Nuts (mine were nasty)16
90201-12019Top Lock Washers (I didn't, but wish I would have)8
94531-01200Bottom Wave Washers (these actually do wear out)8
90126-12010Spindle Studs (in case any are damaged)2-16
90116-10150Exhaust Studs. Use these to align and stack the seals/etc onto the knuckle2
90520-27091Birfield Inner C-Clip (breaks when you separate them)2
90942-02053Wheel Stud (repair and/or preventative maintenance)6-12
04465-35170Brake Pads1
Anything elseTake a close look before you start, note anything that's in questionable condition
Cone washers, hub acorn nuts and bolts, castle nuts, tie rod boots, brake lines, etc

Grease: I used Lucas Red n Tacky for trunnion and wheel bearings, and Valvoline Palladium 3% for birfs, knuckles, and freehubs.
Paint: I used Duplicolor Engine Enamel primer and paint.

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Great thread thanks for all the info. How did the engine mount replacement go?
Easy peasy. I didn’t go the sideways-bottle-jack frame-rail route, I just put a 4x4 on its end under the crank pulley for a second and swapped it out. What I learned here is that the passenger side isn’t that susceptible to wear/issues so I left it be (and kept the new one as a spare).
 

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