Rust reversal theory and how to sandblast? (1 Viewer)

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Although the 1st pic is ugly, he said it was just surface rust & she was in great shape so I am psyched to get this preventative maintenance done now vs trying to fix something when it's too late. I think I will remove the LX450 cladding next and weld the holes and do a liner at that same height.
 
$600?!?!?!

My 80s aren't even rusty but I'd pay that just to have them look that pretty! Where the hell are you located?!??
 
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nigelsiam said:
Maybe we can get a 2 for 1 deal if I bring mine too? ;)
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I'll bring mine too.

I couldn't even find a company that would do the work unless I removed the body, which ain't happening. I just gave up on sand blasting mine and decided to just use oil and the wire wheel. I am thinking about getting a needle scaler, but I am not sure if I have enough air to do that right either.
 
@mickeyt what do you even look under to find a place that does this? Was it a sandblasting company or a body shop?
 
Red Merle said:
I

I'll bring mine too.

I couldn't even find a company that would do the work unless I removed the body, which ain't happening. I just gave up on sand blasting mine and decided to just use oil and the wire wheel. I am thinking about getting a needle scaler, but I am not sure if I have enough air to do that right either.
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I have a friend that has a lift in Sturgeon Lake and think I will start doing this to mine: Wire wheel, some media blasting, hard work and fluid film or something similar. If there is ANY rust on these and we drive it in the winter with all this salty sludge they just disintegrate.
 
nigelsiam said:
I have a friend that has a lift in Sturgeon Lake and think I will start doing this to mine: Wire wheel, some media blasting, hard work and fluid film or something similar. If there is ANY rust on these and we drive it in the winter with all this salty sludge they just disintegrate.
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Let me know on that. I am willing to bring cash and beer.

As for the winters, I am a believer in either Fluid Film or bar chain oil. The oil works but you have to use it more. It is 1/4 of the price though so it doesn't matter. I drive my trucks in the winter up here and my Tacoma is still completely rust free after 5 winters. The LC had rust problems, but I have drastically improved the situation by shooting oil or sheep lanolin all over everything underneath and replacing a bunch of stuff that was too far gone. Just soaking everything in oil has made working on my truck more like working on a rust free truck because it soaks into the threads of all of the treated bolts.
 
One of the other NE mudders on this thread used this company in CT that does bridges and such, not sure if that is where @mickeyt went or not.
Home

I've been driving to NH to get oil undercoating done here https://nhoilundercoating.com and can attest it is an efficient remedy as long as you don't mind getting covered in oil anytime you get under your rig.

Debating a trip to CT before the winter or one more oil coating in NH and knock this out next spring.
 
I can report that it's been a year + sine blast all did my truck and I've had no resurgence of rustiness.
 
srf18 said:
One of the other NE mudders on this thread used this company in CT that does bridges and such, not sure if that is where @mickeyt went or not.
Home

I've been driving to NH to get oil undercoating done here https://nhoilundercoating.com and can attest it is an efficient remedy as long as you don't mind getting covered in oil anytime you get under your rig.

Debating a trip to CT before the winter or one more oil coating in NH and knock this out next spring.
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That is some good stuff. I went to "The Rust Stop" in Concord NH and got their "Rustoration" done on my Tacoma. (wire wheel, acid prep, rust preventative paint then the NH oil undercoat) Only put 1 winter on it but it held up really well for that winter... no rust came up. Plus, they offer a lifetime warranty on their work, as long as you fluid film (NH Oil coat of course) with them every year. They charged $600 for the initial year, then re-filming is about $100 a year. Not having to use a torch every time I loosen a bolt makes it worth it to me. I'll be doing my cruiser there this year.
 
Lumpskie said:
That is some good stuff. I went to "The Rust Stop" in Concord NH and got their "Rustoration" done on my Tacoma. (wire wheel, acid prep, rust preventative paint then the NH oil undercoat) Only put 1 winter on it but it held up really well for that winter... no rust came up. Plus, they offer a lifetime warranty on their work, as long as you fluid film (NH Oil coat of course) with them every year. They charged $600 for the initial year, then re-filming is about $100 a year. Not having to use a torch every time I loosen a bolt makes it worth it to me. I'll be doing my cruiser there this year.
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I agree. I do it myself though. You can get a cheap spray gun from HF, a cheap 20 gallon compressor off CL and gallon of Fluid Film for probably $150 total. The gallon of Fluid Film should be good for about 5-6 applications or you could just use bar chain oil, which is what I use now. It works really well as long as you keep using it and the same is true for Fluid Film. The best part is being able to remove fasteners without snapping them but knowing that your rig isn't going to rust away makes it easier to swallow putting money into it for other maintenance jobs.
 
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