Rust behind mud flaps- sell and move on? (1 Viewer)

[mezger996]

Attaching pics of rust behind the rear mudflaps on my 2007 100 series. It’s on both sides unfortunately. Car has 193k on it. Need to make a decision on whether to ignore and run into the ground, or sell and get what I can for it right now. I’ve already made some rust repairs over the years so not willing to spend more on it vs general maintenance.
I’ve been diligent about annually spraying with fluid film but can’t win the fight against this cancer haha. The frame is rusty but nothing structural….yet at least
Any opinions would be greatly appreciated! Car runs great and on top of all maintenance.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Figure out what amount you'd be happy to accept. List it for sale a bit higher and see what happens. If you get a good offer, sell it, otherwise keep on the path you're on.

 

[mezger996]

Thanks! I’ve already had to block off the rear AC due to rust and replace some brake lines.
Really, only potential repairs that scare me are the AHC lines and brake booster.
Timing belt service was done in 2022 so all good on all that.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Depends on your future plans. I have the same rust behind the rear wheel wells, but I plan on installing an aftermarket
rear bumper in the future and that whole section can be cut out at that point so it doesn't really bug me. You just have
to gauge what your plans are for the truck and see if those plans mitigate the rust you have.

It is a low mileage '07 after all. That, in and of itself, carries a fair amount of value to the owner.

 

[mezger996]

Sorry, not that knowledgeable about the bumper replacements.,Wasn’t aware that an aftermarket one allows that area to be cut out. Are you just dealing with it until that’s done?

I guess that’s a feasible option as well

 

[Trapper50cal]

Sorry, not that knowledgeable about the bumper replacements.,Wasn’t aware that an aftermarket one allows that area to be cut out. Are you just dealing with it until that’s done?

I guess that’s a feasible option as well

Yeah, most of the "Armor-based" bumpers have pretty beefy sides that go all the way to the back of the wheel well so a lot of body that is behind that portion can be deleted without it looking weird. It's a commitment to the truck not going back to stock at any point though. At least not without extra body work...

 

[Somebodyelse5]

you live in chicago? It's gonna rust dude.

 

[mezger996]

Yea I’m sure

That’s why considering getting rid of it and getting one from down south or out west. Runs great but worried about more failures/repairs due to rust

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Yea I’m sure

That’s why considering getting rid of it and getting one from down south or out west. Runs great but worried about more failures/repairs due to rust

Whatever you get will rust. Just run the rusty one, fix it when it rusts. it’s your penance for living in rust country.

Don’t go find a rust free one to ruin, let it live a long and happy life somewhere else

 

[Trapper50cal]

As a fellow resident of the Desert Southwest, I approve of this ^ ^ ^ message.

 

[97 AZ LC]

As a fellow resident of the Desert Southwest, I approve of this ^ ^ ^ message.

Durango couldn't get into the Desert Southwest if it had an affidavit.

 

[Kabanstva]

That actually looks decent. Here’s a pic of a 2004 100 series I test drove a few years ago that was advertised as “rust free”. Needless to say we walked away.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Durango couldn't get into the Desert Southwest if it had an affidavit.

I'm 25 minutes from New Mexico...we are high plains desert butted up against Rockies.
We don't need an affidavit, it's objective reality.

 

[97 AZ LC]

I'm 25 minutes from New Mexico...we are high plains desert butted up against Rockies.
We don't need an affidavit, it's objective reality.

This is what's wrong with objective reality today. YOU LIVE IN THE MOUNTAINS! Or at least right on the edge of them, at about 7k feet. You get several feet of snowfall every year. I've lived in Durango and in Phoenix. There's a big difference in climate and particularly how cars age.

 

[mezger996]

Haha thanks for the feedback. Even if purchasing from rust free states, do these cars still get to this point if doing fluid film on a rust free example?
Really no point of getting one from the south or west if they simply cannot handle salt

Looks like I need to move out of illinois for more reasons than the politics

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Haha thanks for the feedback. Even if purchasing from rust free states, do these cars still get to this point if doing fluid film on a rust free example?
Really no point of getting one from the south or west if they simply cannot handle salt

Looks like I need to move out of illinois for more reasons than the politics

All the fluid film and all the coatings int the world will only slow down the rust. It won’t stop it.

 

[whitec13]

Haha thanks for the feedback. Even if purchasing from rust free states, do these cars still get to this point if doing fluid film on a rust free example?
Really no point of getting one from the south or west if they simply cannot handle salt

Looks like I need to move out of illinois for more reasons than the politics

Being from Michigan I can assure you, nothing can handle road salt. There are trucks here that are less than 10 years old rusting away. It’s not about the salt, it’s about how you care for them. Rust forms on examples that are too close to the ocean due to salted air. The moral being, eventually it will rust in this region. Mine is rusty as hell too, but I bought with the understanding that I can mitigate it, get my moneys worth out of it, and drive it to the ground. Which I have and enjoyed doing so. Growing up with rusty stuff to work on, you get used to it. Doesn’t mean you enjoy it, but you get used to it. If you’re not the one doing the work and have concerns about rust, I would look for something that isn’t as old and doesn’t require a premium product when a repair is done. 100 Series Land Cruisers are not budget friendly and really prefer their OEM products. It’s a labor of love

 

[Zuberg]

I think most cars will succumb to salt, especially the brine solution they coat the roads with these days if they're not treated. If you coat the frame inside and out, underbelly etc each fall and give regular washings during winter you should be fine. Guys in the northeast mix bar oil and kerosene/diesel and spray it on. Works great. Not much fun to wrench on afterwards....but at least it's not rusty.

Another option, if you have the means and space is to keep a beater for everyday winter driving. Here in NoVA they love to coat the roads with brine everytime VDOT hears someone say rain or snow if it's under 40 degrees. Most of time we get squat but the roads are white for a week straight....

 

[mezger996]

This technically is the beater lol. I have a 2001 996 turbo in addition to this. My mechanic said that if I got a cayenne it would be in for issues, but that the cruiser will rust. Pick your poison. Assuming the 200 series and LX equivalents also have this issue? Obviously they are newer

 

[Trapper50cal]

This is what's wrong with objective reality today. YOU LIVE IN THE MOUNTAINS! Or at least right on the edge of them, at about 7k feet. You get several feet of snowfall every year. I've lived in Durango and in Phoenix. There's a big difference in climate and particularly how cars age.

Respectfully, without trying to drag this out...it is important to represent the correct info for this thread. It's not about elevation or annual moisture levels, it's about RH...relative humidity. It's very dry here in southern Colorado, in all of Colorado, actually. The Rockies go through NM as well. Yes, there's a big difference in climates but just because it's not 115º in the shade up here doesn't mean we aren't in the Southwest. As to how cars age, again, it's about average relative humidity, but it's also about how roads are managed during the winter. To my knowledge we don't salt our roads, but we DO use Mag Chloride so there is that. But by and large, cars age very similarly in both locations.