Builds Rust be gone and don't come back

musthave

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40th Anniversary, low miles, but found rust throughout it's earlier life. So, it's time for some TLC before heading off to have an LS Swap done. The frame and underside pieces have certainly had their fare share of rust. Thankfully for some leaky fluids over the years the front side was a little better than the rear.

Got it in the shop and went to work.


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musthave

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Next we removed the body from the frame. All new body mounts are on order. The body was on pretty solid and the body mounts felt like they were welded to the frame.


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musthave

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We sourced a donor frame from Georgia. Brought it back and stripped off all of the extras on it. Then the frame was entirely sand blasted. After sand blasting, the donor frame looked beautiful. No dirt, no grease, just beautiful steel of Japanese origin. My favorite. I'm biased.



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So, now it becomes more interesting. In order to prevent further rust, the frame was galvanized. The Galvanic process is pretty amazing, long story short though, it comes out beautiful and offers incredible protection against the elements. So, no more rust.



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musthave

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So, one of the things that sucks about doing all this to a frame is that you have to chase the threads of EVERY bolt hole. It's time consuming. Necessary. Heating the hole with a torch first, then tapping it, then putting in new bolts.

I'll add a video of how awesome it is once it's done.

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musthave

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The body was next up, we de-greased it, wire wheeled any rust off, de-greased it again, then carefully pressure washed it. It's amazing how clean it looked after 20+ years of use, rust, grease, grime, etc. Perhaps a testament to Toyota, or the oil leaks over the years. Either way, it cleaned up beautiful.

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The frame is protected for everything that will come its way, so it only made sense to give the underside of the body some protection from the elements going forward. We chose to continue the process with a liberally applied coating of Macropoxy 646. The end result was excellent. Super happy with the choices made for protecting this cruiser in the coming years. Of course, we also used Macropoxy 646 on the axle housings after cleaning them up too. That way they have the best possible ability of surviving into the future.

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Kabanstva

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This is so much work man. It’s coming out great. Will you fluid film the frame afterwards or use a similar product just in case? The Galvanized stee wheels on my dad’s boat trailer are pretty rusty even though it’s seen little to no road salt. It’s good stuff but not bulletproof.
 

Njck22

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You post alot of intriguing/interesting stuff so it's exciting to see some more of your work. Still impressed with that Desert Dune 2004 you did awhile back. Please share more!
 
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The Galvanize process clogs them up pretty bad. A sacrificial bolt is good but they don’t want you to do that because of venting.
Did you take any pre- and post- measurements to see if / how much the galvanizing process tweaked the frame? Typically the heat from the process can relieve welded stresses somewhat and can twist frame pieces as such.

I'm curious if and how much.

I have considered doing a galv process on a pickup frame (C-Channel style)


Also, what cleaning process did you do on the galv in order to apply the 646? It's fairly specific in order to achieve an immersion quality coating.

How thick are you making the 646? Spec calls for (2) coats at 5.0 to 10.0 mils DFT PER COAT. That's REALLY thick. Are there any areas that the paint thickness will interfere with reassembly? Possibly where the steering gear mounts?

How about cure time prior to assembly?
 

musthave

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Did you take any pre- and post- measurements to see if / how much the galvanizing process tweaked the frame? Typically the heat from the process can relieve welded stresses somewhat and can twist frame pieces as such.

I'm curious if and how much.

I have considered doing a galv process on a pickup frame (C-Channel style)


Also, what cleaning process did you do on the galv in order to apply the 646? It's fairly specific in order to achieve an immersion quality coating.

How thick are you making the 646? Spec calls for (2) coats at 5.0 to 10.0 mils DFT PER COAT. That's REALLY thick. Are there any areas that the paint thickness will interfere with reassembly? Possibly where the steering gear mounts?

How about cure time prior to assembly?
We didn't take measurements prior to galvanizing, but used the Toyota body/frame specs to be certain that things were correct after completion and they were. The Galvanizing company stated that they don't typically see issues as the temps are under 900 and they are only there for a very short period of time. I'm no metallurgist and really relied on their expertise. When we went to pick up our frame it was in a section with several others.

We followed instructions that were provided by Sherwin Williams specific to the Macropoxy 646. We sprayed 2 coats each were and ended at around 12 mils. It's fairly thick, but hasn't interfered with any reassembly. We mounted the steering box temporarily so that we could separate it as it will be replaced with a Redhead. It mated up perfectly. No issues. The only issue that I do foresee is when putting on the brackets for the sliders. We'll see.

It cured for 4 days before any assembly. We started chasing threads after about 48 hours. We used sacrificial bolts before applying the Macropoxy so chasing them a 2nd time was super simple. The Macropoxy cuts a lot easier than the zinc :)
 

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