RTH: Heater Tee Broken in Hose (Solved) (1 Viewer)

[mrahc]

Alright, I know, 1000s of threads. Don't have the time right now to sit and scroll so I apologize ahead of time. Anyway.

Went to replace my Tees, first one I go to get out, one side (closest to the firewall) broke inside that hose. Cursed a bit, got the rest of the tee out, and now I'm having issue getting the broken piece out of the hose.
Been trying needle nose pliers, and a flat head to no avail. Any thoughts?
Can I remove that hose and fish it out and then put it back on? I just don't know how long it is. Or is there an easier way I'm not seeing.

About to go get coolant so I can bleed the system once I hopefully finish this tonight.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you.

Hose on the right side looking at the engine bay, closest to/coming out of firewall.

 

[planomateo]

Did it break as you were trying to move the clamp? Looks like its in the normal position.

I used a paint can opener to pull the remaining from my hoses. Had to use this on both the LX and LC when I replaced the heater t's. Worked very well.

 

[mrahc]

Happened as I was trying to shimmy the clamp around to get the pliers to them.

I actually just got the rest with the pliers, typically. Gonna hold off on doing the other one lol

 

[flintknapper]

They go back into the hose about an inch or so. If it won't come out easily (whole) then on your horizontal hoses just take a pair of pliers (or channel locks) and squeeze down on the hose just enough to crush it, then fish out the 'parts'. Don't do that on the vertical hoses because you will lose the small parts down the hose.

The one on the drivers side is the inlet to the heater core and its gets much hotter than the return line. Often times it is more brittle than the one toward the passenger side.

 

[mrahc]

Yeah, I was lucky enough to finally get a larger piece that broke, after a bunch of time ones. Replaced that tee and I'll do the next this week.

I only lost maybe half a cup of coolant, do you suggest bleeding the air/burping it and refilling any that was lost?

 

[flintknapper]

Yeah, I was lucky enough to finally get a larger piece that broke, after a bunch of time ones. Replaced that tee and I'll do the next this week.

I only lost maybe half a cup of coolant, do you suggest bleeding the air/burping it and refilling any that was lost?

No...just watch your coolant temps for the first day. If you don't see a sudden rise in temperature..then you don't have an air pocket. Just replace any lost coolant into your overflow reservoir. Good to go.

 

[mrahc]

No...just watch your coolant temps for the first day. If you don't see a sudden rise in temperature..then you don't have an air pocket. Just replace any lost coolant into your overflow reservoir. Good to go.

Thank you sir

 

[pnolanIH8MUD]

Talk about weakest link, why would Toyota use this crap plastic for these t-s?

Did the repair and ran for 48hrs days leak free. This morning the reservoir dropped 1” and leaked fluids onto the ground. Going to have to either delete the rear heat to return to Austin or see if OKC has parts. I’m thinking cheap clamps or too loose hoses that prevented tight fit.

 

[BullElk]

Well the heater Ts do commonly last 15 years.

To me, a more important change in plans was going to plastic headlights. Ridiculowso.

 

[pnolanIH8MUD]

Agree.

 

[pnolanIH8MUD]

How common are leaks below the vertical lines that connect by the catalytic converter under the driver side?

 

[BullElk]

Never heard of such.

 

[super90]

I've mentioned it before, and, it seems people read over it.....Remove the hoses with the T's in between them, as an assembly. Then, take the assembly apart, once it is in the garage and out of the engine bay. Use the hose clamps to kit together a new assembly and install it in the truck. Lots of problems avoided that way....

 

[pnolanIH8MUD]

I've mentioned it before, and, it seems people read over it.....Remove the hoses with the T's in between them, as an assembly. Then, take the assembly apart, once it is in the garage and out of the engine bay. Use the hose clamps to kit together a new assembly and install it in the truck. Lots of problems avoided that way....

Makes sense but the problem seems to be the rear pipe/lower hose connection. I may remove entire connection as assembly the lower hose clamps are my suspicion. Is the lower hose 1/2”?

 

[leveeguy]

Part numbers may help at some juncture