Running on only 1 Carb Barrel? (1 Viewer)

[BaristaBoy]

I'm still learning how carbs work and how to work on them, this may simply be a stupid question-

Ive been trying to find a vacuum leak on my 60 for awhile, been through 30$ in brake cleaner probably. it only ever seems to ramp up when I spray the back end of the carb and I can't find a specific spot, which make's me think its the gasket at the base of the intake manifold?

More importantly, I was revving the engine while I had it fully at idle (I can only get it to idle on really warm days now) and seeing If I was missing something, I noticed that even if i pulled the lever on the side of the carb all the way and let the engine rev to probably 4000 rpm, only the barrel closest to the engine sprayed fuel while the other one simply looks crusty.
I've already ordered a rebuild kit from cruiser outfitters, but I wanted to check and see if this is normal? Other than the vacumn leak I don't have too many problems going up hills or getting to 70mph on the highway.

the good side on the left(from front of car)

and the crusty right side:

 

[2mbb]

your secondary is vacuum actuated and my not open unless there is a load on the carburetor. You can test it by doing the "paper clip" test. Put a paper clip around the secondary vacuum actuator linkage up against the actuator (red circle). Take a drive up a hill or under load. Then check the paper clip. If it is in the same position, then the vacuum actuator isn't working. If it has been pushed down the linkage, because the linkage was pulled inside the actuator, then the secondary is working.

picture taken from www.SOR.com

 

[pithicus]

I think only the primary barrel pumps fuel.
The vacuum leak could be worn butterfly shaft.
Does the primary shaft feel a bit wobbly?

 

[Cincodemustache]

You may also have a bad seal at the base of the carb to the insulator plate. Or even insulator plate to the intake manifold.

once you remove the carb to rebuild it you will be able to tell if the mounting nuts are loose. Or if the carb insulator is shot. The insulator is still available from Toyota for around $100 and you may want to slap it on with the rebuilt carb.

 

[John McVicker]

^^^Not uncommon.

 

[BaristaBoy]

Took awhile to get back to this thread, my package was one of the last shipped before city racer paused orders and had some problems getting it delivered. Carb is rebuilt, new insulator is on- Is there a trick to getting this thing to not leak? If i spray brake cleaner at the base of the carb the engine still revs up, ive tightened every bolt as much as I can and even bought a set of S shaped obstruction wrenches to make sure i was getting it. Im considering pulling it off and putting a small layer of RTV on the gasket, is this advisable? also realized some of my vacuum stuff is related to the dizzy, but i still cant get it to idle without dying, I think im in store for a new PCV valve and possibly a bunch of learning about vacumn on desmogs.

Thank you guys for the help previously, I really do appreciate it all.

 

[pithicus]

You can try smearing some vasolene around both ends of the primary butterfly shaft. I have 3 old aisan carbs lying around and all are worn badly in the primary shaft, so it does happen.

 

[BaristaBoy]

I'll try the vaseline, thanks!

I spent the morning chasing the steel lines in the back of the engine bay, and found one with a hose tucked down behind the washer reservoir and not attached at all- plugged it there and the cruiser finally starting running well with no choke at all! followed it back to the base of the carb insulator to that J pipe and plugged that with an actual vacuum cap and this thing runs so much better than it ever has since I owned it. Spent the rest of the morning replacing the s***ty screw and old vac pipe caps the PO had on it and smearing the butterfly shafts with some vase, It doesn't even need choke to start it anymore, one of the most productive 4 hours I've had working on her that I've ever had. Thanks for the help guys!