Run Extended Positive and Negative Terminal to Fire Wall (1 Viewer)

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Mar 18, 2018
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Denver, CO
Hi Everyone,

I am struggling to sort through my 12v system and accessories. I have my switches mounted to the ceiling center console, however the run (overall length of low volt wire is too far to run from my main battery. Here are the components I want to run off my main battery:

1) Flood/Long Distance Driving Spots
2) Fog Lights 6" LED x2
3) Fog Light 21" LED x1
4) ARB Air Compressor/Front and Rear Air Lockers

The remaining accessories I will run off my second battery
1) Inverter
2) Rear Hatch LED x2
3) Ext. Camping Lights/Off-roading Lights
4) RTT Power
5) Random Device Chargers throughout the vehicle

I want to run all of the accessories low volt through the passenger firewall (its where I have done it in the past) and up the pillar to the ceiling or to the center console by the shifter.

The rub is that I am using quick connect compatible connections, which allows for a pretty easy install and uninstall (flexibility) but the running length of the wire from the relay to the switch is quite short.

In a perfect world, I would set up an accessory tray that mounts to the firewall and have positive/negative terminals there. I am struggling though because I am an electrical novice.

I have relays and in-line fuses, so I am thinking of an easy solution like this: 12V Distribution Block

I'd love to see images of installations from other people on here so I can wrap my mind around the scope and the DIY instructions before I dive in, because I've found good prep/plan eliminates so much wasted time ... which I can't afford as a Dad of two when working overnight.
 
What you're describing is certainly doable. My friend built something similar for his rig. However, I recommend looking into either an SPOD as mentioned above or a Switch Pro if you're not fully invested in a DIY solution. I personally have a Switch Pro which keeps all of my power and ground connections in the engine bay along with the unit itself. Then, there's a single control cord that connects the unit, goes through my driver's side firewall grommet, and connects to the button controller mounted where my ashtray used to be. I'm using it to control power to my roof rack light bar, ditch lights, rock lights, front spot lights, front camera, and ARB air compressor.
 
What you're describing is certainly doable. My friend built something similar for his rig. However, I recommend looking into either an SPOD as mentioned above or a Switch Pro if you're not fully invested in a DIY solution. I personally have a Switch Pro which keeps all of my power and ground connections in the engine bay along with the unit itself. Then, there's a single control cord that connects the unit, goes through my driver's side firewall grommet, and connects to the button controller mounted where my ashtray used to be. I'm using it to control power to my roof rack light bar, ditch lights, rock lights, front spot lights, front camera, and ARB air compressor.

For whatever reason, I love the analog feel of the rocker switches - so I am trying to avoid a SPOD or Switch Pro at this stage, but it seemingly is the preferred accessory management system for so many people on here.
 
You can get physical switches for the SPOD

Oh wow - so there is one wire running to each rocker switch?

I have a center console switch plate already built up from Ben .. hmm …

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A little different. The SPOD distribution center lives in the engine bay. You connect everything to there.
Then you run one [network] cable from the distribution center to the switch panel. Then the switch panel communicates with the distribution center to tell it to turn things on and off.
 
The Trigger Six Shooter is functionally similar, abeit a little less...clean? Solid state, super functional, mine's been running fine for a few years now. I have a similar preference for rocker switches, and the Trigger has an add-on cable to use them. My upper/center console looks exactly like yours.
You'd want the cable—super small, easy to run. The included switches are 1000x worse than any SPOD setup. Either setup allows you to also control ON/OFF/FLASH through your phone (Trigger does, SPOD...I think does?)

Or go HARDCORE DIY haha DIY - Build and install a Bussmann RTMR Fuse/Relay Block - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-build-and-install-a-bussmann-rtmr-fuse-relay-block.399454/
 
The Trigger Six Shooter is functionally similar, abeit a little less...clean? Solid state, super functional, mine's been running fine for a few years now. I have a similar preference for rocker switches, and the Trigger has an add-on cable to use them. My upper/center console looks exactly like yours.
You'd want the cable—super small, easy to run. The included switches are 1000x worse than any SPOD setup. Either setup allows you to also control ON/OFF/FLASH through your phone (Trigger does, SPOD...I think does?)

Or go HARDCORE DIY haha DIY - Build and install a Bussmann RTMR Fuse/Relay Block - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-build-and-install-a-bussmann-rtmr-fuse-relay-block.399454/
I love that Bussman RTMR Relay and Fuse block!!
 

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