- Thread starter
- #41
The flange already seems to be bored out
Haha......, you're right. I'll just 'hone' it a little then.
RTH.....what do you guys think it is? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter flintknapper
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Haha......, you're right. I'll just 'hone' it a little then.
- Thread starter
- #42
I will try not to break this record.
- Thread starter
- #44
Wheel bearing service is not time specific, but instead dictated by mileage and usage. That said, it is good to periodically check by lifting the vehicle feeling for movement at 6&12 and 3&9 for any tell-tale signs of movement. We don't put more than 5-6K miles on this vehicle per year (90% highway). No reason (I thought) to remove the DF prior to this.
But had I at least popped the dust cover off and inspected the C-Clip and end splines (in the interim) I might have noticed something was amiss. So.... Mea Culpa.
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I was thinking the exact same thing. Whether there’s any truth behind it or not I’m not knowledgeable enough to determine. But what I do know is on my recent wheel bearing service & thread the DS spindle, bearings, and CV axle were in noticeably worse condition than the PS.
Last edited:
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Why?
Strictly anecdotal- just notice that the spun flanges seem to show up on DS, spline wear in my old axles and flanges were worse on DS than PS, seems Flint has similar. Doesnt make a trend but something I’m starting to pay attention to.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Pardon my ignorance, but I'm no expert on shaft lengths to the front wheels (get your mind out of the gutter!) ....
Are they equal or not? Given the location of the front diff housing, I would suspect the drivers side shaft is longer.
Are they equal or not? Given the location of the front diff housing, I would suspect the drivers side shaft is longer.
They have the same shaft part # either side.
Understand, same reason I haven't touched mine for close to 5 years, but I have front drive shaft removed.
Definitely snap ring gap should be checked- but annually?- Not necessary unless you drive a lot of miles: 20k+ annually.
Typical wheel bearing service (clean out and re-grease wheel bearing, re-set preload, grease knuckle spindle bearings, check snap ring gap etc) interval would be around 30k for standard use, and for severe conditions (lots of dust, dirt & water, towing, wheeling etc) would be considerably less maybe 15-20k YMMV.
Typical wheel bearing service (clean out and re-grease wheel bearing, re-set preload, grease knuckle spindle bearings, check snap ring gap etc) interval would be around 30k for standard use, and for severe conditions (lots of dust, dirt & water, towing, wheeling etc) would be considerably less maybe 15-20k YMMV.
- Thread starter
- #55
Glad this was the issue!
- Thread starter
- #58
Me too.
Easy fix that is part of some maintenance I was going to do anyway and already have all the parts for.
The 'symptoms' rather suggested a stripped Drive Flange, but there were other possibilities (some of them not so pleasant).
Often with a nasty diff and a locked center you don't get any noise because all the parts are rotating together more or less with the wheels, when you unlock all the power goes to the break and things just spin making nasty sounds.
The A and B conditions you describe are common when parking lot testing and you have a failure in any of the following: propshft/diff/axleshaft/drive hub.
Unfortunately front diffs do sometimes fail under normal conditions.
Given you thought the sound was under center I was confidant it would be the diff and not the T-case or Trans after eliminating any CV stuff... I have seen more bad diffs than flanges or CV's so went there based on sound. Really glad I was wrong here and it was the flange!
