Rotors? factory vs. drilled/crossed? (1 Viewer)

[LukeO]

Is there a real benefit in upgrading to drilled/crossed rotors over factory?

It's about that time for new rotors.

It makes sense that drilled/crossed rotors disipate heat better and possibly slow glazing. But given that, Cruisers are typically not high speed vehicles and unless one might be a dare devil, stopping larger tires offroad typically occurs at crawling speeds.

Does braking ability increase dramatically at highway speeds with drilled/crossed rotors behind larger tires?

What effect if any does ABS play with drilled/crossed rotors?

Is the improvement from factory to drilled/crossed rotors great enough overall to justify additional cost?

Do drilled/crossed rotors require less or gentler braking to slow the Cruiser, if the difference is noticable? Is brake pad life increased at all?

 

[parabola]

I'd search on this. It has been discussed quite a few times.

 

[Brentbba]

I'd search on this. It has been discussed quite a few times.

Agreed, but a quick summary of what I remember reading.

Drilled/slotted may have the benefits they tought, but will collect mud, rocks, etc. which could damage the rotor and/or pads if you get your truck dirty. If it's a they you've got nothing to worry about.

 

[PabloVTA]

I have the DBA slotted in front with PBR pads. Pads last alot longer than stock ones now, but the rotor's still warp like stock after a short 15 K.
What I found was that a few shops like to whine when it comes to turning the rotors, and since there were cracks near the holes, the complained even more.
I forced them to resurface them anyway. I just bought some cheapies off the net for the rear and the same PBR pads for the rear and saved a bunch. I think the rotors were 40 each. Since I had them and just walked in to have them swapped out I kept the old ones. The Tech said I was under the legal thickness, but after I got home and measured them, I found out he doesn't know how to read a set of calipers, there is still .075 to .100 above the limit.

I have a 94 with ABS, and used to work for Wilwood.

Go slotted. I drive like it's stolen, so if I can go 18K between turning them, you should be alright.

flush the fluid and make sure you get the good stuff that's fresh for a refill, it breaks down with time on the shelf, so try to read the lot date and get the newest stuff. dont use the old can on the shelf you're already staring at.

Use a turkey baster to pull most of the fluid out of the M/C. and then push the rest, speeds up time. If youre lucky enought to get a different color fluid you'll know when it's done. Start with PS rear first, then other side.

I'll be going stainless next, and a flush.

but there a tons of threads on this too.
good luck

no, Wilwood doesn't make a set for us 80's owners....believe me, I tried.

 

[Gumby]

Got a set of low mileage warped ones on a bench in the shop. Got a buddy with a similar situation.

Got stock rotors on mine with 136,000 on them.

I don't give a damn if drilled ones stop 5 feet quicker or not, I will replace mine with OEM.

 

[Nantucket_LC]

while we are on the subject anyone care to chime in with an opinion of the JT rotors on Ebay? I know at least one person on the boards said they were as good as OEM, nice price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F-Brake-Rotors-FzJ80-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-landcruiser_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQitemZ8015551371QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

[parabola]

Got a set of low mileage warped ones on a bench in the shop. Got a buddy with a similar situation.

Got stock rotors on mine with 136,000 on them.

this is what im talking about!

 

[RavenTai]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=33086

 

[reffug]

stock combination of 100 and 80 pads

Cdan as usual.

 

[turbocruiser]

Just as another accurate data point, 75K miles on my drilled and slotted rotors (all around vehicle) and no warpage with much much better braking than the stock setup.

I did get the holes loaded with mud several times but basically just really rinsed it out when rotors warmed down.

I've powered through gravelly granite troughs with no rocks really getting stuck in the holes and would think that it would be hard to have a rock stick in a hole firmly enough to not get glanced off by the pad but also so firmly so as to harm the pad by going under it over and over.

I think unless you really recklessly overheat these rotors they are not gonna warp, sure anyone can overheat them with poor driving practices or with poor LSPV placement after lift but basically they are awesome rotors and do add alot to the braking performance.

To each his own. HTH.