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Rust Proofing a J7?

Discussion in '70-Series Tech' started by Jim_Hbar, Jun 26, 2005.

  1. Jim_Hbar

    Jim_Hbar

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    All:

    I'm joining the 'Cruiser club again, with a JDM HZJ73 that is currently sitting on the dock, awaiting transport..should land around the end of July, hopefully.

    The one concern I have is trying to preserve the body in as rust free condition as possible, so that it doesn't dissapper like the J7's that were brought into Canada in the 80's..

    I'm looking for specific recommendations, particularly the pro's and con's of the Krown process (available locally), or competative products like Rust Check. Actual testimony of the results that have been achieved will be appeciated.

    TIA

    Jim
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2005
  2. Red Herring

    Red Herring

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    Hi Jim, and welcome. There is lots of talk and ideas about this. You might want to do a search in this forum, and the 60/62 forum for "rust Proofing" and sit back for an evenings read. I am in Victoria, and have decided to get my new to me 61 Krowned. I am going to ask that they do a particularly thorough job, and may even have them do it twice. I will first make sure that the truck is as clean as can be, then go fo it. Any spots that i am particularly worried about, Ill continue to shoot myself periodically with an inhilitor. So far the Krown seems like pretty good stuff. I would love to have the whole thing powder coated in a clear ;p ... but till then... goin with the Krown!
     
  3. Stone

    Stone Moderator

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    I bought a big pail of Pro-form wax based permanent rust proofing from Lordco. It was cheap (~$80 for 5 gallons), but it really needs to be thinned out to make it mist and creep.
     
  4. Eric Winkworth

    Eric Winkworth

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    The Krown guys are good, but don't let them do all the work for you, go home look under your entire truck, find all the dry spots write them down and call them and make another appointment, also make sure they fill your boxed in frame rails, as thats the main reason for me going back, but in my opinon it is the best rust proventitve tuff you can get, if you put in it water it will sink and seep into the matal and protect it. On most cars and trucks they have a detailed list of lube points they get from the factory unfortunatly the Land Cruiser isn't one of them, so make sure they get everywhere the bottom of my tub has like 1/4 of krown/rustcheck and the frame rails almost look dry again, the key with the krown is to keep going back for touch ups, it is all part of there deal that why you pay 100 bucks for it.

    well good luck

    cheers
    Eric
     
  5. Island Moose

    Island Moose

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    If it's wax-based you could heat it?.
     
  6. Stone

    Stone Moderator

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    Yup, we tried heating up each can-full of it in boiling water, Moose. It did help with spraying, but it was still too thick to really creep.
     
  7. Technikev

    Technikev

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    years ago I used to work in the autobody industry and a rustproofing product was one of our services.

    Out of the bucket, it was a fairly thick, beige goo, probably similar to a waxoil type of stuff. I do not remember the brand name. It was a bit of a bugger to spray properly as it would not mist and get in all the nooks and crannys of a vehicle very easly. It also tended to plug the spray nozzle.

    To get it to creep and spray in all the little areas that rust likes to live, we had to thin the stuff out quite a bit. We used Dupont products and so used their enamel reducer to thin the goo. Through a bit of trial and error when mixing the stuff, we would reduce it until it sprayed in a fine mist, then spray the hell out of the inside of panels and frame rails and stuff. You don't have to worry about spraying too much on and it would coat everything very well. Anthough it would not look very pretty, with runs and stuff, but you would not normally see anywhere it is sprayed.

    The reducer would evaporate over time and leave a sticky residue over everything, but would clean up nicely with just about any solvent (reducer, alcohol, etc.) any overspray on the outside of your vehicle.
     
  8. crushers

    crushers post ho

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    what ever you do, do NOT plug the normal drain holes with the stuff. water in-water out
     
  9. lshobie

    lshobie

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    There is some stuff here called "duraguard" it is thick and beige in colour. I bring my cruisers in for a krown treatment in the late summer, then bring in in to the other place for the duraguard. The krown creeps in and the duraguard seals it very well. It is gooey and thick - it is still there in the spring, even after snow-wheeling.
     
  10. Eric Winkworth

    Eric Winkworth

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    gotta love the snow wheeling
     
  11. mikeyT

    mikeyT

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    I do it similar to Lou (lshobie), 2 different products, so twice a year:

    My BJ70 was fixed 6 years ago; lower rear quarters and some touch ups here and there. I will have to get it fixed again this year or next, but it's not as bad looking as it was 6 years ago. Frequent rust-proofing has helped it last.

    Here's what I do:

    -in the fall, I get a non-drip heavy, sticky oil applied only as an undercoat (Oil Guard). I don't like the non-drip applied within the body panels, especially before the cold weather, because I think it actually clogs some cracks, seams and drains allowing moisture to go to work. Krown remains inside those fine, narrow areas (a good thing; too thin to clog). I'll have to check out Duraguard because I think Oil Guard has gone out of business.

    -I use the Krown light oil spray in February, before it starts to thaw (that's when the salt really begins to work). The oil is fresh during the thaw, then, when it gets warmer, the oil wicks into every nook and cranny. In Feb. there's hardly anyone going so they take their time. Also, they're down to their full-time staff, so less chance of getting some rushed fill-in part-timer. On top of that, they can't stand to see so much salt on the truck, so you get a free car wash!

    Keep the frame cleaned out and heavily goo-ed up.

    Make sure there are no holes underneath. The typical spot is under the rear wheel wells at the very back. Holes there allow salty moist air to circulate up as far as the roof pan. This could be a major contributor to roof line and roof pillar rot.

    There's so much goo under my truck in places, when welding underneath there's a risk of it catching fire. Seriously, you get to recognize when that glowing blob is just going to drip down on to your wrist.... you learn how to move fast!

    Cheers from humid Ottawa.
     
  12. Eric Winkworth

    Eric Winkworth

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    I got mine done twice this year, both times I had to take the gun out of the guys hand and show him, where I wanted it.

    I filled my frame rails with Krown it was so funny, he was going to leave them dry if I hadn't done that
     
  13. lshobie

    lshobie

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    My friend owns a concrete forming business. I used his spray machine to oil up my old 60. I covered it - literally. It was an environmental disaster - much like the Exxon Valdiz some said. Its still driving around today - rusty but still on the road.
     
  14. Technikev

    Technikev

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    I was down at Canadian Tire today and when I was wandering down the spray paint aisle, I ran across Rust Check in a spray bomb. They have it in two sizes. The larger can is about the same size as a regular can of spray paint, but is a bit taller and skinnier. The price was 8 bucks and a bit.

    I don't know how well Rust Check works, but they got it in Edmonton, anyway.

    -kevin
     
  15. Eric Winkworth

    Eric Winkworth

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    The rust check seems to be pretty good, seaps good , and kinda stays tacky

    kinda expensive, I use it for little things