Rusty LC - worth it? (1 Viewer)

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Just looked at a local 93 with rusty undercarriage (a couple of pictures of the worst rust below). I'm in the NE obviously.

The good: under 150,000 miles; factory lockers; asking $3K; drives well; interior pretty good; one owner; recent repairs

The bad: fair bit of rust on parts of the undercarriage, though frame and floors look ok; birf soup so front axle needs re-sealing; so-so paint job after fender bender; AC doesn't work; rear brakes need to be done and emerg brake cable; tires will need replacing at some point

Engine and tranny seem strong, started it with rad cap off and no bubbling so likely no HG issues.

I would use this for driving to and from my cottage mainly, won't be a daily driver. I
figure I can fix it up in my garage (front axle, rear brakes) and try to slow down some of the rusting underneath. Get some years out of it.

Worth considering?


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Speaking from experience, it isn't worth it.

Imagine that just about every bolt you try to remove will need to be replaced at the least and most will break and need to be drilled out. By the time you total up the cost of parts and stuff to fix the rusted stuff, you might as well find a cleaner Cruiser for a couple grand more.
 
I don't live up north so you are much more used to rusty rigs than I am but I'd agree with the above sentiment that it wouldn't be worth it. The few times I've had frozen nuts/bolts that have broken off have been frustrating enough. I would dread working on that rig.
 
Take away the rust and that's a fair price.
 
FWIW Mine may be a little(only a little) less rusty and I got it for $1500. I have also sunk at least that into it in parts so far and I'm not half way done.
 
Even when I lived in NY, I bought my LC from New Mexico. Flew out and drove it home. Rust free before ALL else, the rust worm never sleeps and never goes away. EVERY SINGLE THING you try to work on will be a PIA on a truck like that, every nut just turns free on the desert truck I bought.
 
if your still considering it another area to check for rust is ps floor over the cat, that where my floor has gotten crunchy, and the rear heater lines are prone to rot out.
 
Thanks guys, yeah I know rust ain't fun. Been there done that. It's funny, I see 60 series LC's up here selling for unGodly amounts (at least, that's what they ASK for). Of course, up here in Canada these older 60's (rust buckets if there ever were some) have the allure of having either the 4 or 6 cyl diesel engines. So compared to those rusted out or fixed up old 60's (the rust always comes back), I figured this 80 might be worth picking up at a cheap price. But that would need wrenching, and taming that rust to a certain degree. Rust CAN be tamed on chassis parts, I bought a low mileage (less than 60k) Dodge 3/4 cummins a few years ago owned by an old man, and the underneath was covered with rust everywhere. He would drive it out every couple of weeks in the winter salt, and let it sit there. I wire brushed it, put rust-proofing oils here and there, and had it sprayed with rust-proofing 2-3 times and the metal looked much better. I was thinking of doing the same to this LC. Of course it would never look like a New Mexico truck.
Well, maybe I'll go take another look at it, and look at some trouble spots more carefully, and REALLY think about it before deciding to take it off his hands. I suppose by the time I baseline the front axle and rear brakes, and deal with other issues, I'd be in it that much more money. But that would be the same for any old LC, rust or not.
 
I bought mine at a good price (Minnesota) and because it has working lockers but it has rust in the rear quarter where the subwoofer is and near the drivers side rear door. I was thinking I could just weld in some new pieces from a donor but like other say it's not just about the cosmetics of rust it's the hassle of everything breaking and falling apart when you try to repair it.
Now I am looking for a southern, rust free vehicle around NM or AZ. I found some but wonder how big a trade off is when they don't have lockers.
Dilemma.
 
This L/C needs some serious attention to the rear brake lines as well, Pass rear Is close to exploding In one area and bad rust In several others. I have seen these where the entire e-brake system from the Inside handle to the shoes need replaced because rust has compromised each component beyond functionality at some point. You will need all brackets bolts lines couplers and anything attached to the brake lines because they will break, or be worthless. These photos actually show only a part of what could need to be done. Now, You can do this but If they won't come down to a very low price your gonna wish you had not moved on It and still may wish you had not If your short on torch and grinder experience. It wouldn't work for me even for a grand, but I have seen some young guys make It look easy. Not cheap, but easy. I know Its hard to find nice cruisers where you live. Good Luck.!
 
Yeah the rear brakes would be a bitch to repair-replace given condition of the hardware etc. The handbrake cable apparently has failed and needs replacement so that wouldn't be fun either.
Even though the price is attractive (could be had for $2k) for a running LC with solid drivetrain, good interior and decent body, I have to be mindful of my aversion for rusted chassis and my abilities to deal with that at my age (not a young man any more). So I'll pass on it.
Thanks for your thoughts and advice, I appreciate them.
 
Truck sold before I had a chance to tell the seller I was passing on it. So it goes...
Not everyone in these parts it seems, is as picky about rust under a truck...
I had looked at a LX450 a couple of months ago that had more mileage, more wear and tear, and sold for more than this. Seller was told that it was being shipped to Africa, so maybe the same buyer-shipper bought this LX for same purpose.
Oh well, the right one will come along some day (I'm not the type to fly down to New Mexico and drive one back, I don't need a rust-free LC that bad!).
 
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