Rotted rear shock mounts (1 Viewer)

[Dan Skye]

sorry if this is redundant or annoying I don’t get on here much couldn’t find a way to search threads.
I am in a pickle because my shock mounts driver side rear are both rusted out. I’m hoping the pros could lend a hand as to where I can source a “cut off” one to weld back on or fabricates them?.
This is a great site!
I really appreciate everyone on here &how much I’ve learned so far!

 

[voodu3]

You can still get the top mount plate from Toyota. 1992-1998 Toyota Land Cruiser Shock Absorber Bracket 48517-60011 | Toyota Parts - https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-shock-absorber-bracket-4851760011?c=Zz1yZWFyLXN1c3BlbnNpb24mcz1yZWFyLXN1c3BlbnNpb24mbD0xNiZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPXRveW90YSZvPWxhbmQtY3J1aXNlciZ5PTE5OTYmdD1iYXNlJmU9NC01bC1sNi1nYXM%3D
I’d check with @slow95z to see if he has a housing with a good base he could send you.

 

[BILT4ME]

You can still get the top mount plate from Toyota. 1992-1998 Toyota Land Cruiser Shock Absorber Bracket 48517-60011 | Toyota Parts - https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-shock-absorber-bracket-4851760011?c=Zz1yZWFyLXN1c3BlbnNpb24mcz1yZWFyLXN1c3BlbnNpb24mbD0xNiZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPXRveW90YSZvPWxhbmQtY3J1aXNlciZ5PTE5OTYmdD1iYXNlJmU9NC01bC1sNi1nYXM%3D
I’d check with @slow95z to see if he has a housing with a good base he could send you.

Unfortunately, @slow95z is not very available due to family issues.

You can also check with @arcteryx for parts like this.

Also check with local club members to see if someone is parting out one, or even the classifieds above in the WTB section.

 

[slow95z]

Unfortunately, @slow95z is not very available due to family issues.

And to think he is friends with me and the wife on Facebook and knows better than most on here yet still tags me by instinct

 

[Dan Skye]

Thanks guys I sincerely appreciate you taking out the time to help me pull it out of the ditch as it were. Really great group of people on here you are the best

 

[Kernal]

@Dan Skye : can you post up photos of the rusted shock mounts?

 

[Dan Skye]

This is the bracket seen from where the flange where the shock attaches is supposed to be. Drilling out and adding a new bolt alone will not be sufficient to properly secure the shock to the axle

 

[LandLocked93]

What are we looking at? Is that a piece of bolt still in the bolt hole?
All I see is surface crud.

 

[LandCruiser65]

What are we looking at? Is that a piece of bolt still in the bolt hole?
All I see is surface crud.

The entire stud sheared off flush. Zoom in.

 

[Dan Skye]

What are we looking at? Is that a piece of bolt still in the bolt hole?
All I see is surface crud.

Sorry for the confusing picture
that round thing is where the flange was attached that the end of the lower part of rear shock would go over to secure it to the axle.
came apart well going 65; pretty hellish experience because it tore up the tire instantly

 

[1973Guppie]

I would drill that out and then weld in a piece of threaded pipe the same diameter as the stock piece. Is the other side ok? you can use that as a reference. Good luck!

 

[Broski]

Dan Skye
1) are you able to weld / fabricate ?
2) Is the mount in the picture solid ? It’s hard to tell in the picture. It looks just dirty and greasy to me.
3) If the answer to 1 & 2 are yes
I would start with a small pilot bit and drill the center of the stud that snapped off, the stud go’s all the way through the mount you can see where it’s welded in the back.
Then start in the center in the back and drill tell you hit the first hole you drilled.
Then step up a few sizes and drill all the way through from one side or the other.
After that you can just increase the size a few times tell your to the correct size to fit your shock.
Then you just need a bolt with a long enough shoulder to go all the way through the mount and stick out enough to mount the shock.
Leave enough sticking out the back for a good weld. And a enough in the front for the weld also.
You could also chamfer to holes on both sides to help keep the weld flat and still get good penetration.
If this all sounds foreign to you then you need a fabricator.
Hope this helps !

 

[Dan Skye]

I would drill that out and then weld in a piece of threaded pipe the same diameter as the stock piece. Is the other side ok? you can use that as a reference. Good luck!

That sounds like a very good idea. I truly appreciate you taking the time to reach out and help with a great suggestion. I’m actually stuck with what my mechanic says that is he is only willing to weld on another part because he does not have the welding chops to fabricate as you indicate. Someone named Alex is working with me on the parts so far he seems like a godsend reasonable and professional and getting me out of the ditch for this issue. Again thank you so much for your suggestion

 

[Pascoscout]

The best fix would be to remove the flat square part and fabricate a new mount. Use 3/16 plate, make a new square, drill a hole in it to weld on a new stud, correct length, threaded to accept a correct size bolt (12mm if I recall). The hole should allow the stud to pass through the plate so it can be welded on the backside as well as the front, same as the factory mount.

I would not just surface weld on a new stud, it will shear off.

 

[Broski]

The best fix would be to remove the flat square part and fabricate a new mount. Use 3/16 plate, make a new square, drill a hole in it to weld on a new stud, correct length, threaded to accept a correct size bolt (12mm if I recall). The hole should allow the stud to pass through the plate so it can be welded on the backside as well as the front, same as the factory mount.

I would not just surface weld on a new stud, it will shear off.

That is not how the factory stud is mounted !!

As you can see the stud passes through both sides for the boxed mount and that's how it gets it's strength.

The plate in the front is there to help support the front of the stud / bolt were it will see the most force.

Removing the hole mount will be the most work as you can't get to the out side weld.

I don't think anyone has suggested surface welding a new stud, but your right it's a bad idea

 

[Broski]

In any case GOOD LUCK I'm done !!

 

[Pascoscout]

That is not how the factory stud is mounted !!

As you can see the stud passes through both sides for the boxed mount and that's how it gets it's strength.
View attachment 3126956
The plate in the front is there to help support the front of the stud / bolt were it will see the most force.

Removing the hole mount will be the most work as you can't get to the out side weld.

I don't think anyone has suggested surface welding a new stud, but your right it's a bad idea

Ahhh. Well in that case you could grind down the remaining stud on both side flush with the bracket. As long as there is not weld in the insides of those plates you should be able to pound out the stud with a punch and hammer. Have a machine shop make you a new one, put it in the hole, weld both ends, done.

I thought I read his mechanic wanted to just weld on a new one. I could have misunderstood.

 

[Dan Skye]

Ahhh. Well in that case you could grind down the remaining stud on both side flush with the bracket. As long as there is not weld in the insides of those plates you should be able to pound out the stud with a punch and hammer. Have a machine shop make you a new one, put it in the hole, weld both ends, done.

I thought I read his mechanic wanted to just weld on a new one. I could have misunderstood.

The latest word is I’m getting a new bracket from Alex on here to weld onto the existing axle with some reinforcement .should do the trick.. once again I truly appreciate everybody who reached out to help me with this mess !
great bunch of people on here