Samurai stretch, auto,doubler to dana 300, stickies (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 29, 2007
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Location
Madison, MS
Hey guys here is what I am planning for the samurai...

3 speed automatic to 1.8 lowrange adapter/doubler to Dana 300 with 4:1 gearset and HD front and rear outputs.

rear stretch to 100 inch wheel base

double triangulated 4 linked rear
-would give me link clearance for future rear steer (still undecided)

14 inch Sway a Way Racerunner airshocks

39x13.50R17 BFG Krawler stickies on 17 x9 Raceline Monster Beadlocks.

stretched body skins

extend and redo rear roll cage

Ram assist for front steering.

I will test the above before moving to the front.

Front plans so far are:

to stretch out 7 to 8 inches

3 link

14 inch Sway a Way Racerunner Airshocks.

Oh and i already started ;)
Sammy no targo windshield down krawlers.jpg
sammy stretch.jpg
 
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Nice Lenny. Maybe I should leave my junk at home and we should work on this instead?:D
 
Very cool Len! Can't wait to see it progress.
 
It was so cute before.....

1084482310_Ckn5r-L-1.jpg

you know Catahoula rec area would be a great testing ground for it when its put back together :hmm:

Nice Lenny. Maybe I should leave my junk at home and we should work on this instead?:D

nah we will have your cage up and going in no time.

I will need your assistance with the adapter/doubler though. Sometimes it doesn't fully engage the gears and you hear that not fully engaged rrrrrr sound. Its just every so often.

i don't want it to slip out of gear while under load . I may just need a bungie cord :rolleyes:
 
you know Catahoula rec area would be a great testing ground for it when its put back together :hmm:

We can do some initial testing at my house. I have some great spots to twist one up.
 
We can do some initial testing at my house. I have some great spots to twist one up.

cool! that surely beats my trailer..

thanks Nolen

some more detail of the rear part of frame. Jrob and I narrowed the rear frame by about 2 inches on each side. rebuilt (notched) the rear most part of frame to allow clearance for Airshock.


I raised the rear most section 2 inches to gain more gas tank/cel clearance. had to extend frame to have fuel tank/cel behind and away from rear seat.
sammy rear frame notch.jpg
Sammy rear frame notch detail.jpg
 
I am thinking about dovetailing behind the original body.
If i dove tailed the whole body i would lose some room for back seats. its already starved for space back there.
I picked out some 18 gauge steel that is waaayy to freaking heavy.

what do the buggy's use? and where can i get it?

there is a paintable plastic sheet that looked like sheet metal when painted ... I can't think of the name of right now :hmm:
sammy cardboard dovetail concept.jpg
 
tore down the sidekick tcase for the 1.8 gears and some other parts.

I just noticed all the hammers in the pic :eek:
Hammertime!
I am not very patient :frown:
sammy kick tcase tear down.jpg
 
We use aluminum. Use tube to "outline" your rear and use aluminum to skin it. Circle track place in South Jackson or Byram has it. It is available in a lot of colors or you can paint it. Attach with Dzus or bolts/nuts with welded tabs.

Here is a picture of mine on the Bash Buggy that I did myself. Jimbo made me some later that looked much better. I have a butt load of Dzus tabs I can trade you for beer....

Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board - View Single Post - Working on the new Bash Buggy
 
We use aluminum. Use tube to "outline" your rear and use aluminum to skin it. Circle track place in South Jackson or Byram has it. It is available in a lot of colors or you can paint it. Attach with Dzus or bolts/nuts with welded tabs.

Here is a picture of mine on the Bash Buggy that I did myself. Jimbo made me some later that looked much better. I have a butt load of Dzus tabs I can trade you for beer....

Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board - View Single Post - Working on the new Bash Buggy

cool thanks for the info!
drawing a blank on what the Dzus tabs look like..

What kinda beer ya want? :D

There is another material used for body panels as well...
 
Finally got to use my Plasma Cutter again!

its been like, 2 hours! :bang:

I am still trying to figure out how I can garden with it ;)
sammy dana 300 shifter mount .jpg
sammy dana 300 shifter removed.jpg
 
which brings me to my next challenge... what to use for shifters since i had to cut the shifter mount off to fit the adapter/doubler.

I know there are cable shifters out there but i here different things about em.

Has anyone made their own cable shifters?

if so, don't be afraid to post up some pics of what you have seen or built.

Here is a pic of the Dana 300 rails with doubler shifter ( rectangular block above the d300 shift rails
sammy dana 300 doubler shift rail position.jpg
 
I know there are cable shifters out there but i here different things about em.

Has anyone made their own cable shifters?

if so, don't be afraid to post up some pics of what you have seen or built.

Yep, and I believe I sent you all the pics I have. I can talk ya through it if you'd like. Not difficult, but definitely some thought goes into it.

EDIT: If you've got the money, the NWF shifters are a great investment!
 
Lenny, I actually have ONE cable shifter from an old project (4 speed Atlas install) you can have for a case of low carb monsters :).

They work great. I used them on my Kate project to get my shifters where I wanted them.
 
After looking at Heim joints and johnny joints,
I think i have narrowed my choices for links to Ruff Stuff Specialties Heated and cryoed Heim joints.
After to talking to a few guys I am pretty sure this is the way to go.

I also looked at the QA1 Heims, but you just can't beat ruff stuff prices for all you get ( weld in bung and jam nut included)

I really liked the polyperformance uniball but it doesn't have a shank for adjusting link length and at $60 a pop they are really expensive.
 
After looking at Heim joints and johnny joints,
I think i have narrowed my choices for links to Ruff Stuff Specialties Heated and cryoed Heim joints.
After to talking to a few guys I am pretty sure this is the way to go.

I also looked at the QA1 Heims, but you just can't beat ruff stuff prices for all you get ( weld in bung and jam nut included)

I really liked the polyperformance uniball but it doesn't have a shank for adjusting link length and at $60 a pop they are really expensive.

Found 10% coupon code.
Ruff Stuff Coupon Codes - all coupons, discounts and promo codes for ruffstuffspecialties.com
 
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<3

saw a fool show out in one of these a couple of years ago at Hot Springs. Another fool was videoing the performance and got all excited in the middle and stopped recording....

driver of that Sammy looked Italian or Mexican, same color and everything as this junk.

:flipoff2:
 

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