Rust on a 94 -- Too Much or OK? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 28, 2020
Threads
9
Messages
50
Location
NY
Hi all -- new member/poster but have watched the forums for a while. I'm considering making a day trip out to see this Northeast 94 truck ($9000 OBO, under 150K miles). Owner is the second and says it's in good working order relatively speaking -- assuming that's right, are the rust issues (pics below) too much to make me reconsider? I'd be using this as a weekend ride for trips, etc. Many thanks for any feedback. I have a few more pics of underside.

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Looks fine to me. Check all factory welds and brackets. Doesn’t look horrible from the photos.
 
Looks pretty good from NY. Check the rear rockers, they are prone to rot. Basically the bottom of the rear wheel wells.
 
thanks both, appreciate it. Here are a few more for reference. Sounds like it's worth at least a look in person.

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Seems saveable and pretty good for that region. Although it's likely saveable you'll have some headache with fasteners in some areas due to rust and if you don't stop the rust where it is you'll find out how quickly it moves and be sad about how it looks in another year or two. I'd want to pay a less than $9k unless it's in really great condition everywhere else but I'm not very familiar with your areas market so $9k may be fair there.

I'd plan to clean up, convert and seal all areas that show rust as soon after purchase as you can so that you can stabilize the 80s condition before it gets any worse. Various types of wire brushes, corroseal, rust converter, fluid film, etc. are worth looking into and I would consider partial dissassembly to get to all of the rust if needed vs. just hoping for the best. Dropping the axles out for instance could make it easier to clean them up as well as get to some areas beneath on the body/frame. If suspension bushings and brake lines are needed then this could make more sense and seem less OCD. If it's running/driving well it would be a lot harder for me to justify pulling axles/etc. out for rust cleanup but hopefully whatever course you take you can clean it up and stop the rust pretty easily and enjoy the 80 for a long time to come.
 
Seems saveable and pretty good for that region. Although it's likely saveable you'll have some headache with fasteners in some areas due to rust and if you don't stop the rust where it is you'll find out how quickly it moves and be sad about how it looks in another year or two. I'd want to pay a less than $9k unless it's in really great condition everywhere else but I'm not very familiar with your areas market so $9k may be fair there.

I'd plan to clean up, convert and seal all areas that show rust as soon after purchase as you can so that you can stabilize the 80s condition before it gets any worse. Various types of wire brushes, corroseal, rust converter, fluid film, etc. are worth looking into and I would consider partial dissassembly to get to all of the rust if needed vs. just hoping for the best. Dropping the axles out for instance could make it easier to clean them up as well as get to some areas beneath on the body/frame. If suspension bushings and brake lines are needed then this could make more sense and seem less OCD. If it's running/driving well it would be a lot harder for me to justify pulling axles/etc. out for rust cleanup but hopefully whatever course you take you can clean it up and stop the rust pretty easily and enjoy the 80 for a long time to come.

Thanks all -- any ballpark estimates about cost + labor to do an undercoat job with Woolwax or something similar? I spent a few hours poking around here and calling around to get an idea but got wildly different figures (granted shops gave me figures w / out seeing the truck) -- anywhere from $400 to $5000...some direction based on experience here would be greatly appreciated. Wonder if I should hold out for looking at an example from sunnier climes but the fact this is local is tempting.
 
I've seen a few folks on this forum post info on rust treatments services experiences, including photos, so some more searching on the forum may provide some helpful info while you wait for someone to provide more specific recommendations on this thread. Here's a search idea that you could drop into Google for instance:

"new york" rust treatment price site:forum.ih8mud.com​

You can adjust the format of the above search for a particular city/area, etc. etc. but it's a start for some broadly related threads as is.

There's plenty of DIY information on the forum from folks that live in the rust belt with a lot of forum members really knowing their stuff and how to deal with all types of rust remediation. Even if you don't want to DIY spending some time reading through their techniques and observations may help you select a treatment service.

I'm guessing that an afternoon of wire brushing, then coating with rust converter followed by a spray of fluid film would go along way on the rig you are looking at and may be all you need if you are willing to keep an eye on it and repeat the process occasionally. Wear a jumpsuit, goggles and gloves and it may not be too unpleasant.

