StaticTorque
SILVER Star
I’m connecting the rod from the rear axle to the LSPV. But I’m wondering is the rod in the rubber boot in the 1st picture supposed to go in between the teeth of the LSPV in picture 2?
RTH: LSPV assembly (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter StaticTorque
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Yes, it goes in the fork.
You can adjust the fork orientation so the rod lines up, I forget how, but you can. I and to when I installed mine.
StaticTorque
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #4
Yeah I couldn’t really see how to either
I think you had to put tension on the snap ring and rotate the fork, but not completely sure.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
The LSBPV is a cylindrical body flow control valve. The piston, which ends in plastic the forks moves up and down in the barrel to open and close the distribution ports inside the valve, and should rotate freely.
Did you get this problem sorted out?
Did you get this problem sorted out?
StaticTorque
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #7
I believe so, I got that bracket on the LSPV without being it. The brake system was very low on fluid and I replaced front calipers. So I did LSPV- PS Rea r- LSPV - DS Rear - PS Front - DS Front. Still squishy pedal lol.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
The proportioning valve requires a two step bleed, since it has two open positions. In theory you can bleed either one first, but I've been successful more often if I push the piston up, bleed the valve, and then let it drop and bleed it again.
This takes two people, unless you have a pressure bleeder (I like Motive's, but that's just my opinion).
Also, if you let the fluid drop below the ports in the master, it has to be "bench" bled before you bleed the lines, although if you're careful (and believe the FSM), you can do it without removing the master cylinder.
Whatever you do, don't turn the ignition on while you're bleeding. I have a feeling (that I can't prove) that he ABS module runs a self test and opens at least one port during that test when the ignition switch is turned from "OFF" to "ON". If the master cylinder is dry, that will let air into the ABS module and then you're mushy forever. Or at least until you figure out how to bled that thing.
This takes two people, unless you have a pressure bleeder (I like Motive's, but that's just my opinion).
Also, if you let the fluid drop below the ports in the master, it has to be "bench" bled before you bleed the lines, although if you're careful (and believe the FSM), you can do it without removing the master cylinder.
Whatever you do, don't turn the ignition on while you're bleeding. I have a feeling (that I can't prove) that he ABS module runs a self test and opens at least one port during that test when the ignition switch is turned from "OFF" to "ON". If the master cylinder is dry, that will let air into the ABS module and then you're mushy forever. Or at least until you figure out how to bled that thing.
