Rust Protection! (1 Viewer)

[Kaoscruizer]

Hi to all!!

Talked to a good buddy of mine in the antique car business. He tells me that this product is kick ass in terms of a rust preventative .. ordered it today.

From what I can gather, it is easy to apply, durable, flexable and will not allow moisture to enter under it since it bonds well and will not readily chip, crack or peel. This buddy of mine applied it to the the underside of his '67 vette and trusts it implicitly. I will let everyone here know how mine turns out.

Here is where to find it and order it:

https://canada-por15.hostasaurus.com/index.htm


;p

 

[Greg_B]

Do a search of the whole site. There is lots of information on it. I have used it and it seems to be holding up well. As for easy to put on...it is all in the prep, which can be very time consuming. If the prep is not correctly it will simply peel off.

hth's

gb

 

[Kaoscruizer]

Hey Greg .. got any prep tips? I did read the site, but if you have already done it and noted any specific issues with regards to either prep or application, I would sure appreciate a heads up!! Did you spray it on or brush it?

J

 

[knorrena]

I have used por15 too, and it does take quite a bit of prep time. It will not adhere to new metal without treatment (roughing up) or if there are any hydrocarbons present on the metal. It brushes on. I would not spray it on anything because it hardens in the presence of water or humidity. Dont get it on you anywhere as it does not come off and apply it outside inder dry conditions as water makes it harden faster. Also it gets a grey oxidized layer when subjected to uv. I also have a can of eastwoods rust encapsulator, but I have not yet used it.

Karl

 

[Gold Boy]

I have had succsess with this line of products http://www.rustcheck.com/ you can get them at crappy tire

GB

 

[crushers]

me, i love the krown stuff. the the guy doing the application does a proper job it really works.
very common down east...

 

[Kaoscruizer]

Where is this guy located Wayne ... Cowtown? Does he have a website with info?

 

[crushers]

i have not had time to use the guy here in town, i used the guy in Ontario and he was FANTASTIC, definate old school attention to detail, excellent guy to work with.
once i break this flu bug i got a couple rigs i want to take to this guy intown and see if he is as consciencious
cheers

 

[Greg_B]

Hey Greg .. got any prep tips? I did read the site, but if you have already done it and noted any specific issues with regards to either prep or application, I would sure appreciate a heads up!! Did you spray it on or brush it? J

They have it pretty well covered in their documentation. Read it and be anal about following it. I brushed it, in numerous coats...waiting for the right moment. This would change dependant on how much moisture was in the air. Spraying this stuff is supposed to be bad for you...unless you are well protected.

gb

 

[Tapage]

anyone here use the Wurth rust product .. ?

 

[Jim_Hbar]

Hmmm......I've never seen a rusty 'Vette body!!

(sorry, I couldn't resist ...)

But the odd frame has been terrible!

 

[Kaoscruizer]

I guess I should have been more specific and said frame instead of underside .. really didn't think that underside would be misconstrued as body (I always thought the body was on top .. silly me). That's ok .. after all, you are from BC.

Yet another dude that didn't graduate from the Derek Zoolander School for Kids that don't read good ...

 

[bigbrowndog]

Its one of the few things that are available here that you N.A. guys talk about. I questioned the store about it when I bought the 2 pac paint to spray a Corolla Seca. The guy an ex painter [as spray painter] said it is good but only as good as the application , the instructions need to be followed exactly. I asked will it stand up to long distances at speed on gravel or dirt roads like west of here. He said he could not honestly answer that. This usually takes the truck back to near bare metal like sandblasting. Any input here? For inside doors etc I usually use fisholeen and Valvoline Tectyl 506. cheers.

 

[Kaoscruizer]

Its one of the few things that are available here that you N.A. guys talk about. I questioned the store about it when I bought the 2 pac paint to spray a Corolla Seca. The guy an ex painter [as spray painter] said it is good but only as good as the application , the instructions need to be followed exactly. I asked will it stand up to long distances at speed on gravel or dirt roads like west of here. He said he could not honestly answer that. This usually takes the truck back to near bare metal like sandblasting. Any input here? For inside doors etc I usually use fisholeen and Valvoline Tectyl 506. cheers.

