Rust proofing with cosmoline (1 Viewer)

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Worked wonders for keeping soviet rifles rust free for decades.
 
80 dollars a gallon when i imagine ill be spraying around two gallons in getting pricy. I guess thats why im asking about pure cosmoline, and possibly adding my own thinners or heating it up in order to get it flowing.


If I read it right Cosmoline was right about the same price.





I found this comparison test on a well known boating site. Of the products tested LPS #3 and CRC Corrosion Inhibitor scored best.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/sportfishing-charters-forum/123560-test-corrosion-inhibitor-sprays.html






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Glad you responded. This may be the best and cheapest option for me. Any word on the difference between their "rust veto 342 and their rust veto 344"? The rust veto 344 specifically says that you should be able to spray though a pump sprayer, the rust veto 342 doesnt. But, the way they describe the 342 make it sound like thats the better rust proofing for undercoating vehicles.
Funny you should ask....so I purchased the Rust Veto 342 and my buddy purchased the Rust Veto 344 for our undercarriages. My informal comparison between the two Cosmoline products: Both come in the form of a thick liquid that could be sprayed. My buddy was a little concerned that it was too thick so he spoke to their product support who told him both products could be thinned with any solvent if we wanted. We opted to spray as is and had no problems. The Rust Veto 344 (Cosmoline Black) is asphaltic based and quickly dried to a hard plastic-like coating, but still had some good give/flexibility. The 342 (Industrial grade Cosmoline) also sprayed on nice and easy without any heating or thinning. This product is petroleum/wax based and took a little longer to dry then the 344 but left behind a nice strong amber coating that I'm confident is going to stand up to at least a handful of winters. Between the 2 products, both are going to give you exceptional protection. Again, the 344 will dry faster, but both products allow for give/flexibility which is important. I'd go with whatever product is cheaper. I know some others have mentioned some other products and they may work great, but for me personally I will always go with good ol' dependable Cosmoline! It's never let me down.
 
Thats exactly what id ideally like to buy, but the waxoyl stuff is kinda expensive. I like the german made sprayer they sell on their site too. The wand is perfect for blowing all the rust proofing up into the inner pannels

I bought my truck in Albuquerque and am also trying to find the best way to rust-protect (rust-proof seems wishful).

I'm not familiar with spray hardware, but since it's a once-a-year process maybe we can group-buy something like the Waxoyl setup and share it (I live in NYC so anyone in the tri-state is close enough for me). I'd def consider that, their sprayer looks really handy. Will continue watching this thread for consensus on the best method but I'm open to split one of these options, at least the hardware. Might work for one of the clubs, like GCLC, I'll check them next.

J
 
Going with Fluid Film this year, Zoro tools for $37.67 http://www.zoro.com/i/G3706507/

added some coated gloves, 11 pair @ 1.16 http://www.zoro.com/i/G4521002/ always use these and cheaper than any store around

Got total to just over $50 to get free shipping then used code dontforget to knock off $5, total delivered after tax $48.47

A tad more than my mineral oil but seeing some the results from other MUD members convinced me to give it a go.

Hopefully have it before the weekend so I can get it done before the salt Nazi's are deployed!
 
I purchased the Fluid Film kit on Ebay with spray gun for $65 shipped.
I will chime in with how it works.
I have not read/watched (YouTube) anything Negative about FF
Some guys say to drill holes for spray access, others say it is pointless.
I think either is fine.
I'm going to double boiler haet mine just to get it to flow nice.
Ohio winters will be a true test of how it holds up in Salt.
 
Found this how-to video for applying Waxoil, some good tips for whatever product
you end up using IMHO.



Another about why not to drill holes for access:

 
It was a beautiful day yesterday so I had a Fluid Film spray party. I did 4 80 Series, 1 FJ62, and my M416 trailer.
I laid out plastic drop cloths over my driveway with scraps of wood to keep them in place and set up 4 ramps. I put on my Tyvek suit and went to work.
The cheap spray gun from Amazon worked like a dream and I was going through about 1/2 gallon per truck. I sprayed anything and everything starting from the inside of the front bumpers to the rear. I made certain that the entire frame was covered as well as the underside of the body panels. Got axles, suspension, brake baking plates, all up into the wheel wells, etc. Took about 30 minutes of spraying for each truck including refilling the gun.
I got some crazy looks as I was driving around town. The truck was smoking pretty badly as the overspray was burning off the exhaust manifold, but it only lasts a little while.

