Rusty bolt (body) extraction (1 Viewer)

[ramangain]

Folks,

As the "skidplates" come on and off for maintenance and fixes, slowly but surely the rusty 12mm bolts that hold on the hardware have started snapping. I'm up to three now where the bolt body is stuck in the threads. I finally got around to getting some new bolts for the holes that are OK.

What is your favorite extraction tool and technique to remove the bolts that hold the "skidplates" if the bolt head has sheared off? I don't have heat or compressed air to help, but I sure do have strong power tools.

Thanks in advance

 

[Mike NXP]

Folks,

As the "skidplates" come on and off for maintenance and fixes, slowly but surely the rusty 12mm bolts that hold on the hardware have started snapping. I'm up to three now where the bolt body is stuck in the threads. I finally got around to getting some new bolts for the holes that are OK.

What is your favorite extraction tool and technique to remove the bolts that hold the "skidplates" if the bolt head has sheared off? I don't have heat or compressed air to help, but I sure do have strong power tools.

Thanks in advance

With the skidplate removed do you have any meat to grab onto the remaining bolt?

 

[ramangain]

On two of them, no. The 3rd may have a mm at most of material outside of the threads.

Me stuck. Me need the right tools. Me need MUD wizardry.

 

[YotaWagon]

You could try using a left handed drill bit in reverse. I've used the technique successfully, but with a rusty bolt it might not work well. I'd recommend soaking in something like PBlaster before attempting.

 

[MJK]

Generic advice:
Heat and penetrant are good. Antiseize next time.
If you can access the stud from the front or back side, double nut it or weld a nut on. 1mm might be weldable.
If it is broken sub-flush, reverse drill bits/easy outs might work.
Worst case is drill and tap one size up.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

This cheap little kit has worked well for me.

RYOBI Spiral Screw Extractor Set (5-Piece) A96SE51 - The Home Depot

RYOBI introduces the 5-Piece Steel Spiral Screw Extractor Set. This is the perfect solution for removing screws and bolts. This extractor set features black oxide threads for longer life and performance

www.homedepot.com

 

[KFunk740]

For other such jobs, I use left handed cobalt drill bits and straight flute extractors. Twisty extractors are s***, and bite in too much and then the thin metal snaps, then you’ve got a stupid broken extractor stuck.
I have not yet removed my skid plate, as the first bolt I tried snapped, and suspect every one of them will snap. Yeah, soaking in a 50:50 mix of acetone and atf is the best bolt loosener, but even that doesn’t work miracles. Those particular bolts are thin rusty assholes that snap easy.
I’ll extract all of mine someday, but not today. I’ll just take alternator out the top when I need to, hah.

 

[Scoin]

I just did this Monday, tried an extraction kit with left handed bits. I soaked them in pb blaster every day for a week, went slow and used cutting oil, the bit still broke. I ended up drilling them out and re-tapping, which was faster than the time I spent on the first bolt.

 

[MJK]

 

[ramangain]

^ touché mi amigo

 

[Scoin]

Used one of those bfh's to center punch each bolt and center my chi.

 

[hickuptruck]

Drill out and retap.

Keep it simple.

 

[abuck99]

Cobalt drill bits will get the job done-Use anti-seize on the new hardware moving forward.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Drill out and retap.

Keep it simple.

Do dis. Extractors will break and make it worse, unfortunately. Center punch, drill and retap.

 

[ohuj100]

I had the same issue. PB blast soak and Irwin Extractor bits worked for me. You just have to be cautious to get the center. Center punch helps! Left hand drill bits were worthless imo.

 

[MJK]

Worst case is drill and tap one size up.

Turns out this is not true, as Karma has recently proven to me.

I was swapping out some o2 sensors in some stainless headers a couple days ago, and snapped them off during removal. Heat, PB Blaster, extractors and reverse drill bits did nothing but delay the inevitable. Ended up having to pull all sorts of $#!+ off to remove both headers, grind off the old bungs, and now need to get some new bungs TIG'ed on. And yes, they had anti-seize on them when installed. If drilling and tapping does it, BE HAPPY.

Back to your regularly scheduled programming.

 

[ramangain]

Wait, BOTH O2 sensors snapped off? Darn dude, your mild tuneup turned into a nightmare.

Just watch some Cobra Kai and your world will improve, one way or the other. Or Borat.

 

[MJK]

Yep. I even pulled the second bank off so I could try and remove it on the bench, with heat, 1/2" drive 22 m socket, etc. PING. Followed by a loud and long stream of colorful language. They are currently in the back of the LX waiting on a trip to the TIG shop.

I had to take the whole back end of the car apart to get them out. On the bright side, I preventatively replaced a perfectly good oil pan gasket while I was in there. And I might polish the exhaust since I had to take it all out anyways.

 

[ramangain]

^ Just to let folks know, this is on an "old Honda" product that has its engine in the middle. It is not an LC/LX