Ruffstuff dif guard placement (1 Viewer)

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peteinjp

peteinjp

Joined
Mar 3, 2010
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Though it's advertised as usable on the 9.5" dif it seems to be a bit of a compromise. Without a doubt it will require some pretty heavy beat and beat treatment. More of a problem than that is placement and that's where I'd like some input.

Basically there are 2 choices. 1. line up the bottom edge of the guard with the bottom of the "bowl."
image.jpeg


In this position a hard hit would have the guard supported well and keep it from collapsing the "bowl". But it leaves the protruding area just below the fill hole unprotected as you can see here:

image.jpeg



The second would be to raise it up a bit fully protecting the bowl bit leaving a large gap at the bottom.
image.jpeg
image.jpeg



I bought 2 of these things and want to use them but it pretty clear that they are almost as much work to fit as it would have been to get some 5/16 plate and cut and bend it. Bummer as I carried these all the way to Japan on hopes of saving the labor. And now I really don't have time to start from scratch....


Pete
 
I would mount them as in your first pic. The unprotected area you are concerned about is high enough that you will hit the diff protector first anyway. And it would take a very precise hit from a uniquely shaped rock to hit just that little area. Lastly, I dont know about your driving style, but I try not to bang into rocks, lol.
 
I just installed two of those on a set of full floaters and had to cut and bend them to fit halfway decent. I have two more to install on my 60 and I'm second guessing doing so because I was a bit disappointed with fitment. They are actually too thick in my opinion of they were say 1/4 inch they could be bent to fit much better and still be plenty strong enough. You can check the last few pages of the thread in my signature for my photos. I used steel rod when welding to melt into and fill the cracks.
 
Did you cut them to drain out? Seems like they wouod fill up like a bowl.....

P
 
Yes , notched the bottom with a U shape as well as the location of the fill plug . Those steel pipe caps are super tough - bent an axle housing when I rammed a large rock once , both axle tubes created a nasty toe-out on the rear axle . It was one of "dump the clutch at 6k in reveres " things to get out of a bad situation wheeling ...had to build another axle , ugh .
Sarge
 
Well I'm leaning towards not using these after all but it's down to the wire so I may not have a choice I'm considering getting some 1/4 flat stock or a pipe cap and seeing what I can come up with. Might try cutting/heating/shaping the pipe cap to end up with what I was hoping the ruffstuff unit was in the first place. I'd love to end up with the reinforcement sitting flush to the surface of the housing. But like I said I have a limited window and have to have everything in hand in the next few days.

I hate buying stuff and not using it!

Pete
 
These were designed for the Toyota 8", with some massaging they do fit the 9.5" but if you all think there would be demand for a 9.5" model we will make one.

BTW, Peteinjp, we would gladly take them back or swap them for a new model but that would be about 3 weeks...
 
Dan,

Just to be clear I in no way felt mislead when I purchased these. I knew there would be some bending required to get a good fit. I just took the chance and bought them. However as it turns out they are a little shy in terms of the surface area on the 9.5"

Secondly I appreciate your offer to take these back despite the fact that there is no mistake on your part. I think the cost of shipping them back might make it not worth doing but if I decide to not use them I'll look into it. Even if it just balanced out in the end I'd be glad for someone else to use them instead of just having them sit around. Here in Japan I have no network where I could sell them to someone else.

In terms of placement what is your opinion? I could place them up high and grind and fit a second 3/8 bar to fill the gap and support the guard by tying it into the base.

If I were to design a cover as a vendor I think I would just offer an entire replacement for the bowl. With the size of the compound curves it seems it would be difficult to get a cover to fit well enough if only bent in single planes. I suppose it could be done if one were to add vertical welded seam in the middle of the "wing." But of course you would know better than I. If there was an option on the market for something that would replace the entire rear bowl. Basically a weld on version of your semi-float cover might gain some interest and wouldn't require to you to retool.

What I would like to see in a weld on guard is a thinner guage piece that arches all the way from top to bottom over the ring and also has wings like the 8" version that you sell but that fully cover the 9.5 axle.

Pete
 
@pjohnson- I've already bent 2 stock bumpers and placed that dent visible in the housing under the drain plug. I get off the beaten track down by the rivers in the grass and in deep snow. Those river rocks just seach me out! I have a 4plus channel to go on the front to protect the oem winch and with these covers worked out I'll be on on to the rocker panel protection next.

Pete
 
I see the dent now that I look again. Maybe the pipe cap method would work best for you.
 
Dan Fredrickson said:
These were designed for the Toyota 8", with some massaging they do fit the 9.5" but if you all think there would be demand for a 9.5" model we will make one.

BTW, Peteinjp, we would gladly take them back or swap them for a new model but that would be about 3 weeks...
Click to expand...

I've been searching as well for a front diff guard solution. The 8" option you have advertised is as close as anyone can get. That and the 10" pipe cap, though, if a 9.5" version of your guard were available at the same price point I think you'd sell a bunch.

When I google 9.5" front diff guard, most of the responses are people searching for an off the shelf weld on piece.

What I'm saying is... I think there is demand; and as posted above, accounting for the small nub and getting a bit more coverage would be worth a few extra bucks.

Thanks
Nick


Sent from my iPhone
 
I like both of your ideas and I spoke to Sam our engineer about them today. He is going to design the same but specifically for a 40 9.5" housing. He is also going to design one very simu;ar to our FJ40 Diferential Cover that would weld on.
 
Personally I'm sayin 5/16 with the ring gear cover arching up to the top. But I'll go with whatever your engineers say will go.

What do you figure on the eta for both the weld on piece as well as the full bowl replacement units?

Pete
 
Dan Fredrickson said:
I like both of your ideas and I spoke to Sam our engineer about them today. He is going to design the same but specifically for a 40 9.5" housing. He is also going to design one very simu;ar to our FJ40 Diferential Cover that would weld on.
Click to expand...
I'm gathering parts for my axle build, any chance a prototype will be available to purchase?
My alternative is likely going to be trying the pipe cap method to fab my own, though I'm sure CAD software, good nc cutters, and a brake press can make something a lot prettier than I can come up with..


Sent from my iPhone
 
I have someone that will be building these for 9.5 rear ends and I will either post them up for him or will post up a link I will not be a middle man in the sense that I am trying to make any profit, only doing this to help a friend with a fab business. they will be 1/4 plate and should have an eta of 2 weeks. pm me with questions.
 
Dan Fredrickson said:
I like both of your ideas and I spoke to Sam our engineer about them today. He is going to design the same but specifically for a 40 9.5" housing. He is also going to design one very simu;ar to our FJ40 Diferential Cover that would weld on.
Click to expand...

I'm in for a pair. I've been lucky so far.
 
When I called in about returning the ones I have I was told that as of yet there is no solid eta on the 9.5" version and that i should not base my calendar on a decision being made soon.

pete
 
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