2001LC
SILVER Star
Yeah and don't forget the rock chips, I've worked on more than my share with touch-up paint.Yeah we don't have rust but they don't have cracked windshields and headlights
I'll take it all over rust.
Rust hole (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Spike555
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I'll take it all over rust.
- Thread starter
- #22
If no one else does it before I get home from work tomorrow, I will take and post pics. But these are not drain holes like you're thinking.
Take two pieces of paper, stick a pencil between them, staple them together on both sides of the pencil, remove the pencil, that is your drain hole, there are 6? of them the full length of the rocker panel.
- Thread starter
- #23
Yeah and don't forget the rock chips, I've worked on more than my share with touch-up paint.
I'll take it all over rust.
My dad has always called rust cancer, you have to cut it out to remove it and it always comes back and will eventually kill you.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I agree it's a cancer. But I might say cut it all out or it comes back! I used fiber glass once on a metal body to replace the cut out cancer, worked really well.
I used fiber glass once on a metal body to replace the cut out cancer, worked really well.
hoser
SILVER Star
The reason why rust normally comes back is that repair shops use thin cheap metal and they don't protect the surfaces good enough after the repair is carried out, which is hard to do on the inside. I had all the rust cut out and new metal put in around the rear end earlier this year. Epoxy primers is the way to go to protect as much as you can from reoccurrence. I also use a metal based body filler which is waterproof to tidy up the patch that was in the same spot as the Ops. By the time you start cutting out the bad stuff the hole will be a lot bigger than what it is now. If I had pictures I would post them but unfortunately I didn't take any.
Mine wasn't as bad as the Ops but it ended up being a pretty extensive repair, I think I paid my fabricator about 16 hours labour in total for the welding, this was partly because a previous owner had repairs done on the rear sections under the bumper without cutting out the old and it spread. Don't be shy with the hammer the more you remove the better the repair, you need all of the rust gone, I took out half of my inner wheel tub and sections under the rear bumper. Remove the rear bumper and look there, remove the mud flaps and hit away. You might aswell check everything and get it all done other wise you will be addressing these issues every year and it will put you down. Hopefully the rust is just local to the hole but I would check everything for the best repair.
Prevention is the best cure so don't wait for rust, that Krown looks like good product if that is the results of a truck living in the salt belt. Land Cruisers don't like salt, I haven't seen rust like I had on my truck since the early 90's when Manufacturers used cheap metal.
Mine wasn't as bad as the Ops but it ended up being a pretty extensive repair, I think I paid my fabricator about 16 hours labour in total for the welding, this was partly because a previous owner had repairs done on the rear sections under the bumper without cutting out the old and it spread. Don't be shy with the hammer the more you remove the better the repair, you need all of the rust gone, I took out half of my inner wheel tub and sections under the rear bumper. Remove the rear bumper and look there, remove the mud flaps and hit away. You might aswell check everything and get it all done other wise you will be addressing these issues every year and it will put you down. Hopefully the rust is just local to the hole but I would check everything for the best repair.
Prevention is the best cure so don't wait for rust, that Krown looks like good product if that is the results of a truck living in the salt belt. Land Cruisers don't like salt, I haven't seen rust like I had on my truck since the early 90's when Manufacturers used cheap metal.
How often does this need to be reapplied? I live in central TX (not exactly a rust-prone area), but travel to the coast and up to Colorado during winters to ski. Just want to protect my LX.
- Thread starter
- #28
Those are the drain holes. They are very thin.
Muddy Bean
Breaking something or fixing something
I apply
Once every two years. You could probably do the same or less
Once every two years. You could probably do the same or less
- Thread starter
- #31
Those holes are not even big enough for a WD-40 straw to fit.
YardPig
SILVER Star
OK, it's never been painted...Toyota must have put overspray on your ebrake cables and painted your brake lines on the back axle during production...
Muddy Bean
Breaking something or fixing something
It's not paint, that's dirty wet Krown oil...wait, I'm getting sucked in *Sigh. sorry original poster. Keeping on topic, sunroof drain clogs seem to be somewhat common, yet there's plenty of Hundys that don't get the rust in the rocker panel like yours did. I'm constantly cleaning my drains out. I know when they are getting clogged because my sunroof starts building up water in the drain tray and leaking on my head or down The headliner. I'm wondering if there are other issues that are the source of your rust at that particular location....besides the fact that you winter in Michigan or course lol.
- Thread starter
- #34
My drains are clear, it was the rocker panel that was clogged, it very well could be something else was compromised which lead to the rust.
I do know that the previous owner did not ever wash it because of the electrical gremlins caused by water ingress, it was bad enough that he traded it in and then I unknowingly bought the truck with those gremlins.
I too was ready to sell when we I figured it out with help from the Facebook group, it was a clogged passenger sunroof drain, water ran into the kickpanel electrics.
Anyway...Pure Michigan...
