No start after stopping (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 23, 2021
Threads
25
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198
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Nigeria
2004 LX470

Was going out on a trip and the car abruptly stopped while I was slowing down for a speed bump. Car refuses to start. Oil level and pressure is ok. Coolant is ok, no overheating. Battery is at 14 volts. Two nights ago it did this but the the three times that it did (engine shuts off when coming to a stop) it started right back up. The car has 192k kilometers and the timing belt has never been replaced. The timing belt light has been on the dash for the past 13k kilometers. Could it be the timing belt? Also to note, the car doesn't crank at all. Not even a click from the starter. The starter fuse doesn't appear to be broken.
 
Sounds electrical. Check your battery terminals are tight, and trace them back and make sure they are tight on the other end, too.

And change your timing belt...
 
Sounds electrical. Check your battery terminals are tight, and trace them back and make sure they are tight on the other end, too.

And change your timing belt...
Lol yeah, we made it back. Got the car towed back home. Pretty sure it was the starter. If it was the timing belt it should still crank apparently. After struggling to get all the way home, the car started up after (I suppose) the starter cooled down a bit. Guess a starter and timing belt are in order.
 
The starter would not really cause the stalling when coming to a stop. This is a 2uz-fe? USA specs? Cool that you have a timing belt light! I haven't seen those on gassers, mostly the diesel 100 or 70 series trucks with the 1HD or HZ that I've driven.

You don't have any CEL or MIL other than the t-belt light?

I am leaning toward looking at your MAF sensor, but usually that does throw a code at least in OBD2 vehicles here...
 
The starter would not really cause the stalling when coming to a stop. This is a 2uz-fe? USA specs? Cool that you have a timing belt light! I haven't seen those on gassers, mostly the diesel 100 or 70 series trucks with the 1HD or HZ that I've driven.

You don't have any CEL or MIL other than the t-belt light?

I am leaning toward looking at your MAF sensor, but usually that does throw a code at least in OBD2 vehicles here...
Yes, this is a 2UZ-FE but it is Europe spec (dash is in kilometers only, and running the VIN shows it's for General/Europe market). And no, there is no CEL or MIL (check engine light or malfunction indicator lamp respectively right?). The check engine light works (as evidenced by the dash startup sequence) but it does not remain on when driving. Car runs smooth as butter except for this stalling issue when coming to a rest. This stalling is also completely random as far as I can tell, it may be more prone to happen when the car has reached operating temps but I can't say that for certain. I can check Techstream once again, but I checked Techstream about 2 weeks before the first occurrence of this incident and there were no engine related codes. Just a code for the Front Left Ride Height Sensor and the Airbags. I can check for a MAF code later today. If anyone has any other ideas, please send them in. Going to the dealer to spend upward of $600 is going to be a big hassle...:flush:
 
Update:

I checked the MAF Sensor and it isn't throwing any codes in Techstream and appears to be functioning well. Last night, I was coming home and the car started acting up again, slowing to a stop and the car cuts off, push it onto the side of the road, wait about an hour, engine cools down, and it starts up again. Then I was on the highway doing about 65 mph and the car had a big jerk, it felt like the engine went off for a split second then came back, did it again, and then again, and then the car goes off and doesn't jerk back to life, and I have to roll across 3 lanes onto the shoulder where I sat for 4 hours before a tow truck finally showed up. Just got off the phone with a parts salesperson and he recommended to check the Camshaft Position Sensor before going to the starter.

Any thoughts? I have less than six weeks to leave for university and this is the only car we have right now smh. :bang:

Edit: Could there also be any dead fuses or relays that could cause this issue?
 
