Rotors and Pads Help 97 80

[spiff361]

Told by Sears that front brakes will not pass VA state inspection in May which is now two months expired (July) since I am out of state and will be until mid October.
Question is they asked $400 for the work, including the rotors needing to be resurfaced.
If I order the parts from Dan should I just get new rotors at the same time as the 100 series pads, and this is a fairly plug and play job with an extra person and some fluid?
I feel like I read in one thread that one might as well just buy oem rotors if the old ones are gone, keep in mind this is all based on the word of the folks at sears and since I am not there cannot be verified but will have to be fixed asap when in VA to get the new state inspection sticker.
Thanks

 

[Corbet]

Do you know how many miles on the rotors? But personally I'd probably get new ones. A lot of heat is generated there and the more material you have the better.

The install is pretty easy but does require some hub disassembly. They don't just slide on over the top like some vehicles. You don't need an extra body unless your going to bleed the brakes too. (not a bad idea)

 

[scottryana]

Lots of cars it is just plug and play, simply a matter of removing the caliper and pulling the rotor off. The 80 is quite a bit more work if you haven't done it. If you are doing it its a good time to check your bearings etc too.

 

[DSRTRDR]

the OEM rotors are not that expensive, just buy them from the dealer

 

[spiff361]

I don't know the miles on the rotors, you think I should just go to my local toyota dealer for pads and rotors? no significant savings by using a vendor on here? I've got a few weeks to wait on shipping etc so that's not an issue.

what kind of things am i looking for on the bearings?

I can use the red brake fluid from advanced auto right?

 

[scottryana]

You will want to check that your bearings are tight if not you will want to remove the lock nut and washer and tighten them.

Rotors and pads can be bought from one of the venders here if not in a hurry. Try Beno or Cdan.

red brake fluid is not a good way to judge, I would get a good synthetic and flush your system with it.

 

[DSRTRDR]

no significant savings by using a vendor on here?

in my case, the cost of shipping would have eaten the discount - but I only bought the rotors since I had the other stuff on the shelf already

 

[Corbet]

As others have said shipping the rotors generally absorbs most of the savings of ordering from CDan or other.

The OEM rotors are a great choice and easy to source. As you have time you could look at some of the fancy stuff but my DBS slotted rotors don't really make much of a difference. Next time I will probably go back OEM but maybe look at some EBC pads. I don't think the new OEM pads are as good as they used to be.

 

[spiff361]

found this thread that looks like it will cover everything, except maybe checking the bearings: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/292265-replacing-front-rotors-brake-pads.html

anyone have a link to that? keeping in mind this is the most extensive project I have attempted beyond changing oil and installing a new egr before realizing the tubes were cracked and most likely the real cause... another story another day.

looks like I will just go to a toyota dealership in the neighborhood if the consensus is I won't save by ordering here.

might try and get the rack off and tow hitch, also need some front flaps now that the runners are gone. pics one day with the rack off and maybe even some paint work to cover the rust in central VA

 

[Polar Bear]

found this thread that looks like it will cover everything, except maybe checking the bearings: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/292265-replacing-front-rotors-brake-pads.html

anyone have a link to that? keeping in mind this is the most extensive project I have attempted beyond changing oil and installing a new egr before realizing the tubes were cracked and most likely the real cause... another story another day.

My advice about getting your bearings preload set up correctly is that once you think it's done right and finished, give the rotor a few good hard whacks around the circumference with a rubber mallet. This will fully seat it if there is a bit of a lip in the hub like mine had.

It appeared to be just fine and all buttoned up, but within a few miles I checked it and had an uncomfortable amount of play in the bearings on both sides. A few whacks with the mallet, repeated the FSM process for proper setup, and I haven't had a problem since. Several people have had the same issue, so I thought I'd relay it to save you some time.

80 hubs are happier being tightened down a bit more than most other brands you run into, so don't freak if you think the fish scale is taking it too far while getting your bearing preload set.