It took years off my old 80. Turned it right into an FJ62.

FF80.jpg

FF62.jpg
 
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Nice.

After a bunch of research I decided on FF as well. Bought the starter kit on Amazon.

They say 1 gal should be enough to do 2 vehicles. I'm hoping that is true and it will be sufficient for my LX and the Wife's Forester.

Planning on doing this every fall.

At roughly $40 per gallon that will be $20 per year per veh, not bad.
 
The cheap spray gun from Amazon worked like a dream

Can you link it? I searched for one on amazon but couldn't find it other than with a kit.

thanks!
 
Cosmoline was designed to protect metal during storage. I suppose it would work, but it may wear off in time. I don't know much about Fluid Film, but from what I've read a lot of people are happy with it. One downside is that it must be reapplied regularly. One product I'm most intrigued about is ceramic insulation. It's a paint, or even paint additive, but forget Lizard Skin, it's ridiculously overpriced. Hy-Tech is one (I'm sure there are more) and it only has to be applied once.
 
Nice.

After a bunch of research I decided on FF as well. Bought the starter kit on Amazon.

They say 1 gal should be enough to do 2 vehicles. I'm hoping that is true and it will be sufficient for my LX and the Wife's Forester.

Planning on doing this every fall.

At roughly $40 per gallon that will be $20 per year per veh, not bad.
I bought 3 gallons. I did 5 trucks and my M416 in and out and have an unopened gallon and about a pint left in the gun. I sprayed the crap out of everything. I know where the trouble spots are and hit them hard. I had also done a lot the week before and over the course of the summer while working on projects. Basically anytime a panel was removed from the interior the sheet metal got a spray and wiped down.
 
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so, you just spray off the underside at a carwash first or keep spraying the stuff over the dirt? The underside of mine is rather dirty/grease/sand whatever you expect from driving around for years, a trip through the car wash doesn't seem to get it all off, ever.
 
so, you just spray off the underside at a carwash first or keep spraying the stuff over the dirt? The underside of mine is rather dirty/grease/sand whatever you expect from driving around for years, a trip through the car wash doesn't seem to get it all off, ever.
Just get under with a garden hose and spray off the crap that you can. Let the truck dry before applying anything.
 
Ebay Item 181499295820
 
I talked to Waxoil tech support, the same guy in the top video above, he said the Waxoil 120-4 is designed to fog the internior panels, doors, crossmembers, frame rails, pillars, and other cavities to stop rust from starting from the inside out. They also spray it around the bottom edges of the doors, the hood, hatch, liftgate, and engine compartment. He mentioned for this particular product more is not better when sprayed on a vertical surfaces as it can "avalanche" or slide off the surface leaving a thinner layer once it dries.
 
Well still haven't made a purchase of anything, too busy. This fluid film is much cheaper than a lot of other options. Their website says u cant spray it with a pump sprayer in the faq. s***e. I imagine i can take it to work and use some air there. How messy and smelly is it applying this stuff?
It might sound like a no brainer taking it to my work (toyota dealership) and doing it on a lift, but those techs bitch like crazy about s*** and i can see them complaining if the smell or aerosol drifts into other bays. Any info?
 
Don't do it, it does smell and carry, did mine this weekend. You can minimize it by using the lowest air pressure possible to still get coverage. I ended up brushing it in some places I couldn't get the gun into. I think if you got it warm enough you could use a pump sprayer but don't hold me to it.
 
I bought my truck in Albuquerque and am also trying to find the best way to rust-protect (rust-proof seems wishful).

I'm not familiar with spray hardware, but since it's a once-a-year process maybe we can group-buy something like the Waxoyl setup and share it (I live in NYC so anyone in the tri-state is close enough for me). I'd def consider that, their sprayer looks really handy. Will continue watching this thread for consensus on the best method but I'm open to split one of these options, at least the hardware. Might work for one of the clubs, like GCLC, I'll check them next.J


You can stop by anytime and I can spray the bottom of your 80 with corrosionx HD. I have some on hand.
 

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