Rust Bullet.... (1 Viewer)

Joined
Sep 29, 2010
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1,835
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San Antonio, TX 78253
Well I am currently trying to attempt my first fj40 build. I decided that I am not so mechanically inclined that I wanted to do a complete frame off, but more or less a clean up the frame, body, and upgrade some new parts. While my tub sits in a fellow member's shop waiting its rust repairs, I wanted to go ahead and clean up the frame as well as I could and apply rust inhibitor.

After thorough research of the plus and minuses of POR 15 vs Rust Bullet, I decided that rust bullet was a better choice for me because it doesnt require a person to follow the directions to the T, and much less prep.

With that said, I ordered a gallon of the RB metal blast, a can of the RB automotive coating, and a can of the RB black topshell. I still am not quite sure if I am going to use the RB black topshell as I have read that some of the members on here have ran into the issue of it becoming so hard that the coating cracks? or something along those lines. So I might just use good ole rustoleum as the top coat.

Since the tub is off, and no power to the brakes, I fortunately have a neighbor that with a Texas style brush guard that was more than willing to pull his truck up and allow the 40 to ride the brush guard down our driveway which is pretty steep.

From there I pressure washed as much of the mud as I could. 40 years of mud and rocks is a pain in the a## to remove completely. So after about 3 hours of pressure washing, she was as clean as she was going to be.

Now to the metal blast.... Once the 40 was dry, I applied the metal blast using just a 3.00 squeeze spray bottle from Ace hardware, all over the frame. The directions tell you to let it sit for at least 15 minutes, and wipe off using a clean rag. In areas where rust is heavily built up, your suppose to use an abrasive pad in those areas. I used a wire brush. So after allowing to dry, I went ahead and sprayed it once again and gave it about an hour to do its thing. I came back out and wiped it down. I must say that I was pretty impressed with the metal blast, easy to use and does a pretty good job!

Now onto the RB automotive coating.... Since I do not have the means or a booth to use a spray gun, and the fact that some guys state that the RB automotive coating tends to clog up their guns, I decided that brushing it on was the best way to go. I will say that I think this is the best route to go as it is pretty thick stuff. The RB directions say to apply two coats. Each coat equaling two coats. The quart size can that I had purchased was just enough to apply to both coats. After applying I really wish that I was capable of doing a complete frame off, as apply this stuff would be much easier as there are a ton of cracks and crannies, but so far I am pretty impressed.

I know some of you are probably going to think I am crazy for apply the stuff in the garage, and I will say that I am crazy. If I had a flat driveway, I would have done it outside as the stuff is potent. I highly suggest using a mask as I will be using one tomorrow when apply the black topshell if I decided to use it. Also I highly suggest obtaining some rubber or latex gloves that get as close to your elbows as possible. The stuff is tough to get off once it is dry.

Anyways here are some pictures, and I will update this thread tomorrow when I apply the topshell or rustoleum... Hope this helps!

Sully
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Joined
Sep 29, 2010
Messages
1,835
Location
San Antonio, TX 78253
The Above pics are prior to metal blast

I guess I did not take any photos of the frame after the metal blast, but here are a few of the frame during and after rust bullet automotive coating...

Look who I got to help...
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Joined
Apr 6, 2003
Messages
380
Location
Sumner, WA
 
I did basically the same thing to mine. You may want to ruff up the rust bullet with some sand paper before you coat it with something, I had a problem because it dries so smooth and hard with the coating peeling off. I coated my frame with their black shell after the rust bullet and didn’t like it because of how easy it chipped after it dried. I ended up buying some spray on bed liner ( Rapter ) and spraying the frame with that. I am happy with the way that it turned out and loved the rust bullet product (Hated trying to get it off my hands and arms).
 
Joined
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So do you think I should just save myself the hassle of putting the blackshell on? What you said about it chipping seems to be the biggest complaint and so that is why I was contemplating even using it. I have ten cans of good ole rustoleum black spray paint in the garage and have thought about just using it instead.
 
Joined
Jun 12, 2009
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1,298
Location
Edmond, OK
 
 
I had the same issue with the rust bullet top shell. It looks good when applied but chips very easily. I did some touch up with rustoleum and it looks just fine.

I just tried VHT epoxy paint on my tire carrier and really liked the way it lays down coming out of a spray can. I'm going to use it for all my future black spray paint projects and ditch the rustoleum.
 
Joined
Mar 16, 2003
Messages
995
Location
Olympia, WA
I am considering going down the same path as you did. I do have a question about brushing the stuff on though. How did you deal with the inside of the frame in the sections where it is boxed?
 
Joined
Apr 6, 2003
Messages
380
Location
Sumner, WA
 
I used small rollers and those little sponge things on a stick they come in different sizes and really slathered it on over the rivits and tougher areas to reach. I didn't have any latex gloves when doing this and highly recommend them that stuff starts showing up in strange places after you get it on you and doesn't come off for a while.
 
Joined
Apr 6, 2003
Messages
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Sumner, WA
 
I also used those small rollers to apply it on the outside of the frame, they are the sponge type ones not the nap ones, and those little sponges on a stick are great for getting in the cracks and creavises.
 
Joined
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Messages
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San Antonio, TX 78253
Scott-- I used sponges to get it on the inside of the frame where it's boxed. However I'm not so positive of how well of a job I did on the inside. This is why I wish I was more of a mechanic so that I could pull my motor so I can get in to a few places better. I figure when the time comes if it comes to pull the motor I will try to make it better then. Fortunately, one of the po actually had did the frame a while ago and that part of the frame looks really good.

79fj40--- where can you buy VHT?? I wouldn't mind trying that. Is it about the same cost as rustoleum? I have been using the "professional" rustoleum spray cans and have no complaints yet on other parts
 
Joined
Apr 6, 2003
Messages
380
Location
Sumner, WA
 
After looking you can find it a most of the bigger auto parts stores. I actually have used their caliper paint and like it.
 
Joined
Jan 18, 2006
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9,615
Location
Reno, Nevada
FWIW...I tried the RB top shell stuff on my front spring pack...its been exposed to some BAD STUFF that (slag, sparks, brake fluid etc) would KILL inferior paints and has held up well thus far. However, i have no real world wheeling experience with it yet though.
It takes FOREVER to apply though and my be what forces me to use the rustoleum appliance paint that Ive become SO FOND OF. Still takes some time to dry, but that crap is pretty damn durable as well.
 

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