RUUUUSSTY!!!! (what do you feed this animal?)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Dec 25, 2010
Central VA
Hello All,

I need some advice. Ive been lurking here trying to gather info on what it will take in order to join the LC club. Ive been searching Craigslist in search of an FJ60 or 62.

I recently came across an 84 FJ60 that is in my area and Inexpensive.... 144k miles. But, I went today to check it over and there were issues... some the owner knows about and some he hasnt really considered.

The story goes that he bought from a friend and then let it sit for 8 months. His friend had it on the road inspected and running but ended up running into mechanical problems and let it go cheap.

The New owner had intended to fix it up for winter 4x4 transportation but got caught up in other projects. So it has been sitting. He knew that there was an issue with the carb. It stalls out when going up an incline. Down incline does not effect the running of the vehicle. Other than that he hadnt dug into the mechanicals.

Ive been trading emails back and forth and that was about all he knew.

Today i go over and check it out. Looks awesome!!! some rust but ive got my cruiser goggles on. I start to look it over and it is typical sitting issues; dry rot vac and hoses, leaking seals, dead battery... the normal stuff. I checked the fluids before starting, oil looks good, coolant needs topped off, power steering fluid needs topped off and is obviously a leaker. I put my battery in, I prime the carb (which looks to have been recently rebuilt) and it fires right up! OH Thats why you guys called it a tractor motor! Still it is running smoothly. White smoke out the tailpipe till it warmed up. It didnt smell of oil or coolant so Im hopeful it is just steam from sitting.

I drive around a field and throw it into 4 high to check that it engages. then 4 low. Both work just fine. Hub locks turn easy. I take it up an incline and yeah it stalls out. I would guess at around 15 degrees of incline.

Sweeeeet Sweeeet Sweeeet!

Drive it around some more around that field. Got the fluids warmed up and parked it to give it another look. Checked the brakes, they work fine, ebrake too.

Rust... Hmmm there is a lot. It is in the back on the frame. Starting to get bad under the tailgate. Pass Rear Body mount is not really holding much anymore. Rear crossmember pretty much shot.

Underneath, Leaking seals. Both Diff pinion seals, Transfer case has RTV and looks to have been a real leaker at one point. I believe it is still leaking from the rear output seal.

While underneath I see a bit of smoke/steam from the bottom of the engine compartment. I open the hood and there is a leaking seal right next to the thermostat housing on the valve cover. That was too much for me. I told the Owner that it was more than i could handle confidently. I told him i didnt want to insult him on a price and that i would have to pass. He said "well im not going to be insulted" so i throw out an offer... he says for another $100 it was mine if i wanted it.


I havent bought it yet but he said he would like it gone by Wednesday. I told him i would give a yes or no by then. I have about a week of solid free time before I start back at school so I could invest some real work in that time, But i dont want the purchase price to be a down payment on a giant money pit. I just want a vehicle to get back and forth to school (20 miles/day), and out to the mountains for camping on the weekends.

Here are some pics, What am I getting myself into?

What should I do? Buy or not to Buy?

VA residents, am i going to run into problems getting the vehicle inspected?

What do you recommend in order to get this on the road as a DD?

Thanks In Advance!

Last edited:
If we are talking about the same one, I recently parted out a better truck than that. I would pass if you are even in his ballpark.

PM if you want.
Hello All,

But i dont want the purchase price to be a down payment on a giant money pit. I just want a vehicle to get back and forth to school (20 miles/day), and out to the mountains for camping on the weekends.

Here are some pics, What am I getting myself into?

Thanks In Advance!


I think this part of your post means that an old Land Cruiser is not for you. They ALL require money to keep on the road. If this is gonna be your ONLY vehicle then I recommend a better example FJ60 or even an 80 series over this 60. You're looking at a couple grand in repairs most likely just to get though inspection so you can use it. You should also know that these trucks get less than 15 mpg so driving back and forth to school isn't gonna be cheap. Won't even get into the cost of mods...

Good luck!
Haha, Yes i know there will be a continual outflow of cash on a cruiser. But I have driven small cars for far too long. For the mileage that I drive i estimate an additional $1000 per year in fuel as compared to a honda civic. I can justify that for the utility and the fact that I NEED something capable of getting into the woods for camping.

I can spend another $1k to put a vehicle in good running condition. I just dont want to sink another $5k into a vehicle that isnt worth it. I would rather just save up and put the money into a cruiser that is in better condition.

Thanks D'Animal,

That is what I needed to hear.

I will keep looking...

So disappointed...
It really depends on the price you can get it for and your skill level.

Rust does not bother me unless it is causing a rig too no longer be a sound vehicle. I scrapped on of my FI 60 rigs because the "A" pillars was rusted through.

If you are comfortable replacing the inner C channels and working with replacing the rust as a learning experience, this may be your rig.
If anyone is interested in that vehicle here is the Craigslist link.

1984 Toyota Land Cruiser Needs TLC

The owner seems like a good guy. And he wanted it gone so if you offered cash Im sure he would let it go for much less than the posted asking price.

I will continue the search.

Well my skill level dosent currently cover the frame rust repair. I only have a 110V mig welder and I wouldnt want to spend the coin on a professional repair.

There were 4 major things wrong:

Cooling system leaking from the radiator and valve cover
RUST on rear frame and body mounts were nearly gone in the rear
The Carb was acting up
Almost all driveline seals would need to be replaced

I think i could have handled the carb and the cooling system. I probably would have taken it to a mechanic for the seals. The rust may have even been doable but I will run out of time before I can reasonably take care of all 4.

Thanks for the advice.
You did the smart thing. Keep looking. There are better ones out there at reasonable prices. Hope you find one that you will enjoy. I doubt that you would have enjoyed the one you described.
I've seen alot worse for alot more, If you offered 400$ and he wanted 500$ i'd say go for it, has alot of potential. But if you offered 1500 and he wanted 1600$ that was a baaaad offer. My Chassis has alot more rust than that, 150 000 k more on the clock But it is a diesel and 5 speed so i figured that in the least i did have a great drivetrain if i found a clean gasser.

It all comes down to what you want to do with it and how much time you want to put in. Low k motor would fetch a couple bucks if the frame were to split in half. But don't worry that wont happen.

What did you offer if you dont mind me askin or did i miss that?
offered $800

$800 bones and i would have had to get it titled in my name so AAA can pick it up and tow it to me about 50 miles away.

One thing i forgot to mention is that there was a 3rd stick on the floor. it said "overdrive: In - Out" Im not sure of what that indicates as far as transmission/transfer case combo. Like i said im still really new to LC.

I get the feeling that there wouldnt be an insulting offer so perhaps someone else could snag it for parts.

Sounds like it has a Fairey Overdrive. Neat piece if it works but finding parts to fix them is a challenge. The entire rear half of the stock t-case is replaced with the O/D system. I would not pay extra for a truck that had one of those O/D systems myself.

where are you? i'm in Harrisonburg and there is a blue 60 for sale on 33 accross from the entrance to Massanutten Ski resort. He's asking 4000 which seems high, but he's had it for sale for a long time, could probably get it for less.
Way too much rust, I would pass... It is not what you pay for an LC that counts, it is what you want to achieve in the end that should be considered... eg, If you want a really clean restored truck someday, then, you are better off with a truck without rust and high mileage.... In my opinion, high mileage is easy to deal with, rust is not... Keep looking...
Run...don't walk from this one!
It's too bad he's not closer. I would buy it just for the interior pieces I need.

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom