RTH: Removing the starter... (1 Viewer)

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BEG

Joined
Jul 21, 2016
Threads
9
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801
Location
Mount Holly, NJ
Well, I'm the thick of it now. Monday morning is fast approaching and this is where I'm at:

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I got the two 14mm mounting bolts and the 12mm wire box bolts out and soaked it overnight in PB blaster. Finally got it to budge. Now I'm stuck figuring how to undo the lug and connector. Is there anything else holding the yellow box in? How the heck do I get it open without destroying it? Also, the ground lug bolt is frozen solid even after overnight soaking. I already broke 3 out of the 4 lower drivers side valve cover bolts (figured I'd take care of that while everything was accessible) so I'm not looking forward to another one.
 
Get a cover over those intake ports!

Yellow plastic part stays in. You need to remove the hard coolant line to the left (if viewing your photo) or PS of the starter. Then it will wiggle out.
 
No need to remove the yellow box. Pry open the cover of the yellow box, undo the 12 mm nut in there. No need to remove the ground lug on the block. Starter can be removed without disconnecting coolant hard line.
Any tips on removing the nut? The yellow box has a collar around that nut making it hard to slip a socket on it.
 
Any tips on removing the nut? The yellow box has a collar around that nut making it hard to slip a socket on it.

Try a 1/4" drive 12mm socket.
 
There is a 12mm bolt on back of yellow box. It threads into back of starter. Remove it and pull starter out a few inches and turn about 10 degrees CCW. This gives easy access to the nut holding wire on, under the plastic lid.
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The wire housing blocks are brittle. They break all the time. Many Dealership have in stock. Once you have a new one in hand. You'll get clues on how to replace.
 
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There is a 10mm or 12mm bolt on back of yellow box. It threads into back of starter. Remove it and pull starter out a few inches and turn about 10 degrees CCW. This gives easy access to the nut holding wire on, under the plastic lid.
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The wire housing blocks are brittle. They break all the time. Many Dealership have in stock. Once you have a new one in hand. You'll get clues on how to replace.
Thanks. I did remove the bolt from the wire housing. Just not much slack to play with to turn it sideways and get a wrench on that nut.
 
Yeah it's tight and can be frustrating. But just that little bit make easier to remove and too install.

Late, but this may help next person that reads this. I remove the 10mm bolt on transmission, that holds wiring housing cluster bracket. Make getting to to DS 14mm mounting bolt much easier.

My biggest concern with this job, is dirt/sand. I go to great lengths to keep sand out of intake ports. My final step before place new gasket on, with white tips up. Is to vacuum the intake ports. I use a shop vacuum and size down the vacuum hose to fit all the way to valves. I've seem many compression issue after starter jobs, which is from sand falling into ports.
 
Yeah it's tight and can be frustrating. But just that little bit make easier to remove and too install.

Late, but this may help next person that reads this. I remove the 10mm bolt on transmission, that holds wiring housing cluster bracket. Make getting to to DS 14mm mounting bolt much easier.

My biggest concern with this job, is dirt/sand. I go to great lengths to keep sand out of intake ports. My final step before place new gasket on, with white tips up. Is to vacuum the intake ports. I use a shop vacuum and size down the vacuum hose to fit all the way to valves. I've seem many compression issue after starter jobs, which is from sand falling into ports.
I did remove the bolt holding the wiring bracket to the trans. I couldn't get to the DS bolt without moving the wires out of the way. Good tip in the vacuuming of the ports. I've got everything soaking for the night and will get back to it tomorrow. Still need to figure out how to remove the broken valve cover bolts.
 
Still need to figure out how to remove the broken valve cover bolts.
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