Saginaw or "Toyota Style" Steering Conversion? (1 Viewer)

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What are you going to be doing with the truck?

On road, Toyota is fine. I prefer Saginaw.

Off road, Saginaw is the tits. Toyota is too hard.
 
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Mostly road use with skinny tires....Toyota is fine.

Offroad use and/or wide tires, or if you ever plan on doing Hydro Assist, then go Sag.

I would use a cooler and larger reservoir on either one, especially the Toyota. Heat kills Toyota PS pumps pretty quickly.
 
Are there any downsides to the Saginaw conversion?

Flash

Other than not being OEM Toyota, I haven't found any. It's a better system. You have less rod ends which means less play and less money to replace. The steering is also easier.
 
If you want power steering, go with Saginaw. Toyota power steering makes use of the same amount of "playful" rod ends and that stupid drag link and center arm. Don't bother throwing money away with the Toyota mini conversion. Find a good Saginaw kit from any of several companies and you won't be disappointed. Yes, you will have far more work to do but it is totally worth it.
 
I know I'm not suppose to advertise here, but this might make for some good reading:Downey Off-Road Home Page Menu
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Are there any downsides to the Saginaw conversion?

Flash

only down side is that it makes you mount most winches up High (id rather have mine down between the frame rails so it dose not block the Radiator airflow as much)

and Cutting a Huge hole in the Crossmember kindof sucks, but my bumper is welded solid..


33's and under - Toyota, Saginaw for anything more!

Toyota you can stay Spring under with stock Arms and Tie Rods.

Saginaw also normally means Hi Steer and Spring over..
 
I've done Saginaw on my FJ40.
It's probably THE BEST modification I've done to the FJ40.

I am not going to regurgitate what others have said, just will make a few points.

Cutting a hole in the cross member is about the hardest part. Just be sure to sleeve the frame with a piece of tubing rather than just leaving the hole there rough. Makes for a MUCH cleaner install and you don't run the risk of cracking the cross member.

I'd use a steel plate adapter over the cast steel plate offered by some vendors. I've seen several of the cast steel plates fail due to porosity of the casting. Mine is a plate.

Also, look for a Ford E-450 pitman arm. These are UBER beefy and take a Chevy 1 ton tie rod end.

Tie rods: call budbuilt. He makes some really REALLY stout tie rods (my budbuilt tie rod is 1.5" 3/8" wall DOM tubing with the stock FJ40 TRE's).
 
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I know I'm not suppose to advertise here, but this might make for some good reading:Downey Off-Road Home Page Menu
01.jpg


i added up the prices on your page and it looks as if everything needed is in the neighborhood of $953??? does this seem correct?? I am interested in doing a PS conversion and am trying to find out what its gonna take me to do a good, complete job....will i need anyting else except some hard work??

thanks Donwey
 
Scout PS mod is inside also, best of both? Anyone want to speak for the Scout mod--how's it perform?

Mines still in the box on the garage floor

IH8MUD.....FJ40 Scout Saginaw PS Instructions
I run a Scout box, pretty easy install. Basically, drill 3 holes, space it outboard 3/4" to clear radiator, and a Ford shock tower ( as you WILL have to modify the stock one pretty severly if you want to use it ). I'm not a radical wheeler by any streach of the imagination, but it does good for me, with an Auburn LSD in the front. Probley a none issue, but I didn't want to bore a hole in the front cross member. With the exception of trimming the inner fender to clear the box, the rest of the work would be the same for the other boxes. HTH, Al
 
well guys i guess i'm the black sheep. course i run a 60 series box instead of the mini truck style, its been fine with 37's.
 
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I run the Scout box. Seems like the best fit for a 55...
scoutbox2.jpg
 
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I'm going to try the 60 conversion with the sag pump. tucks away kinda like the scout box and you have to relocate your shock tower.
 
I have been very happy with my 60 box and saginaw type II pump (small one with remote reservoir). Here is one before the tube fenders, I hacked the inner fender up a bit, with a little more patience it can be pretty nice. Now I'm running 37's and it does well on the road and moderate wheeling. For rockcrawling the Sag box is s'pose to be better.
side box3mini.JPG
 
60 box on my 55, absolutly love it! so did my friends! so then I had to do theirs :frown:

36"s ARB ect never any problems, even in the rocks. I am running the sag pump though. I sleeved the frame and also welded a scab plate on the outside of the frame rail.

Probably gonna do a sag box on the 40 though- unless I find a good 60 box for a reasonable price
 
i run 60 box. love it.

don't go the mini box, they keep the drag link that keeps getting hit by tires over 33.

in AUS most the buggies etc run 60 power steering without drama.
 
only down side is that it makes you mount most winches up High (id rather have mine down between the frame rails so it dose not block the Radiator airflow as much)

and Cutting a Huge hole in the Crossmember kindof sucks, but my bumper is welded solid..


33's and under - Toyota, Saginaw for anything more!

Toyota you can stay Spring under with stock Arms and Tie Rods.

Saginaw also normally means Hi Steer and Spring over..

Where are you getting this crap?

You can mount a Warn 8274 between the frame rails just fine. Why would you want another winch?

Saginaw means hi steer and spring over? Wrong. I have run Saginaw steering with stock springs under the axle, 2.5" lift springs under the axle, and 4" lift springs under the axle, all with stock steering. arms.
 

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