The bad thing about where you live is the rust but the good thing about where you live is that you should have multiple options for rust treatment services :)
 
You can take care of that rust via mechanical means like suggested above and get some paint of your choice on it. There are many chain outfits that do oil based spray treatments for underside, into panels, frame etc. I pay $500ish per vehicle in Canada for Krown rust prevention spray treatment. That includes adding holes with plugs where necessary to get into bottom of doors, panel folds etc. You can did it yourself by buying a pneumatic or electric sprayer and a few gallons of fluid film, wool wax etc. That 80 looks like it needs a intervention and saving ASAP as the rust isn’t bad now but is starting to set in. Good luck and keep us updated.
 
If you're from anywhere where they salt the roads, it's good to go.

If anyone from the West sees it, they'll say "it's lucky to still be on the road" or "yeah, for $500 and drive it until it dies".

Ignore the naysayers. Treat/remove the rust, then Fluid Film or Woolwax the hell out of it.
 
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Is that spray paint on the shock absorber (last pic first pots)?
 
You can take care of that rust via mechanical means like suggested above and get some paint of your choice on it. There are many chain outfits that do oil based spray treatments for underside, into panels, frame etc. I pay $500ish per vehicle in Canada for Krown rust prevention spray treatment. That includes adding holes with plugs where necessary to get into bottom of doors, panel folds etc. You can did it yourself by buying a pneumatic or electric sprayer and a few gallons of fluid film, wool wax etc. That 80 looks like it needs a intervention and saving ASAP as the rust isn’t bad now but is starting to set in. Good luck and keep us updated.

Can you provide any details on where they would add holes for extra protection??

Genuinely interested and intrigued.
 
Can you provide any details on where they would add holes for extra protection??

Genuinely interested and intrigued.

Not all panels have any access or good access to stick a spray wand into so a small hole is drilled, fluid sprayed in and then a plug put in to seal it. This allows future access to reapply fluid again a year or two later. Common areas that will see water or moisture build up have drain points incorporated but water and moisture often finds it’s way into places that it was never intended to be due to aging seals etc. Keep a vehicle oiled yearly or every couple years and they can survive in heavy salt areas easily. Unfortunately most people believe new vehicles are well protected against rust of which they are not at all so it gets neglected until it’s too late. If I was rich I would fund public infomercials on rust prevention as it’s killed countless vehicles that were otherwise fine.
 
Not all panels have any access or good access to stick a spray wand into so a small hole is drilled, fluid sprayed in and then a plug put in to seal it. This allows future access to reapply fluid again a year or two later. Common areas that will see water or moisture build up have drain points incorporated but water and moisture often finds it’s way into places that it was never intended to be due to aging seals etc. Keep a vehicle oiled yearly or every couple years and they can survive in heavy salt areas easily. Unfortunately most people believe new vehicles are well protected against rust of which they are not at all so it gets neglected until it’s too late. If I was rich I would fund public infomercials on rust prevention as it’s killed countless vehicles that were otherwise fine.

Hi pgmatt, completely understand the concept.

Was wondering if you can show me the spot so i can address my vehicle as we are getting ready to protect everything with woolwax in the coming weeks.

Like common places I might want to drill a small hole and protect it instead of waiting for it to rot.
 
Like others have said. Not bad for a NY truck. Try to get it for less but rust-wise it doesn't look like a no-go.
 
First post on the forum, as a soon-to-be-80 Series-owner....

I have a Toyota specialist lined up to do a pre-purchase inspection on this out-of-town rig, but just for kicks, and despite the low-quality pics, curious if anyone here sees anything....good, bad and/or ugly:

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First post on the forum, as a soon-to-be-80 Series-owner....

I have a Toyota specialist lined up to do a pre-purchase inspection on this out-of-town rig, but just for kicks, and despite the low-quality pics, curious if anyone here sees anything....good, bad and/or ugly:

View attachment 2587034View attachment 2587036

Doesnt look bad at all, just wire brush rust areas and use Rustoleum or prefered paint (dont use undercoating)... and this is coming from a owner of a rust free cali cruiser ;)

Oh, and get a new rear axle fill plug with crush gasket...
 

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