Rusted out fender. Fix or replace? (1 Viewer)

[DKM]

Still chipping away at this 78. Taking a turn toward this fender, other fender is much better. I'd rather fix than replace this fender. Anyone have any tips on how to tackle this? Decent metal and welding skills, just looking for some pointers. OR...not worth the time, just search for a replacement? Thanks fellas.

 

[1969FJ]

Anything can be fixed. The amount of time would be a deal breaker for me. New fenders are available. I would go that route. The basic steel used in 1978 for Toyota was recycled steel, and rusted out a lot more than early ones.

 

[macdaddy59]

Purchase a new one you will be way ahead in terms of cost and time.

 

[TEakins]

If you are keeping it for the next 25 years go with aluminum. Oxidation happens...especially to steel.

 

[Pierps]

Yeah, you probably have pretty bad rust under your turn signals as well.

I agree- replace. That is going to be a lot of time investment. That said, I've also read a lot of bad reviews on the aftermarket fenders- bad alignment and a lot of rework needed.

bought a new OEM set from a guy on this forum in Germany. Crazy expensive, but sure saved me a lot of time. Looks like he's still selling them. Mine came well packaged and in great shape.

For Sale - OEM 40 fenders

Thanks for asking. New OEM fenders are in stock. The shipping lead times are almost back to normal - delivery time for standard international shipping to the US will be roughly 3-4 weeks. Due to the global economic and pandemic situation prices for shipping and protection material as wood and...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[h82crash]

Mine wasn't rusted as bad. I removed the support bracket, blasted everything, cut out the rusted sheetmetal, fit and welded in new 18 ga, epoxy primed all areas that would be sandwiched, and welded the bracket back in. It wasn't too difficult. BTW, even though the passenger side was in good shape, I removed the bracket so I could de-rust and prime for posterity. While at it, I made a filler patch for the hole where the steering box used to be.

I don't think Toyota put much into coating anything to prevent corrosion. It only has to last through the warranty period.

As far as new ones go, I used to wonder why so many 40s had their front fenders slant down toward the front. Then I learned of the fitment issues.

I get it, time is money. But, if you're going out and writing checks for crazy expensive stuff to save time, just buy a 40 already finished.

 

[Living in the Past]

If you are keeping it for the next 25 years go with aluminum. Oxidation happens...especially to steel.

Certain regions of the country steel is find. It's obvious what happen here. The channel got plugged with dirt and was washed out. Dirt hold moisture and the fender rusted from the inside out. Skin of the fender is thinner than the support channel which is It's not gone yet. I have a few sixty year old cruisers with solid not rusted fenders. Wish I could say the same for the rear sill.

 

[swixtt]

Can you get Al ones in the right shape? Mine aren’t.

 

[h82crash]

Can you get Al ones in the right shape? Mine aren’t.

Nope. Front edge is open on Aqualu. Only one I know of.

 

[White Stripe]

Nope. Front edge is open on Aqualu. Only one I know of.

The open fenders was a long time ago. Current aqualu fenders look near oem.

 

[TEakins]

My Aqualu fenders are open at the front, but I bought them 18 years ago in 2004. The ones back then were such a difficult fit that even Cruiser Solutions used factory steel fenders on their restorations. I would hope that in addition to making them curved correctly in the front they have improved the fit, also. BTW, there is no rust yet.

 

[Comet]

I am a hack. I am repairing as much as possible on mine. Yes, it is a time suck but so is sitting in a bar talking sports. I’d rather hear the sizzle of bacon (sound of a good weld) than the UPS guy making my dog bark when he shows up with the replacement fender. Either option is acceptable and the replacement fender would look a whole lot better than what my skills currently supports.

CAD design (cardboard aided drafting) 18 gauge sheet metal blank. Hobart Handler 140 with gas. Harbor Freight clamps. The need to take more time in between each weld as to not warp the metal.

 

[middlecalf]

I’d rather hear the sizzle of bacon (sound of a good weld) than the UPS guy making my dog bark when he shows up with the replacement fender.

That made my day!

 

[h82crash]

I am a hack. I am repairing as much as possible on mine. Yes, it is a time suck but so is sitting in a bar talking sports. I’d rather hear the sizzle of bacon (sound of a good weld) than the UPS guy making my dog bark when he shows up with the replacement fender. Either option is acceptable and the replacement fender would look a whole lot better than what my skills currently supports.

CAD design (cardboard aided drafting) 18 gauge sheet metal blank. Hobart Handler 140 with gas. Harbor Freight clamps. The need to take more time in between each weld as to not warp the metal.

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It appears you may already do this, but for others, stagger your welds. You wont have to do much waiting for cooling. I'll do a single spot, move to the other side and weld a spot, go back to the first side down 2 inches and weld another, etc. Then go back to the first and weld a spot connected to it. The welding isn't too bad, it's the grinding that takes forever. Also, I try to have zero gap and use the clamps in my patch photo, although that is a lap joint. Zero gap butt joint attached.

 

[bikersmurf]

I’d repair it if the inner fender was 1/2 decent. If you also need to Repair the inner fenders, the turn signal mount, and a few other areas, spring for better fenders.