RTH: Rear spring seat shock bolt size? And help with putting a shock back on. (1 Viewer)

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Jul 8, 2009
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Location
NW NJ and Western MA
OK, so I'm banging my truck up pretty good building a road up a hill for my cabin. I came down the hill last weekend with the rear passenger shock hanging down. I found that the post that the bottom of the shock mounts to sheared off. I got another spring seat. I pulled off the other driver rear shock so I could see what bolt I'd need. Who knows if that bolt was original.

Here's dilemma number 1: I took that "good" bolt to sears and went thru the drawers and found a nut that worked on it, and then matched the nut to a new bolt that i can size to length. I just got to where my truck is and found the package with my replacement spring seat. I try both bolts (the new one and the old one I pulled from the drivers side so I could get a match). Now the spring seat female threads look ok on the replacement - it's too dark to run out to the dark ass driveway to take the new bolt and test it in the working mounted drive side spring seat. I guess my question is, what's the size and pitch and other details on the actual bolt that goes into the spring seat and hold the lower rear shocks on?!

Dillemma number 2: so now I have both shocks hanging. I intend to fix in the AM or whenever I get bolts that work. 1.5 hr roundtrip to get bolts... So any advice on how to:
A: replace rear passenger spring seat?
B: get the shocks to go back on?

Appreciate the help from mud land information repository. We have a tractor that can lift, jacks, more jacks, chains, come-alongs and yankee ingenuity so what do you all think?
 
Well, wrong spring seat sent so no rush for an answer...
 
You can always use you old spring seat and weld a new bolt on?
Quick fix and Alaskan ingenuity.

2 cents!
 
I'm actually looking to buy a welder or whatever they're called. What would you recommend for an FJ62, and old Checy dumptruck, case tractor and various other sundry farm/contruction equipment?

And you're correct. If I could weld, I would just fix the part I have. I ground the old post off and have a nice clean rugged surface to weld to. Then I could weld a bolt on and put a sleeve on it and put the shock bushing on there.

Off to craigslist since I can't do a darned thing with my truck.
 
OK, all fixed. I ground out the old post. Boy what a PIA. Between my neighbor and me we found a nice thick bolt just that size diameter and used 3 nuts and some washers to replicate the welded post. And then of course he tells me he has a stick welder he wants to get rid of and will let me test it first.

Go yankees. Or Red Sox. Ah screw it, I'm gonna go wheel now.

Appreciate everyones responses.
 
pick up a 110 mig welder at the "deep homo" ......I mean home depot. there only 300 - 450 bucks and so worth it. then you can move up to a dual shield or even an arc/stick welder. The welder will pay for its self after the first welding job!


PORK ROLL RULES!....by the way
 
Yeah, thanks for the encouragement on the MIC 100v. I may do that. Gotta see if this old stick welder works. We certainly use a good welding machine and some skills. Got a guy down to 750 on a Hobart 187 with cart, 2 spools, jacket, helmet, and other small items. We'll see.

And hell yes Pork Roll rules. Taylor ham is what we call in it NJ and it;s more readily available there but up near her in western Mass, there's a pork butcher that has some real canadian bacon. OMFG, life is good when you're near a pork butcher.
 

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