boozewz
SILVER Star
Rust repair and overall upgrades (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kev60
- Start date
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Power windows worked occasionally on a truck I used to own. Turned out to be the wiring harness. The opening and closing of the door eventually caused a break in one off the wires. If I was lucky, the wire would make contact and my windows worked. I eventually cut open the harness and soldered the break together. Taped the harness back up and was good to go.
Another possibility could be the connector. Possibly the connector is getting enough of a tug when you open the tailgate that it closes the circuit. The fix might be as easy as cleaning the contacts and using dielectric grease before reconnecting the harness.
I'm leaning towards the harness having a break at the bend where the tailgate opens/closes as opposed to the connector being corroded.
kev60
TLCA Member:23722
- Thread starter
- #43
I am actually just getting started cutting this section out. I looked at trying to get replacement panels or anything for it but I decided to just cut it all out and then just do my best to form it so it half way matches the contour of the rest of the floor. I am not to worried about since it will be covered by carpet and a seat so I just want it sealed more than looking pretty. Once I am finished with it I will put up some photos.
kev60
TLCA Member:23722
- Thread starter
- #45
In need of some opinions on what seats to get. I know a lot of guys on here like putting bmw seats in 60's but I would rather just have a replacement seat that can bolt straight onto the original brackets. I was told that smittybuilt contour sport seats bolt right on and the look pretty good. Are there any other seats that bolt right on to the original brackets and has anyone ever used these seats before?
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
I have some 2015 Jeep JK seats and only had to drill two holes in the seat base for the passenger side.
To the OP, your avatar cracked me up
kev60
TLCA Member:23722
- Thread starter
- #49
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Lift, wheel and tire sizes? Seems like there is still a LOT of room with the 35s.. I would personally smack out the fenders some so it wont rub vs. cut them. No SOA, too high and questionable DD.
kev60
TLCA Member:23722
- Thread starter
- #51
I believe I have a four inch lift that was done from the previous owner and the wheels are 17's with 35*12.5 tires on them. And yes there's tons of room all I had to do was take off the front mud flaps and those only rubbed when turned all the way out. I also have two inch spacers on. And yeah smacking them out would be way better option. Okay yeah I agree with no SOA my buddies have been pushing me towards it and I agree to unstable.
mcguirejohnson
SILVER Star
A SOA w/ the right shocks & corrected castor rides way better than a Sua rig imo. Ya the height sucks, but there are remedies for that. Sua rigs with lift springs (anything over a standard 2.5" ome) are just flat out too harsh over bumps and don't yield the same performance off-road. You could make yours soa and only go up say an inch compared to your current pictures.
But if your a wise man, you'd take the money to be spent on a different leaf spring setup and invest in a fzj-80 suspension/ frame/ axles.. Coils are just way better. That's what I'm doing anyways after going through 3 leaf sprung variations: 2.5"/ 4-5" Shackle Reversal/ then currently SOA. So basically I was am not a wise man after spending all of that $$.
Regardless, your rig looks great, keep it up!
**Edit** Also, too add to what I said about SOA setups being street worthy, I drove mine from TX-CA and from TX all over CO & Wyoming multiple times. Fully loaded down for 2 week trips, hiking gear, food, etc. And even driving in the winter in CO it did great. Great shocks and good leaf springs are the key though.
But if your a wise man, you'd take the money to be spent on a different leaf spring setup and invest in a fzj-80 suspension/ frame/ axles.. Coils are just way better. That's what I'm doing anyways after going through 3 leaf sprung variations: 2.5"/ 4-5" Shackle Reversal/ then currently SOA. So basically I was am not a wise man after spending all of that $$.
Regardless, your rig looks great, keep it up!
**Edit** Also, too add to what I said about SOA setups being street worthy, I drove mine from TX-CA and from TX all over CO & Wyoming multiple times. Fully loaded down for 2 week trips, hiking gear, food, etc. And even driving in the winter in CO it did great. Great shocks and good leaf springs are the key though.
kev60
TLCA Member:23722
- Thread starter
- #54
Thanks man it's been a lot of work! And one big question I have about SOA is would I have to extend drive lines and brake lines? And I would definetly love to go the 80 frame way but where I am at in life there is about no possible way for me to do that right now. But yeah I can see how it could ride nicer with SOA if done properly.
*Also update with the 35's I got a severe death wobble only going to 35 so I took them off to solve my steering problems before I break anything.
*Also update with the 35's I got a severe death wobble only going to 35 so I took them off to solve my steering problems before I break anything.
mcguirejohnson
SILVER Star
Yes to both questions. The key is to find 2 pre- 85 fj60 front driveshafts and have them lengthened to utilize the Double Cardan joint. I think I have about $250 in my driveshafts ($200 to have them lengthened/ balanced) Brake lines can be bought off a vendor and are fairly cheap.
I recommend taking the time to find someone local with a SOA 60 and see if you can at least go for a ride-a-long. Real world experience trumps internet research ten fold. Point is, don't listen to the opinions of those who haven't graduated from an Old man emu setup..
-McGuire
I recommend taking the time to find someone local with a SOA 60 and see if you can at least go for a ride-a-long. Real world experience trumps internet research ten fold. Point is, don't listen to the opinions of those who haven't graduated from an Old man emu setup..
-McGuire
kev60
TLCA Member:23722
- Thread starter
- #57
Right before I bought the bullet on a new rear bumper I got offered a free one off an old ford pickup and it worked out great! I had to cut three inches of each end with a plasma cutter (which I have never ran before) so the second cut was way better than the first. Which then made welding it way harder but it all worked out in the end. I also did some frame work in the back and covered it in some undercoating. It's supposed to be an air tank but my welds where not quite air tight but I have a way to deal with this. Anyway it was a hard two days of work but an excellent learning experience!! Here are some pictures of it all! 
cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
the cross ditch queen.
kev60
TLCA Member:23722
- Thread starter
- #59
kev60
TLCA Member:23722
- Thread starter
- #60
Update: I recently been focusing on drivetrain repairs and getting all the parts and pieces I will need to finally finish and paint the cruiser. After a long season of combining I will have the next two months off and will hopefully just be living in the shop making it brand new again. I will post lots of pictures in the coming weeks.
