Saginaw Power Steering Box Removal

[69FJ40NJ]

I have a saginaw power steering box, which I am replacing with the same. I have the 3 bolts out and reached into the cross support and can not feel any bolts etc... So I am now stumped on how to proceed. See pictures.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Are the splines holding it on? There is usually a grub screw or two holding on the joint.

 

[69FJ40NJ]

Are the splines holding it on? There is usually a grub screw or two holding on the joint.

What and where would these screws be located? When I did my firebird, it had a rag joint. Thanks

 

[DangerNoodle]

What and where would these screws be located? When I did my firebird, it had a rag joint. Thanks

The input shaft on the saginaw should be splined. The grub screws would be on the end of the joint, next to the box.

 

[69FJ40NJ]

The input shaft on the saginaw should be splined. The grub screws would be on the end of the joint, next to the box.

That would be inside the cross member, so do I have to find a place on the steering rod to disconnect and take the whole thing out?

 

[pjohnson]

Separate the shaft from the joint in the second picture. By the looks of things, you may have to cut it.

 

[pb4ugo]

Separate the shaft from the joint in the second picture. By the looks of things, you may have to cut it.

I agree. What's the other end of the shaft near the firewall look like. Hopefully It will be easier than trying to remove that rusted pin. Looks like You'll be removing the box and shaft together.

 

[B y r o n]

There is a hole in the left frame that lines up with the crossmember the front of the Saginaw box passes through. Look through this hole while someone turns the steering and you will likely see the fastener holding the spud shaft or u-joint to the steering input shaft.

 

[69FJ40NJ]

Thank you all, I will keep you posted.

 

[pjohnson]

Pics of the entire steering shaft system would be helpful. From what you have posted, the box is set too far back into the crossmember and the shaft from the box has been welded to another shaft that connects to one more shaft in some way before getting to the u-joint. All of which should probably be corrected before a new box is installed.

I have seen a lot of Saginaw installs, but never one like yours.

 

[peesalot]

almost looks like a pillow block with one of the old school spud shafts cut and welded to a D shaft, anyway if you get that shaft outa that ujoint the rest is cake.

 

[69FJ40NJ]

So, everything is either rusted together or welded together, so nothing is coming apart. Here is what I am thinking, cutting the shaft a few inches past the u-joint near the gear box before the cross member. Adding a coupler, new shaft and some kind of slip adapter to the gear box. Do you think this will work?

 

[pb4ugo]

It's as good a plan than any. I think your going to be rebuilding and redesigning a steering shaft. It looks like you have a lot of room for improvement.

 

[pjohnson]

I agree with @pb4ugo , it looks like it really needs an end to end rebuild. I would go so far as to seriously consider a redesign.

 

[69FJ40NJ]

I agree with @pb4ugo , it looks like it really needs an end to end rebuild. I would go so far as to seriously consider a redesign.

Again, newbie here, what does that entail?

 

[pjohnson]

Start here, on post #7

FAQ - 40-series FAQ

Welcome the the frequently asked questions about the Fj40 and Fj45. As Fj55's share a fair amount of components, there may be some links to posts involving 55 series. The FAQ will be locked, but the topics that are linked to will still be open, so if new info comes up, or someone has a...

forum.ih8mud.com

Search this forum for Saginaw and power steering. Also open build threads and search the same within those threads.

Learn things.

 

[Downey]

There is a hole in the left frame that lines up with the crossmember the front of the Saginaw box passes through. Look through this hole while someone turns the steering and you will likely see the fastener holding the spud shaft or u-joint to the steering input shaft.

There is a hole in the left frame that lines up with the crossmember the front of the Saginaw box passes through. Look through this hole while someone turns the steering and you will likely see the fastener holding the spud shaft or u-joint to the steering input shaft.

This is spot-on information ^^^^^. Your steering drive shaft installation is more home-made than I have ever seen, and installer did not leave a "slip-yoke" anywhere in the system. We actually tested, and the gear box moves 3/8" due to frame flex, soooo steering drive shaft has to be able to compress and extend with that movement. You don't need the pillow blocks, just get all new slip yoke drive shaft, with the new smaller steering universal joints (not your big PTO joints). The system you have now probably hammered the back of the soft plastic steering wheel, gives you a knock every time you hit a bump- - -sooooo push steering wheel down tight into the column before you weld-on the new upper universal joint, you don't want that gap.

 

[pjohnson]

The end of the steering column where the shaft comes out doesn't look normal. It seems as though there is no shaft support in the end, perhaps the reason for the pillow block.

Is your steering column stock or Chevy retrofit?

 

[Downey]

I do not presently have steering drive shafts in my inventory (changes all the time), but I recommend you check out the Borgeson steering shafts at Summit Racing. You will have to know if the splines on the input shaft of your gear box are 3/4-30, 3/4-36, or 13/16-36.

 

[Downey]

The end of the steering column where the shaft comes out doesn't look normal. It seems as though there is no shaft support in the end, perhaps the reason for the pillow block.

Is your steering column stock or Chevy retrofit?

When the universal joints are firmly attached to the top steering column and bottom gear box, no pillow blocks are needed.