I tested the starter before putting it in, it engaged, retracted and spun. I got everything buttoned back up and I'm still getting just a click. I think it could be the battery? I got the click for a bit then nothing. I tried to jump it and got the click again but couldn't get it to fire up. My voltmeter read 11-12v on the battery. Effffffffffff. Any suggestions other than taking the battery somewhere to get tested... Is that what it sounds like the problem is? All the interior lights still work, as do the locks.
RTH: won't start post starter rebuild... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter petrotk40
- Start date
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staggrlee
GOLD Star
Try to get a socket on your main crank pulley and wiggle it back and forth? Maybe the starter gear is stuck/engaged with the flywheel?
when it clicks does everything else go completely dark? thinking it's a cable issue. something's either loose or corroded.
- Thread starter
- #5
thinking back on when I tried to start it, most of the lights stayed on. The center stack (radio/clock/ac) lights went off but I think the dash and dome lights stayed on. I will try the first suggestion too. If I was trying to jump it from a small car like a Jetta, it should still work regardless of the battery size of the other car, right?
does this sound like it could be a starter relay issue? I probably ought to test that too.
jeez, I wan to get this figured out but am stuck at work. I am supposed to take to Baertrax Thursday to talk tube bumper...
does this sound like it could be a starter relay issue? I probably ought to test that too.
jeez, I wan to get this figured out but am stuck at work. I am supposed to take to Baertrax Thursday to talk tube bumper...
Clean the battery terminals and cable lugs first. If there is corrosion there its quite possible even a jump from another vehicle won't help much.
When you bench tested it did the plunger push the starter gear out and then retract when power was disconnected?
When you bench tested it did the plunger push the starter gear out and then retract when power was disconnected?
- Thread starter
- #7
yes it engaged and retracted and spun. the blue cover on one of the terminals broke off, is that a problem? Also, a clip for terminal 50 I believe it's called snapped, but I secured with some electrical tape... I guess I probably ought to test the battery under load, I didn't check the voltage when cranking.
- Thread starter
- #8
So it's not the battery. And it's not the starter relay. I turn the key and all the lights stay on, just nothing else. No fuel pumps no nothing. Not even a click anymore. I couldn't get a wrench on the main crank, what size bolt is that?
how sure are you that you didn't blow a fuse?
staggrlee
GOLD Star
Once you had a click => power to the solenoid. Now no click.
Two problems now? No power to solenoid due to toasted solenoid, blown fuse, bad ground, relay...
You almost have to work backwards at this point: remove starter and ensure that it works solo, put it in contact with flywheel and inline with starter circuit and hot wire it from the battery to see if it kicks, hook it up to ignition and see if it all works together???
Two problems now? No power to solenoid due to toasted solenoid, blown fuse, bad ground, relay...
You almost have to work backwards at this point: remove starter and ensure that it works solo, put it in contact with flywheel and inline with starter circuit and hot wire it from the battery to see if it kicks, hook it up to ignition and see if it all works together???
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- Thread starter
- #11
Ok, so going backwards through the battery and fuses and relay, I now have the fuel pump making noise and the starter is clicking. Maybe I just didn't hear it from inside the car the other day. Nevertheless, it sounds like the starter is engaging but just not turning... Looks like I'm in for another tear down Saturday.
What does the problem sound like now?
I really appreciate the help guys. Sorry for being such a n00b.
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is the starter buzzing? usually that's the sound of a weak battery. it's odd that it would spin on the bench but not on the truck. i'm still thinking current has something to do with this. keep in mind you can show 12V but still not have enough amperage to flow the starter if the battery is old/compromised or if there is high resistance in the connections (corrosions, looseness).
- Thread starter
- #13
nope, no buzzing. Just a click. How fast is it supposed to spin? When I tested it spun very slowly, much slower than I thought it would at least. I tried jumping it and nothing changed. I tested the voltage while turning the key and it stayed right at 11-12V. I cleaned the terminals and tested the voltage back from the clamps, not directly on the battery. I guess the best thing to do now is just take it all apart and test it again.
The only thing I can think of that might have affected it was I forgot I had hooked the battery back up after working on it one night so the next day when I went to put the starter in after testing, I got a spark. Not sure what that could have done tho?
staggrlee
GOLD Star
Try removing the fusible link from the battery + terminal and underneath find the starter connector. Using jumper cables directly from the battery to the starter connection, does it turn over???
If not then the problem is at the starter or in the cabling from the starter to the battery.
If not then the problem is at the starter or in the cabling from the starter to the battery.
- Thread starter
- #15
I will give the a shot, thanks! What do I clamp the negative jumper cable to?
i hate to add to any confusion, but is it possible that the security system is taking over? i've been told that the security/alarm system is fairly complicated on these trucks, and there is a proper procedure for disconnecting/reconnecting the battery (involving the key and ignition switch). i have a post about this on another thread (related more to my previous alarm problem), it might be worth considering for a second...
- Thread starter
- #17
I think if the car is immobilized, it turns over but just doesn't fire up. I could be mistaken tho?
if it were immobilized you wouldn't be hearing a click from the solenoid.
staggrlee
GOLD Star
No it's pretty simple really. If the chip in the key/fob isn't in range of the transponder at the ignition, it won't start, it won't even try to engage the solenoid.
You can disconnect batteries all day and reconnect them and it starts right up. At least on a 2000 MY.
Things may be more complicated for later models.
You can disconnect batteries all day and reconnect them and it starts right up. At least on a 2000 MY.
Things may be more complicated for later models.
I was trying to envision the circuit in my head and it wasn't making sense, but now I got it... Maybe I'll hook it to a nipple if I can't figure it out and I get pissed off