I don't know Dog, but from what I understand, this POR-15 stuff is VERY durable. You could always apply it and see how it stands up .. redo it if you have to. I think that applying it and having to redo it is far better than applying NOTHING at all. I have a pretty much rust free frame at this point .. I would love to keep it that way!

 

[crushers]

I don't know Dog, but from what I understand, this POR-15 stuff is VERY durable. You could always apply it and see how it stands up .. redo it if you have to. I think that applying it and having to redo it is far better than applying NOTHING at all. I have a pretty much rust free frame at this point .. I would love to keep it that way!

POR will not bond to itself after the first coat has hardened. you would have to try and grind or sand blast back down to bare metal...

 

[Kaoscruizer]

Really!

That sucks Wayne .. From what people that have used it tell me, it should hold up pretty well. I think I am gonna give it a try anyway. Gonna spend alot of time ensuring that it is prepped properly and hope for the best. My cruiser is only going to see limited wheeling anyway. Thanks for the info Wayne.

 

[crushers]

agreed, prep is everthing and a proper mask is important unless you want a buzz that gives you a serious headache...

 

[brownbear]

its awful to spray and b-itch to clean the gun after.......uuuugh.

you need a very good respirator. I did it with an organic vapour sytle respirator and still found myself getting some effects.

I am coating my entire truck in it. With mucho prep. it likes lots of "tooth" so they say. Rough is good. Cause this stuff flows smooth.

It can be applied ontop of itself. But you have to rough the surface of the orginal hardened coat. say 36 grit.

When I continue to apply from now on I am using a rollar on fenders and brush in other areas. It can be sanded smooth after, then tie coat primed(which is a high build primer) then a finish sand before using conventional topcoats.

Although I am not looking for a show car. Just a rust proofing to some degree Toyota never knew how to offer.

Either way every single surface under and inside will be oiled heavily. Krown or LPS3....stinky.

 

[Previa Diesel]

The British Land Rover guys used to swear by Hammerite paint and Waxoyl. So after we're done with the LR jokes...

http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/rustproof.htm

http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/techstuff3text.htm

www.hammerite-automotive.com


Not sure where you can get it here in NA.

Phosphating, sometimes called 'Parkerizing" leaves a phosphate crystal deposit bonded to the surface of the metal. Almost any paint put/sprayed on top soaks into the crystalline structure and becomes damn near impossible to get off. Phospating is usually done in a boiling tank of solution for 10 or 20 minutes, so not sure how well cold solutions work. I ordered a bottle of the POR-15 Metal Prep once and found it pretty useless, but it's so long ago, I can't be sure the problem wasn't my way of using it.

 

[Greg_B]

Phosphating, sometimes called 'Parkerizing" leaves a phosphate crystal deposit bonded to the surface of the metal. Almost any paint put/sprayed on top soaks into the crystalline structure and becomes damn near impossible to get off.

This is exactly what I had done to the firewall, hood and side plates on my BJ42...for the exact reasons you say. Twas not cheap.

When I was on my search for the best rust proofing liquid a few years back I read nothing but good about Waxoyl. Not easy to get in North America at the time, perhaps due to contents and shipping regulations? I could never find out why. Perhaps availability has changed. I also found some websites that detailed how to make your own (mineral spirits, wax and turpentine was one brew).

I did find a good product that could be sprayed with rust proofing misting guns. It is 3M Rust Fighter II, available in aerosol or liquid pint containers. Boeshield is another, however it a little thin. I now create a witches brew of Rust Fighter II, Boeshield to thin it down, and then mix in some Fluid Film for good measure.

Brownbear has mentioned some other products that are used in aviation to creep, coat and prevent oxidation in the cavities of airplanes. I've no experience with any of them, but they sound interesting.

I know we have discussed all this before, and part numbers and names are on a thread or two, but a quick search resulted in nothing...perhaps they are buried now.

Simply the act of cleaning, inspecting and spraying once a year (with whatever product you decide on) will likely do a world of good.

hth's

gb