gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
That is a dipstick probably for the engine. You have yours installed right? Should be right behind the distributor on the engine, passenger side.
Rusty quarter panel bubbles (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter CruiserAL
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- fj62 quarter panel rust
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Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
Are you missing your oil dip stickSo I did some digging, and you all were right. I got a ton of silty mud out of both QP's
I also found this in one of them.... Does anyone recognize what this might go to?
If I don't have the expertise, or money yet to truly do a good job repairing both sides, and resealing (I assume thats what y'all would do??)the pinch welds at the bottom, how should I treat the rust so that it doesn't get worse for the next couple years?
Thanks!
g-man
SILVER Star
Edited my post on body work steps. added two more steps.
- Thread starter
- #25
Due to the rust nature of the inside of my QP's is this fixable? or do you think I will need to just get new quarter panels and weld them in?
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Hard to tell from your photos... have you taken the paint down on the panels yet to see what the damage is? Really can't tell until you get in there. But main thing is that rust never sleeps, thus your best bet is to replaced the affected area completely. That means cutting a good 2" into good metal around the rust to ensure you get everything.
Apply oil or something like fluid film regularly should keep it a bay for a while.
g-man
SILVER Star
Agreed. Some oil sprayed down in the inside. And you won't know if you need to replace metal until you start grinding. But there are other ways to repair. If say you start grinding and you have an area the size of a baseball that is weak. You can cut it out with a grinder and a cutting wheel then fiberglass patch. Take fiberglass mat...hold it up to the hole and dab resin/hardener into the mat. Strengthen it by adding layers. You have to go 2 or 3 inches beyond the hole all around to bond to some good metal. You have to hold it for a few minutes until it sets up. Or if you have small pea size hole or even size of a quarter you can smear short strand fiberglass mat/hardener filler over the area. It dries really hard then you grind it down, sand with 80 and continue on. The main thing is to not leave any rust. Grind that stuff down to shiny metal. And if it gets too weak cut it out.
- Thread starter
- #30
Alright guys I spent some time grinding and there seems to be one problem spot on the face here:
And the underside here:
the plug had been painted over by a previous Owner.... Yikes...
Thoughts?
I think the underside will need to be cut out at some point, and I am going to continue to grind the spot on the face to check its strength.
Thanks for all of your help. I am a body work newb.
And the underside here:
the plug had been painted over by a previous Owner.... Yikes...
Thoughts?
I think the underside will need to be cut out at some point, and I am going to continue to grind the spot on the face to check its strength.
Thanks for all of your help. I am a body work newb.
g-man
SILVER Star
Keep grinding the pitted. If it ends up make a hole or looking like swiss cheese ...just cut out the weak metal until you have good solid metal you can't bend with your hands.
g-man
SILVER Star
BTW how cold is it in Oregon today? Are you working in a shop?
g-man
SILVER Star
Just in case you don't know...you can't work with filler or paint in the cold.
g-man
SILVER Star
Wait for warm weather to paint. You could just spray some cheap spray paint on it until warm weather ...then finish it. Filler doesn't set up that well either in cold. So you'll be waiting a while between coats.
Use gel rust remover, and brass cup brush on your grinder. It take a lot of re-coating on the rust remover to get the majority of it. But shockingly it does well. Or get an air compressor and some fine crushed glass, real fine. or Soda blast. It also gets it out.
Then use rust converter, and prime etc.
Don't use POR.
Look on the inside towards the wheel arches. Every cruiser rusts there. I'd use a krown oil, or rust check etc on the inside to slow it down. Every year if you spray it should hold it back. Oil is a good thing on rusty metal. It does stop/slow it right down.
Then use rust converter, and prime etc.
Don't use POR.
Look on the inside towards the wheel arches. Every cruiser rusts there. I'd use a krown oil, or rust check etc on the inside to slow it down. Every year if you spray it should hold it back. Oil is a good thing on rusty metal. It does stop/slow it right down.
As a reminder, if you use a grinder use a face shield. And safety glasses. You need both. Those wires come off like flying hypodemeric needles.
- Thread starter
- #38
I am having a hard time finding a place to actually buy rest check. Seems to be the best oil product out there. is that true?
I also like Krown oil. And LPS 2 and 3. Most auto parts stores have a variety of it. Rust Check in Canada has dealers to spray cars, but I can also find their products in our large hardware stores.
The picture of your QP underside is rust from the inside coming out. Mine was exactly like that ten years ago. I did a modification where I trimmed the QP shorter. It's pretty common.
My Rockers and my QP are rust right now too. So I am back in there.
The picture of your QP underside is rust from the inside coming out. Mine was exactly like that ten years ago. I did a modification where I trimmed the QP shorter. It's pretty common.
My Rockers and my QP are rust right now too. So I am back in there.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
That panel is actually in really good shape... Like @g-man said, grind down that area that you can see the rust has pitted. Either it will blow through or it will take it out. Once you get down past that stuff then just throw some primer on it and call it good until you can get some days that are above 55* for a majority of the day to paint.
