Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (2 Viewers)

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Found an abandoned train. Was cool that it was made at the Alco plant in my hometown:

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Then I was testing front digs in a dirt lot and found my weak spot. Damn transfer case. Yes, we dug up all the contaminated soil.

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Some other guys had carnage the next day:

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Saw this beaut on the way home.

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I'll get moonshine fixed up and back on the road in a month or two, likely with a different transfer case.
 
Take this with a grain of salt because I've been sorting out my new/recent IP configuration but when stepping up from 37s to 40s I did notice an increase in EGTs, a reduction in MPGs, and it's not as quick. Same when I played with @brokenparts 42s for a month and that was on my old pump set up. I run 4.10s. It's still quite a bit faster than the old 2F and still gets better mileage. I really don't have issues getting on the freeway or motoring around town, it's just me wanting more power to take down minivans. So it's doable but gearing to 4.56s or 4.88 would be better. I'm stuck at 4.10s because of the carrier break on the locker I put up front.

More boost duh... oh wait you've done that. Oh wait, you did that again.

Hmmm more cylinders? :devil:
 
I would not recommend driving any distance on the road with 39s or larger. If 42" all terrains that could be balanced for road use existed, I'd want 4.10s at least, if not 4.88s. 2000rpm in 4th gear was something like 68mph.

Rig is looking sick Johnny!

IMHO my 42" MTRs aren't too bad. I drive them for 6-7 hours on the highway at 65-80 no problem. 4.88s and a .7 4th gear lockup puts me at ~1900rpm at 70mph.
 
Maybe then it's the TSLs :lol:

What beadlocks are you running @Jason Andrews ?

@GLTHFJ60 Fake ones! I have the Level 8 Bully Pros. They do have internal bead "humps" you can see that are supposed to help keep the bead. I haven't ever tried to run them below 10psi. When I had 37 and 39" IROKS I always managed to slash sidewalls on rocks when I go low enough to get lots of sidewall bulge. I've read lots of people reporting problems balancing full beadlocks to ride nice on the road.
 
Talk to me about NWF EcoBox and NP205s. @mr jits is selling his setup to go to an atlas, and I'm thinking it'll be a perfect fit for Moonshine. Doubler is good, more gear reduction than I have currently, looks like strength is on-par with the atlas with 32 spline outputs. Drivetrain length will have to change, but being a 60, I think I've got room for it. Cost is about a grand less than an atlas setup for my truck. I was going to have to refabricate a bunch of stuff going to an atlas, so that's not really a problem for me.

Any downsides I'm not seeing?
 
Any costly adapters to go from his tranny to your tranny?

And yes, plenty of room under the FJ60 for a doubler.
 
From what I can tell from nwf's site, it'll bolt up, just need to buy a 29spline np241 input gear.
 
Doubler is good, more gear reduction than I have currently,
You still running stock 60 axles?

They’re not going to like all your low end toque, big tires, heavy right foot and the added gear reduction of a doubler. I’m not trying to jinx you but you might want to factor in aftermarket axles when comparing cost.
 
You still running stock 60 axles?

They’re not going to like all your low end toque, big tires, heavy right foot and the added gear reduction of a doubler. I’m not trying to jinx you but you might want to factor in aftermarket axles when comparing cost.

Have had a d60/14b for about 4 years now. Arbs front and rear, front has chromo axles.
 
Any costly adapters to go from his tranny to your tranny?

And yes, plenty of room under the FJ60 for a doubler.

Mike, how long is your rear driveshaft? Looks like this doubler setup is about a foot longer than my D300. Somewhat worried about rear driveshaft angles.
 
Off the top of my head it's around 2' plus. I'll have to get an actual measurement for you but the angle is pretty good. I suppose the difference will be that mines a passenger drop from the split case which places it lower than having the center drop from the 205. In your setup you probably would have more angle than me.
 
Did some rough measuring, looks like I'd have a ~27" driveshaft (39" currently) with this ecobox/205 setup, and roughly a 14" height difference from rear output to rear driveshaft.

Lots and lots of the floor will have to be cut out :lol:
 
If I did the math right (it's be a while since I've used SOHCAHTOA) using 39" length and 14" height your current driveshaft angle is ~21 degrees. Using 27" length and 14 height your new driveshaft angle would be ~31 degrees.

Remind me, are you using a DC joint in the rear driveshaft? It looks like it from the pinion angle on the previous pic on this page.
 
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Yes, DC rear driveshaft.

EDIT: Maybe I need to take some better height measurements, because 21* would max out my current 1350DC driveshaft based on my reading. Haven't had any issues with it to date.
 
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Just paid @mr jits !! Ecobox and NP205 here I come.
 

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