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Update:

I checked the MAF Sensor and it isn't throwing any codes in Techstream and appears to be functioning well. Last night, I was coming home and the car started acting up again, slowing to a stop and the car cuts off, push it onto the side of the road, wait about an hour, engine cools down, and it starts up again. Then I was on the highway doing about 65 mph and the car had a big jerk, it felt like the engine went off for a split second then came back, did it again, and then again, and then the car goes off and doesn't jerk back to life, and I have to roll across 3 lanes onto the shoulder where I sat for 4 hours before a tow truck finally showed up. Just got off the phone with a parts salesperson and he recommended to check the Camshaft Position Sensor before going to the starter.

Any thoughts? I have less than six weeks to leave for university and this is the only car we have right now smh. :bang:

Edit: Could there also be any dead fuses or relays that could cause this issue?
Starter shouldn't cause a running car to die. Have you looked at the efi fuse under the hood? They are known to melt causing the crank no start situation
 
Starter shouldn't cause a running car to die. Have you looked at the efi fuse under the hood? They are known to melt causing the crank no start situation
Just took a look at it, one of the pins looks like it has some brown coloration at the base (on the plastic) but it doesn't look so bad. There's audible clicking when the key is turned in the car (right before the car refuses to even crank), but I'm not sure which exact relay is working and isn't from just that. Could the starter relay also be an issue?
 
Just took a look at it, one of the pins looks like it has some brown coloration at the base (on the plastic) but it doesn't look so bad. There's audible clicking when the key is turned in the car (right before the car refuses to even crank), but I'm not sure which exact relay is working and isn't from just that. Could the starter relay also be an issue?
Again if the car shuts off while running the starter, starter relay or the fuse shouldn't be the culprit!
There are threads here on the EFI fuse buring out and how to fix it temporarily if you search for it
 
Starter shouldn't cause a running car to die. Have you looked at the efi fuse under the hood? They are known to melt causing the crank no start situation
Checked the EFI fuse (fuse 21 under the hood according to the user manual) and it looked good. Contact wasn't broken and it didn't look colored or anything. It's also worth noting that I don't get any crank at all. No crank, no start. Turn the key in the ignition and a few clicks can be heard from the ignition area, to the fuse box, and that's it.
 
Okay, another update. I can't check the Engine ECU via techstream since the car won't start so I just went to the Repair Manual and on Page DI-34 under "Engine does not crank (Does not start)", the suspected areas were listed as Starter, Starter relay, and Park/neutral position switch.

No clue why/how I didn't do this before but I pulled the actual "STARTER" relay and it looks kinda melted. I've attached a few pictures and you can see the white base is undulating like a sand dune. Also attached a picture of the underside of the fuse box and the EFI relay with the colorization at the base of one of the pins. Thoughts?
IMG_20220711_183753_082.jpg
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Hearing a few clicks, is indicative of:
Low voltage from battery. Make sure you've 12.7V and clean clamps and battery post.
If still getting click, and see dash lights dim as you try to start. It is likely stater contact.
Bad starter contact, or other issue within starter. Will not cause to die once running. A short between battery and cables will. Also check connection at alternator. Loose cables have been issue of many that stop running, and then click no start afterwords.
 
Another update. The saga continues. The car magically started today. I guess it's worth noting that the EFI and STARTER relays were removed for the whole of last night and are (apparently) 100% working (tested the relays by connecting them to a battery and they click every time). Got some shenanigans on video. Also checked Techstream and nothing out of the ordinary as far as my untrained eyes can tell. Everything is below:

Engine ECU Codes (or lack thereof):
No Engine ECU Codes.png


The page above said "DTC Monitors are INCOMPLETE" so I checked that out:
Missing Monitor Info.png


Engine ECU Data list:
Engine ECU Data List.png


Aaaand some ABS codes which I cleared because (I think) they're not an issue anymore but still thought I'd just save them:
ABS-VSC codes.png


And the video:



A short between battery and cables will. Also check connection at alternator. Loose cables have been issue of many that stop running, and then click no start afterwords.
Is there any diagram where I can find the routing of these cables? The alternator looks like it's all the way at the bottom of the engine and I don't wanna go blindly fiddling around.
 
