Someone w/ some experience give me the pros/cons of both. The rust bullet seems to need more prep/finish than the conversion product ?
Rust Bullet or Rust converter product (like crc) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter sdbrassfield
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I used a rust converter paint around my rear windows with a rustoleum topcoat. Been a year now and it's holding up great. Prep was easy.
Guess it depends on what you're painting. If it's an area, like a diff housing, probably wouldn't last all that long on gravel roads. IMHO go with Rust Bullet. But for body, rust converter worked for me.
I tried the POR-15 on my front diff. Do not recommend it. I'll be trying Rust Bullet when I rebuild my rear end. Hopefully it lasts longer than a few winter months. And yes, I prepped the s*** out of the housing before paint......
Guess it depends on what you're painting. If it's an area, like a diff housing, probably wouldn't last all that long on gravel roads. IMHO go with Rust Bullet. But for body, rust converter worked for me.
I tried the POR-15 on my front diff. Do not recommend it. I'll be trying Rust Bullet when I rebuild my rear end. Hopefully it lasts longer than a few winter months. And yes, I prepped the s*** out of the housing before paint......
- Thread starter
- #4
Will be on body areas/sheet metal for a beater 60 I will be rattle canning a camo when done. Stil want to stop some rust on rear quarter and rocker under doors. I am leaning toward the brush on converter then doing the sanding and a little bondo. From what I understand the converter does not require to much prep after the conversion and is sandable/easier to paint over.
Has anybody used rustguy.com? I saw it advertised on AgDay and would like to knopw more.
I've used rust bullet, and compared the prep involved vs. POR-15 (rust bullet has way less prep), and I've used Eastwoods rust encapsulaor (they also have a rust coverter product, used before the encapsulator - check out www eastwood.com for their rust solutions). The Eastwood was the easiest (rattle can). I have not put the Eastwood into service yet, so I can't comment on longevity. The rust bullet, I used a spray guy, on my seat rebuild. I liked the color so much and it looked almost like the original color, I left it as is (I was going to use CCOT silver paint). The problem with rust bullet is any left over paint dries quickly in the can. So next time I needed to buy some, I bought a six-pack of 1/2 pint cans. If you have a big job, then a quart is more economical, but for my seat frames, the little cans were great. Rust bullet sticks like you wouldn't believe. If you get in on your skin, it will be there for a week. I got some fine mist on my glasses, and I couldn't get ot off with anything (even MEK). I needed new glasses anyway, and I wear a face shield now.
I like the Eastwood for ease of use, but if I want to be sure the thing won't rust, I like rust bullet, but it's more of a pain to use, but they say you can brush it on. I'm hoping the Eastwood stuff will stand the test of time, because it is easy to use. Also, rust bullet does not need to be topcoated, unlike PRO-15 and the Eastwood product.
I like the Eastwood for ease of use, but if I want to be sure the thing won't rust, I like rust bullet, but it's more of a pain to use, but they say you can brush it on. I'm hoping the Eastwood stuff will stand the test of time, because it is easy to use. Also, rust bullet does not need to be topcoated, unlike PRO-15 and the Eastwood product.
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- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks for the info...Has anyone used a conversion product ?
ospho
RUSTED METALS - OSPHO is a rust-inhibiting coating - NOT A PAINT You do not have to remove tight rust. Merely remove loose paint and rust scale, dirt, oil, grease and other accumulations with a wire brush - apply a coat of OSPHO as it comes in the container - let dry overnight, then apply whatever paint system you desire. When applied to rusted surfaces, OSPHO causes iron oxide (rust) to chemically change to iron phosphate - an inert, hard substance that turns the metal black. Where rust is exceedingly heavy, two coats of OSPHO may be necessary to thoroughly penetrate and blacken the surface to be painted. A dry, powdery, grayish-white surface usually develops; this is normal - brush off any loose powder before paint application.
THIS IS GOOD STUFF ! Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947
RUSTED METALS - OSPHO is a rust-inhibiting coating - NOT A PAINT You do not have to remove tight rust. Merely remove loose paint and rust scale, dirt, oil, grease and other accumulations with a wire brush - apply a coat of OSPHO as it comes in the container - let dry overnight, then apply whatever paint system you desire. When applied to rusted surfaces, OSPHO causes iron oxide (rust) to chemically change to iron phosphate - an inert, hard substance that turns the metal black. Where rust is exceedingly heavy, two coats of OSPHO may be necessary to thoroughly penetrate and blacken the surface to be painted. A dry, powdery, grayish-white surface usually develops; this is normal - brush off any loose powder before paint application.
THIS IS GOOD STUFF ! Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
I've used a ton of POR-15 on my Pig. It has worked great. It does involve a good bit of prep work but if you prep like you should you will have a good product. It self levels VERY nice. It's not UV stable (will fade heavily) and top coating is required if in direct sun exposure. 99% of my work though was floors, frame, etc.
