SANDBLAST-Am I Crazy??? (1 Viewer)

Joined
Mar 24, 2004
Messages
65
Thinking of doing a frame-up resto on the cosmetic side of things for my '78 FJ40. The guy who painted it did a terrible job and did zero prep. There is very little rust on the body tand I think that it is definitely worth fixing.

I have a guy that will sandblast the entire body for about $300. I figure I can break it down and get the body/hard top sides/hard doors on a trailer and take that to him. Meanwhile I could spend the next week or so cleaning up the chasis and the engine. Once the sandblasting is complete, I would take all of those parts to a body shop and have them do any necessary body work/dent removal/rust repair. Then roll the trailer to the Rhino Lining shop and do the enterior and underside of the entire body. Then roll it back to the body shop for final prep and paint. Then re-assemble. I'm figuring I could get this completed in about 6 weeks, am I crazy? Has anyone done this that wants to share learning pionts?
 
Joined
Oct 6, 2004
Messages
1,569
Location
Longmont, CO
I think I would keep it at the body shot nad have them paint the whole thing or at least prime what is going to be rhinoed and paint the rest becasue I would immagin that it would be easier to rhino over paint then to mask off the rhino then paint and still make it look good. Too much texture.
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2003
Messages
149
I did this drill with my 79FJ40 resto job - strongly advise you to watch the sandblasting - be sure the guy has done car/body panels before - as he can warp the metal real quickly if not careful. I'd avoid panels that have braces behind them - things like the hood for instance are real easy to warp. The front fenders can be tricky as well. Also, be sure he uses a fine grit - nothing real aggressive or you will be having to have a lot of primer shot to fill the indentations left from blasting.

Finally, the rhinoliner folks are going to want you to have a good epoxy type primer on the bare metal before they apply their product. I used POR-15 for additional rust protection - no problems.

The debate on rhino or paint first is one you will get different answers depending on if you talk with the paint guy or rhino guy - each likes to be 'last' in line. I had my tub bottom rhinolined then had the outside painted - then took it back to the rhino guy for them to do the inside tub. This way only minor tape up/masking by the paint guy to keep paint off the new rhino and same for the rhino guy after the paint was on the inside of the tub/dash, kick vent area, etc. Makes for a sharp line on paint/rhino junction. Very clean job - the rhino folks just don't like taping up a new paint job because they are worried about the tape pulling up the new paint. I let mine cure for a few weeks then took it over. Actually, I assemblied the tub back on the painted frame so it was on a rolling chassis - didn't have to worry about them or me banging the tub on a trailer on the ride back to the rhino dealer.

Good luck! Hope this helps.
Tom
 
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
44
Self Blast??

I do all my own blasting, have a large compressor and bought the biggest blaster harbor freight has. It's not strong enough to damage panels, like the commercial sandblasters will. It's pretty simple to remove and blast your own stuff, sand is $5 a bag around here, probably could do an entire 40 in and out with about 6 bags. I just do one piece at a time, inside and out, and immediately epoxy prime before moving on. I know the Rhino (brand) guys around here blast to bare metal anyway, so you wouldn't need to do the floors. Best of all, when you're done, you own the equipment.
 
Joined
May 11, 2003
Messages
338
Location
Elmwood, WI
Alot of people on here say sandblasting is definately worth hiring out. Sand everywhere, messy, pain in the a@@ and just plain no fun. To each his own. I was going to try and do it myself but after everyone stating it was more work than it is worth I am going to hire it out when I want it done. Anyway, have you shopped around on estimates for this? I do not know where you are but have heard people getting it done for 100, 150. that is half of what you got quoted. make sure you shop around when hiring work out like this as prices can vary so much from shop to shop. In the end go with one you trust and feel good about. Ask questions when you get the estimates and feel out the work they have done/do. Your gut will tell you which shops are gonna do crappy work and which ones are honest and will work hard. Good Luck

:cheers:
 
Joined
Mar 9, 2004
Messages
1,264
Location
Diamond Valley, Nevada
Do not even consider doing the blasting yourself, $300 seems fine to me considering I blasted the entire inside of my 40 and Durabak'd as well. next time i will pay for blasting and Rhino/LineX - both are a pain, the Durabak was relatively easy but the blasting is not worth your time and health risks.

make sure you are comfortble with the shop(s) you are working with and your plan sounds about right, ask what types of blast media they are going to use, may be worth the extra $$ for platic bead or walnut shells if you are worried about the condition of your panels. I really doubt that a reputable blasting shop will do any damage.
 
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
1,698
Location
St Petersburg, Florida
Body panels will warp. Even with light blasting. It's great for interior panels and door jambs, but once you get more than 6 inches away from the edges and toward the middle of a body panel, they start to warp. The rear quarters are probably thick enough guage where they won't warp, but I would stay away from the middle of the doors and the hood..
 
Joined
Feb 3, 2004
Messages
114
Blasting

I think I would reconsider the sand blast and think about soda blasting instead. Cheaper and enviromental friendly. Hi pressure water and soda. Theres alot of body shops around that are useing this method now , with no metal deformation at all.
Stroker
 
Joined
Jul 4, 2003
Messages
162
Location
Central coast,Ca.
Sandblasting

I had my whole tub blasted for $300.The rest of the panels later for $140-none of it got warped.I am painting the parts/tub first,then taking it to Rhino after a month or so of curing.My body guy is useing Omni industrial enamel.I think this is the best way to go.
 

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