RTH: Alternator Suspect Voltage Output (1 Viewer)

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Here's the position I found to sneak the alternator in/out. The major brackets on the alternator casing make it wider than it is long if that makes sense. Smoosh it through all the lines and the lower radiator hose. Now this is for the LX and I was able to swing the sway bar out of the way. Not sure how KDSS would increase/decrease the fun.

1688669358871.png
 
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She's alive!!

Battery was pretty drawn down referencing a voltmeter. 11.9V before starting.

First power up, mucho better. I was looking for 14V+ but perhaps the battery is pulling things down sucking down juice.

Now to get the rest of the details in place, and back on the road-trip!

1688681333551.png
 
TeCKis300 said:
Here's the position I found to sneak the alternator in/out. The major brackets on the alternator casing make it wider than it is long if that makes sense. Smoosh it through all the lines and the lower radiator hose. Now this is for the LX and I was able to swing the sway bar out of the way. Not sure how KDSS would increase/decrease the fun.

View attachment 3367010
Click to expand...

Nice work!

KDSS Should be mostly the same other than having to disconnect the lower end of the front KDSS ram and use a jack or something to lower from it's neutral position before dropping the bar. Many of us are used to the relatively mild force on the end of the KDSS arm when we reinstall our sway bar links because of the leverage it has over the ram. but IMO jacking from the ram itself would be a lot more force.. kindof an interesting thought experiment.

Have you had the brushes out of the old alternator to see how bad off they and the commutators are?
 
TeCKis300 said:
She's alive!!

Battery was pretty drawn down referencing a voltmeter. 11.9V before starting.

First power up, mucho better. I was looking for 14V+ but perhaps the battery is pulling things down sucking down juice.

Now to get the rest of the details in place, and back on the road-trip!

View attachment 3367137
Click to expand...
Helluva job to do on the road. Bravo
 
bloc said:
Have you had the brushes out of the old alternator to see how bad off they and the commutators are?
Click to expand...

Same thought. I do intend to tear the old one down to get a look at the brushes.

FxFormat said:
Damn I have a tough time doing this at my shop with a lift. Good job doing it on your back away from home
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Thanks! Agree this was not an easy job. On par with how unpleasant the starter job is, maybe even worse. Trying to break loose the two lower bolts on the alternator with limited access and limited tools was a bear. I did buy a breaker bar and extended box wrenches. And boy did I wish for my 3/8 Dewalt impact driver at home, for all the lower skid screws. That may need to be a tool I bring on trips from now on.

These few tools in the OE tool kit were clutch for additional leverage and prys.

1688737537816.png
 
Did you have more than the stock bottle jack supporting the truck above your head?
 
32cls6speedmt said:
do you recommend replacing alternator during replacement of radiator?
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I'm getting ready to start the Alternator replacement at 168K. I'll see how it goes. I wish I would have done it when the radiator was out before I dropped the new one in. Glad you asked, I would definitely do it at the same time given the milage I have is about the same as everyone else.
 
04UZJ100 said:
Did you have more than the stock bottle jack supporting the truck above your head?
Click to expand...

Missed this. Yes, not ideal but only stock bottle jack. Mitigations were working on a very level surface with chocking, and putting a tire under the frame rails.

32cls6speedmt said:
do you recommend replacing alternator during replacement of radiator?
Click to expand...

Yes! This would help greatly in regards to having room to remove and install the alternator. I had to make room by removing the sway bar and that would be avoided. Also provide access to get at some pesky bolts.
 
TeCKis300 said:
Yes! This would help greatly in regards to having room to remove and install the alternator. I had to make room by removing the sway bar and that would be avoided. Also provide access to get at some pesky bolts.
Click to expand...

Would radiator out make the job easier to the point that it’s simpler to remove the radiator even if not being replaced?
 
bloc said:
Would radiator out make the job easier to the point that it’s simpler to remove the radiator even if not being replaced?
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Not necessarily as there's a bit of disassembly in removing the radiator, shroud, and dealing with fluid. I would remove the AHC sway bar before messing with the radiator. Caveat is that I have no sense whether KDSS would more difficult to the degree that it's worth removing the radiator? I think someone was able to get the alternator out by just removing the shroud?

I'll say part of my difficulty was not having good access tools at my disposal. It would have taken 50% less effort with a proper set of familiar tools.
 
TeCKis300 said:
I'll say part of my difficulty was not having good access tools at my disposal. It would have taken 50% less effort with a proper set of familiar tools.
Click to expand...

Great point.
 
I'm at 135k on 2013 LX right now. I need to swap the radiator soon as the stress crack at the top is present.
I have a new OEM Toyota Brush Holder here ready to be installed into the existing Alternator. I'm very torn as to whether I should just order a new Alternator from Toyota and swap entire unit out vs. just installing brushes. TeCKis300 in another thread mentioned that his brushes still had life in it meaning the Rectifier or Voltage Regulator was the failure component. It is hard to tell from the pictures, but the rectifier and voltage regulator look like one unit. Is that correct?

Toyota doesn't sell the Rectifier/Regulator components individually as standalone parts for this unit, so this is what makes me lean towards purchasing a new Toyota Denso Alternator while they're still in existence and not just a Denso Reman version.

For my 3rd Gen 4runner 3.4 liter, I was able to order a new rectifier from Toyota, but this is not the case for the gas 5.7 08-16 200 series.
 
I wouldn't go through the hassle of changing the brush pack, without also changing the bearings...they too have 135k of wear. Any alternator shop will sell the regulator and rectifier as individual components, but if you're changing the regulator, rectifier, brushes, and bearings...all that's left is rotor, stator, and casing...so you might as well buy a new alternator.
 
My alternator install is coming up soon. @TeCKis300 what torque did you use for the alternator mounting bolts? Do you by any chance have a pointer to the install manual? TIA!🙃
 
FrazzledHunter said:
MANY thanks! I would have guessed 34 for the bolts LOL!
Alternator is scheduled for delivery today.
I have the belts.
Installation is scheduled for 12/26. 😱

Is there by any chance a FSM set of instructions for alternator removal?
Click to expand...

Happy to but looks like the site is down ATM. Will check back.
 
TeCKis300 said:
Happy to but looks like the site is down ATM. Will check back.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I really appreciate it. This alternator upgrade is proving to be a bit of a nail-biter and I want to get at least the Toyota suggested approach to the mechanic. I just got the new one today, btw.
 
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