Rotors warping very quickly? (1 Viewer)

[eatSleepWoof]

I got my '14 with 38,000km on the odometer. By the time I got it home (~300km drive), I had noticed brake pedal pulsing, a typical indicator of warped rotors. The pads were wearing down too, so this summer I replaced both pads and rotors front and back. Power Stop drilled & slotted rotors, Tundra TRD pads. Broke-in the pads as per included instructions.

All was well and brake pulsing went away, but now, roughly 5000-7000km after replacing the brakes, I think the rotors are warped again as the brake pulsing sensation is back. The pulsing is not constant - seems to vary depending on speed and level of brake application, but it's there. Is anyone else experiencing the same thing? Getting the rotors turned every 5000km is not an option.

I live in a hilly area with cold winters. I'd imagine getting the rotors hot (braking) and then cooling down quickly (snow, washing the car, etc.) is not helping. Any tips for avoiding rotor warp? Or other potential culprits?

 

[Ali FJ80]

If you are only using your brakes and not engine braking in the hills you will probably keep warping rotors. These trucks are too heavy to just rely on the brakes for long intervals of constant braking without cooking them. Other option is get bigger brakes like the Tundra setup.

 

[Mogwai]

There have been a number of "brake" related posts that touch on the topic of "how to brake" and why you may be feeling the pulsing, it was mostly news to me, but I've since changed my braking habits, mostly just making sure I stop short of my intended stop so that I can continue to slowly roll forward. Evidently it's not always the rotors warping, but the brake pads leaving deposits on the rotors and creating a non-smooth surface. So if you brake hard, heat the rotors, and then hold them stationary to the rotor after stopping you may transfer material. Then the next time you go to brake that added material creates a pulse.

I have heard the TRD pads leave a lot of dust, which would make me think they leave a lot of material, which could exacerbate the situation.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Interesting thoughts.

I do rely on engine braking here and there, but far from every time I need to slow down. One thing I've never done was hold the brakes for an excessive period of time. Going down big hills, I'll scrub 10-15km off my speed, give the brakes a few seconds rest, then slow down some more.

@Mogwai - the procedure you described was part of the TRD pad brake in process, but I haven't done it since. I'll try to adjust my habits and see what effect that has.

 

[bloc]

I have heard the TRD pads leave a lot of dust, which would make me think they leave a lot of material, which could exacerbate the situation.

You saved me writing a lot of the same stuff, so thanks for that. For anyone wondering about what’s going on stop tech did a white paper on the myth of warped rotors. It’s in the context of driving cars on a track but some of the basic theories transfer over to heavy vehicles like ours.

Beyond that, I now have TRD pads and haven’t had issues with more pad transfer, though I am pretty good about how I treat my brakes. They are a different pad chemistry than stock and likely very different in how they leave deposits. Semi-metallic vs ceramic, I believe. Also keep in mind that much of what we think of as brake pad dust is actually iron from the rotor itself. My TRDs work great and dust more than stock, but judging from the rotor lip they are wearing the rotors significantly quicker than stock pads too.

 

[speyrod]

I recall reading once that you can go through the bedding process again a couple times and that will help remove the material on the rotors. I would guess it can be done mechanically as well.

 

[ceb]

There have been a number of "brake" related posts that touch on the topic of "how to brake" and why you may be feeling the pulsing, it was mostly news to me, but I've since changed my braking habits, mostly just making sure I stop short of my intended stop so that I can continue to slowly roll forward. Evidently it's not always the rotors warping, but the brake pads leaving deposits on the rotors and creating a non-smooth surface. So if you brake hard, heat the rotors, and then hold them stationary to the rotor after stopping you may transfer material. Then the next time you go to brake that added material creates a pulse.

I have heard the TRD pads leave a lot of dust, which would make me think they leave a lot of material, which could exacerbate the situation.

Actually, it is almost never the rotors warping. It is next to impossible to warp a rotor on a street legal car. It is always pad deposits which can be cleaned off or the rotors turned.

 

[ceb]

...but it is far easier for the dealer to say "your rotors are warped. That'll be $1200 please (my boss needs to make a boat payment)"

 

[Willy beamin]

My experience is Go frozenrotorscom and their suggestion of pads and don't look back. Call and speak with them.

 

[empty80]

I got my '14 with 38,000km on the odometer. By the time I got it home (~300km drive), I had noticed brake pedal pulsing, a typical indicator of warped rotors. The pads were wearing down too, so this summer I replaced both pads and rotors front and back. Power Stop drilled & slotted rotors, Tundra TRD pads. Broke-in the pads as per included instructions.

All was well and brake pulsing went away, but now, roughly 5000-7000km after replacing the brakes, I think the rotors are warped again as the brake pulsing sensation is back. The pulsing is not constant - seems to vary depending on speed and level of brake application, but it's there. Is anyone else experiencing the same thing? Getting the rotors turned every 5000km is not an option.

I live in a hilly area with cold winters. I'd imagine getting the rotors hot (braking) and then cooling down quickly (snow, washing the car, etc.) is not helping. Any tips for avoiding rotor warp? Or other potential culprits?

Can you verify your pad thicknesses? I had all of the same issues on my factory pads and rotors that you are reporting. When I replaced my pads and rotors, the one thing that stood out was the pad wear. The front exterior pads had almost nothing left, but the interior pads look like that had never touched the rotor. If only half of the pads are engaging the rotor, that means they are doing twice the work, and generating far more heat than expected. In this instance, it is possible to damage the rotor.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Can you verify your pad thicknesses? I had all of the same issues on my factory pads and rotors that you are reporting. When I replaced my pads and rotors, the one thing that stood out was the pad wear. The front exterior pads had almost nothing left, but the interior pads look like that had never touched the rotor. If only half of the pads are engaging the rotor, that means they are doing twice the work, and generating far more heat than expected. In this instance, it is possible to damage the rotor.

Both pads and rotors were new just a few months ago. No way they're worn down at this point.

I've been paying more attention to how I brake and it seems like I'm experiencing pedal pulsation less frequently now, so it seems pad dust build up on the rotors was the likely the culprit. Will keep driving and see how things go.

 

[bloc]

IMO the biggest relevant issue is stopping from high speed then sitting still in traffic/at a stoplight, foot on the brake to keep the vehicle from rolling forward. This keeps one spot on the rotor hotter than the rest, also transferring more pad material to that spot. Consider putting the transmission in neutral to reduce required brake pressure, or leaving enough room to slowly roll forward.

These trucks are heavy and seem to need different treatment than the family Camry.