Another update. The saga continues. The car magically started today. I guess it's worth noting that the EFI and STARTER relays were removed for the whole of last night and are (apparently) 100% working (tested the relays by connecting them to a battery and they click every time). Got some shenanigans on video. Also checked Techstream and nothing out of the ordinary as far as my untrained eyes can tell. Everything is below:

Engine ECU Codes (or lack thereof):
View attachment 3057263

The page above said "DTC Monitors are INCOMPLETE" so I checked that out:
View attachment 3057262

Engine ECU Data list:
View attachment 3057261

Aaaand some ABS codes which I cleared because (I think) they're not an issue anymore but still thought I'd just save them:
View attachment 3057260

And the video:




Is there any diagram where I can find the routing of these cables? The alternator looks like it's all the way at the bottom of the engine and I don't wanna go blindly fiddling around.

There are, but I can't supply. Root around in mud and google searches. You should find some wire diagram, in downloadable pdf.

We don't have a T-belt light, kind cool. But I have no idea what it's telling you. Maybe just mile/date activated. It may speak to timing is detected. You need to check your vehicles OM & FSM.

A number of the DTC (codes) are related to low voltage and or short. Clear all codes and see what comes back

Take some very clear picture of front of engine, from top down. I'd like to see routing of wires. Include battery area and fuse box. You have a short!

Please, either list your vehicle: Make, model, yr, miles and engine type in every post. Or put it in the your signture line once, so it will automatically be in all your post. Save time!
 
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paging @Ayune - do yo have a wire diagram for the alternator?
 
A number of the DTC (codes) are related to low voltage and or short. Clear all codes and see what comes back

Take some very clear picture of front of engine, from top down. I'd like to see routing of wires. Include battery area and fuse box. You have a short!
Codes have been cleared but I haven't gotten around to reading them. Past few days been hectic. Today we went on another foolhardy adventure and got stuck on the road again.

However, we either lucked out massively or my dad chanced upon the solution.

We bought some starter relays (albeit used ones) and that didn't fix anything, the car would start but then would die after 5 minutes or so, or it just wouldn't crank at all.

Well, the fuse box has about 3 or 4 cables running from the bottom side of it that connect into a black board which is connected to the positive battery head. One of those cables was loose at its connection. My dad was just randomly checking stuff and stumbled upon it. He connected it back in, that was the only change he made, and the car ran, got back to operating temperature, and didn't randomly shut off or stutter or even blink for a sec. We were able to get back home without a single hiccup (about 30 minute drive). I have attached pictures below.

InkedIMG_20220714_174127_821_LI.jpg

Here is a pic of the black box with the cables connected at the bottom. The circled cable was loose and after it was connected the car ran fine(?).

IMG_20220714_175032_392.jpg

The box itself is pretty beat up. Looks like someone was here before.

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Is this some sort of fuseable link? I have a very faint recollection that (ALLEGEDLY) this went bad over a decade ago and was causing some pretty nasty issues. Idk tho I was only (more of) a kiddo at the time. This fuse-looking board has clearly been worked on though, that blob of solder(?) is a dead giveaway.

Everything was dusted with a dry brush and sprayed down with some electrical spray that has been very handy and useful over the years. The car ran fine and idled normally after all was cleaned and re-assembled. My dad taped that black box with some duct tape (to minimize dust intrusion).

Thoughts?
 
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Update:

Well I guess the problem has been solved; car went over 60 kilometers without missing a beat. For some unknown reason the front fan blower refuses to work. The rear blower works and the A/C is spot on but the blower in front isn't working. There was some condensation/water around the vicinity of the blower itself. Also had the stop light indicator show up on the dash but it went away on its own.

It's always from one problem to the next with this beautiful, beloved beater like a game of whack-a-mole. I think I'll make a different thread for the blower issue, idk.

Thanks all!

Big Cheers! :cheers::cheers: (Fingers crossed lol)
 
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