RTH: Crankshaft pulley bolt (1 Viewer)

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Sandia Park, NM
I'm trying to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt to replace seals and get rid of the front oil leak. I tried the starter bump trick, no luck. Also tried using a 14 mm deep socket wedged up in the flexplate inspection window, but I pulled so hard on the crankshaft bolt that the socket cracked. Any other tricks to try before I fab up a tool to hold the crankshaft pulley using the two small bolt holes?
 
I'm trying to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt to replace seals and get rid of the front oil leak. I tried the starter bump trick, no luck. Also tried using a 14 mm deep socket wedged up in the flexplate inspection window, but I pulled so hard on the crankshaft bolt that the socket cracked. Any other tricks to try before I fab up a tool to hold the crankshaft pulley using the two small bolt holes?
The 14 mm socket MUST be a deep well IMPACT socket, six point, otherwise it won't work.

Otherwise, the next step is a tool from Otramm or make it yourself as you described.
 
Yes - deep well 14mm impact on the flywheel bolt and a long breaker bar to get the crank pulley loose. I accidentally knocked it loose twice leaving the wrench on the bolt while messing with a distributor issue. I will say it became significantly easier to maneuver around in there with the fan/fan clutch and steering damper off.
 
WCBlueSky, If you end up using the 14MM deep well impact socket on the flex plate, don't forget to remove it once you're done reinstalling the crank bolt. Don't laugh, there has been more then a few people who forgot to remove it. And boy o boy were shocked at the LOUD noises coming from the transmission bell housing when they started up their truck.
 
Try the starter trick again..
 
I busted 2 1/2" breaker bars before mine came loose. If you aren't breaking anything or getting the bolt loose on the starter trick then something is wrong.
 
Agreed - the starter trick should work. Or the 14mm on the bolt...but it took a 3/4" breaker bar on mine and pushing with my leg going that route.
 
WCBlueSky, If you end up using the 14MM deep well impact socket on the flex plate, don't forget to remove it once you're done reinstalling the crank bolt. Don't laugh, there has been more then a few people who forgot to remove it. And boy o boy were shocked at the LOUD noises coming from the transmission bell housing when they started up their truck.
Me
 
The 14 mm socket MUST be a deep well IMPACT socket, six point, otherwise it won't work.

Ah no wonder it cracked. Thanks for all the suggestions.
 
Make or buy a holding tool.

You don't risk having a breaker bar go flying off somewhere or a socket coming loose, cracking, getting jammed against the flexplate because you forgot to remove it, etc....

The 'break away' torque on the crank pulley bolt is huge. And later...you'll need to torque it to about 304 lb. ft. so why not just do it the easy (and controlled) way.



CP2.jpg
Otramm holder.jpg
 
Hi, You will need one anyway, impact hammer wrench. Mike

That's what I used to remove mine (impact), but I had the radiator out cleaning it up....so that allowed plenty of room to get in there.
 
Victory! I made a tool to hold the pulley and used a 4 foot cheater pipe on a 3/4-drive breaker bar. The bolt was on there really tight.


Yep,

Folks need to remember that the 'break-away' torque required to remove the bolt (on there 23 years in my case) is much greater than the torque used to install it. Often there is some amount of corrosion between the threads and in some cases a 'thread locker' might also have been used.

So...its wise to securely hold the pulley when removing the bolt....as you did. Good job!
 
Like Flintknapper, I had the radiator out so I had room for an impact wrench. I tried the break bar/starter trick and snapped the breaker bar. Fortunately that was all that broke. Impact took it off with the quickness.
 
The 14 mm socket MUST be a deep well IMPACT socket, six point, otherwise it won't work.

Otherwise, the next step is a tool from Otramm or make it yourself as you described.
this, and put a little masking tape on the socket end, holds it on better
 
Agreed - the starter trick should work. Or the 14mm on the bolt...but it took a 3/4" breaker bar on mine and pushing with my leg going that route.
Disagree. I have had several that were very stubborn for unknown reasons. One I had to use a torch on the bolt and run a straight line to the largest air gun I had. Had to take off the front clip. Never had one that bad again but have had a few where the starter method doesn't work
 

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