I haven't used RustBullet much on my vehicles but I have helped a friend with his 40 and he used it extensively. Much less prep and he is so far happy with it. He sprayed it straight (no dilution).
I'd be fine using either POR-15 or RustBullet again. Most of the complaints I've heard about either are from improper prep.
I haven't used RustBullet much on my vehicles but I have helped a friend with his 40 and he used it extensively. Much less prep and he is so far happy with it. He sprayed it straight (no dilution).
I'd be fine using either POR-15 or RustBullet again. Most of the complaints I've heard about either are from improper prep.
How about Chassis Saver from Magnet Paints? I think they advertise themselves as a cheaper alternative to POR15 with less prep.
Monstaliner do-it-yourself roll-on truck bed liner
Monstaliner do-it-yourself roll-on truck bed liner
I agree. If you sandblast the metal and use the Metal Ready, POR15 is probably a great product under perfect conditions.
But, most people aren't sandblasting for "prep". There are way to many variables for POR to be effective (temp/humidity/existing paint), for me anyways. I had the salesman look at what I was using it for and give me exact directions which I followed to a tee (spent 2 days on 1 diff housing!). The paint won't even hold up to a floor jack. And when it starts to peel, it's like plastic.
IMHO, if I'm going to sandblast for prep, I'm going with proper PPG epoxy primer for way less.
Hopefully the Eastwood/Rust Bullet products are a more user friendly solution.... in hindsight, I should've just used Rustoleum and saved all the grief.
For bodywork, I would have no problem using a rust converter again. Just my 2 cents based on limited experience. Good luck with your resto!
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
The issues I've seen with POR15 and improper prep are a dirty surface (oil, dust, etc) or too smooth of a surface. POR15 likes to have a little tooth to bite into.
ETA: I've never had great luck top coating over POR15. I don't have any experience top coating over RustBullet.
ETA: I've never had great luck top coating over POR15. I don't have any experience top coating over RustBullet.
K I guys I just registered so hello, I think the human verification/captcha where you have to type in the advertisement slogan is hilarious but onto my question...
I was thinking of using the folling and was wondering if it would work on top of one another:
1.) Get all the loose rust removed and use pre metal prep to cclean and degrease
2.) use rust converter to get rid of the rest of the rust
3.) use an etching prime
4. use a 2k aersol epoxy primer
5.) Use rust bullet
6.) Top coat with a rattle can or maybe some eastwood extreme chassis black
I dont know if I will use every step but are these all compatible with one another, I would probably only use one primer but I only want to do this once. I will be coating the frame of my 97 blazer 4x4 2 door. and can rust bullet be used on fiberglass is place of resin like por-15 thanks. And can rust bullet be used with epoxy primer or rust bullet. Thanks.
I was thinking of using the folling and was wondering if it would work on top of one another:
1.) Get all the loose rust removed and use pre metal prep to cclean and degrease
2.) use rust converter to get rid of the rest of the rust
3.) use an etching prime
4. use a 2k aersol epoxy primer
5.) Use rust bullet
6.) Top coat with a rattle can or maybe some eastwood extreme chassis black
I dont know if I will use every step but are these all compatible with one another, I would probably only use one primer but I only want to do this once. I will be coating the frame of my 97 blazer 4x4 2 door. and can rust bullet be used on fiberglass is place of resin like por-15 thanks. And can rust bullet be used with epoxy primer or rust bullet. Thanks.
Definitely skip the rust converter if that's a tanic acid type product.
Is there such a thing as a 2K aerosol epoxy primer?
I had very poor results top coating over rust bullet. Stuff sticks very well but lots of prep work and as some else mentioned, it dries out in the can
Those 2K spray primers are expensive (~$20 a can).
I'm having good results with Chassis Saver Gloss Black on the bed of my FJ40. The prep isn't too difficult and it lays down really nice. I'm going to line over it with some tintable liner (grey).
One thing that I noticed so far is that Chassis Saver will lift/bubble any existing paint. I'm just going back and grinding the bubbles down and reapplying where it needs it.
Magnetman - if it were me, I'd go 1,5,6 on your list. Rust bullet want's bare metal or rust, not on top of primer. Check out rust bullet's website (Rust Inhibitor Paint | Stop Rust | Rust Corrosion Inhibitor | Rust Converter).
Will the bed liner adhere will to the Chassis Saver product?
I am thinking of wire wheeling my tub with my grinder then cleaning and using Chassis saver. Will this turn existing rust into a hard like substance like por-15 or just stop it?
Any pice?
Did you prime after using Chassis or go straight to bedliner?
Did the paint that lifted/bubbled happen to be spray paint? If so, what brand was it?
