RTH: Parking Brake Adjustment Help (1 Viewer)

StaticTorque

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Last weekend I replaced all the springs and everything inside the “drum” and also replaced the e brake shoes. I did not adjust it then. Adjusting it right now but need help. After I had replaced everything, my e brake can be pulled almost all the way back to the cup holder, or in measurement talk, about 20 clicks. I have the rotor on, adjusted the star adjuster to expand the shoes till I couldn’t anymore, then backed it off like it says in the FSM. But my e brake pull is still the same. I’ve tried adjusting the bellcrank, but it doesn’t make sense as when the e brake is pulled, the bellcrank bolt would be almost all the way out.
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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Rigging begins at the bell crank and progresses up to the cab handle. Did you follow the manual from the beginning?

There is adjustability at the in cab handle.

Cables might be stretched.
 

StaticTorque

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Rigging begins at the bell crank and progresses up to the cab handle. Did you follow the manual from the beginning?

There is adjustability at the in cab handle.

Cables might be stretched.
I have not done anything inside the cab as I didn’t replace anything in there. But I know that the e brake handle adjustment is before the adjustment at the rear axle. Should I do the handle 1st, then adjust the stuff on the axle?
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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Correct rigging at the wheels and everywhere between the wheels and the cab should be done first. How was it working prior to overhaul?
 

StaticTorque

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Yes. The e brake lever would only pull up maybe halfway of what it does now. But it engaged fully. I could park on a hill and it’d hold me, now it’ll just roll. Was replacing rear calipers, rotors, and pads. Decided to do the e brake as well. I have to pull the handle almost all the way before it’ll actually angage.
 

StaticTorque

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Yes I did turn it the correct way. Adjusted it as tight as I could, then backed it off 8 notches. No they are not. They’re from rock auto. Yeah yeah, I know it’s not OEM. Everything else I’ve done to this rig has been OEM. Except pads and rotors.
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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Hard to say about your shoes. The stuff I’ve bought from Rockauto has been good. How about adjusting the shoes as tightly as possible and then adjust them in only as clicks as necessary rather than the FSM spec if 8 clicks.
 

StaticTorque

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If they weren’t good, I’m sure he wouldn’t have recommended I buy them. He’s all about buying OEM parts, so I know he wouldn’t steer me wrong. So adjust the star adjuster and see if that fixes my clicks? Because it did go to about 9 clicks before I replaced everything.
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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At this point I would adjust the shoes until they are tight in the drum then back them off testing for shoe to drum clearance every couple clicks.
 

StaticTorque

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At this point I would adjust the shoes until they are tight in the drum then back them off testing for shoe to drum clearance every couple clicks.
I’ll do that before ripping the center console out and mess with that nightmare that it seems to be lol. Thank you for your input.
 

StaticTorque

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Even after adjusting the brake lever all the way, still have a huge pull on the e brake. Think I might need a new cable...?
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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Did you adjust the shoes until the lever pull is acceptable and then see how much they drag in the drum? You may have to for né the shoes to conform to the drum. Or, buy new cables then you’ll in a all your parts are good.
 

StaticTorque

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The shoes never really changed the pull of the lever. It changed them by about 4-5 clicks. The when I adjusted the lever all the way, it changed to about 13 clicks. Still not where it should be. So I’m lost on what to do next, or if I’m messing something up.
 
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I would bet you’re adjusting the shoes in the wrong direction. If someone has been in there before, the could easily have put the adjuster in the opposite direction. Try adjusting it fully in the other direction and see what happens. One side may be correct or both may be backwards.
 

StaticTorque

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I would bet you’re adjusting the shoes in the wrong direction. If someone has been in there before, the could easily have put the adjuster in the opposite direction. Try adjusting it fully in the other direction and see what happens. One side may be correct or both may be backwards.
I would agree to that, but I do know which way they go. I replaced all the springs and everything. Not to shut you down or anything. I appreciate your input. I also put the star wheels in the same way the old ones came out. DS you spin down to loosen, PS you spin up to loosen.
 

alia176

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one test would be to remove the calipers and safely hang them out of the way. Then, try to slide off or rotate the drums/rotors after adjusting the adjuster thing to see how things feel. You'll get a definite feel for the amount of pull vs the amount of drag. Put the Tcase in Neutral first!
 
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I'm doing this today on a 1994 FF rear w/abs following a Haynes manual procedure... I stripped the rear brakes down to the splash shield and rebuilt using the cable that was there and in good shape about 1 year ago and parking brake did not hold well since. Did not use OEM hard ware for parking brake stuff, except for the bell cranks and pins. Decided today was the right opportunity to get to it. I had to release the cable at the handle completely in order to get the adjusters and bell cranks equalized (did all of this with rotors on). Had to clamp rotors down with two 12mm X 1.5mm nuts (learned this on my 4runner...) 180 degrees apart on each side. You can't get the right pad adjustment without the rotor fully home and then the rotor won't come off without bending/braking the internals if they are set right. After about 4 trial and error cycles of star adjustment and cable tension, which was not at all fun, and only backing off the stars about 5-6 spaces, I'm locking both sides at about 5 handle clicks. I also made ~ 1/2" long spacer out of ~.09 wall SS tube that goes over the cable handle end stud under the nuts to give additional cable adjustment tension in case I needed it. Initially I was bottoming out on the stud because the star adjusters were not far enough advanced. l left the spacer in. I have the FSM and am now going to read it to see if there is any reason to do it over again.
 

alia176

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I replaced the brake shoes and adjusted the star adjuster according to the FSM. I'm a little confused on the bell crank adjustment, however. I'm not sure what role it plays in the whole picture, to be honest. I imagine the bell crank sets the "resting" position of the brake mechanism when the brake handle is released, yes?

When the handle is all the way down, the bell crank is resting on the backing plate. When the handle is cranked the bell crank is pulled out. The tiny adjustment bolt with rubber heads - where should these be? I've seen pics but my feeling is that the bell crank is only at play when the handle is yanked. Adjusting these tiny bolts with rubber pads really plays no role in the # of clicks of the handle, yes? Given that my handle is pulled all the way up and I still have no braking, makes me think I need to remove the handle boot and see how much slack in the cable I can take up. But, taking up the cable slack "feels" like doing a band aid. :hmm:

I know I'm missing some important details so please enlighten me!
 

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