Rotational clicking in front wheel - Not birfs

[bajaphile]

*EDIT 7/5/2015*
Found out that the clicking noise was coming from using the wrong type of lug nut on the SCS F5 wheels. They are the older style which uses smaller lug holes, and do not allow for extended thread (ET style) lug nuts to pass through.

I had noticed that the lug holes on the wheels were getting chewed up and I finally put it together... the ET lugs were jamming into the hole, and the shoulder of the lug was not making contact with the recess on the wheel! Definitely something I had not thought of and glad it was something simple.
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Just hoping someone might offer me any advice before jumping off a cliff.

I am getting a faint to moderate clicking from acceleration and deceleration, going straight or turning, doesn't matter. It is very audiable when slowing down and going into a turn. The turn doesn't need to be tight, as in, I don't believe it is birfield related. The click is at the speed of the wheel turning, so I am fairly certain it is isolated to rotational components in the knuckle/spindle/brake/wheel.

I've gone in and inspected everything about 3 times now. Every time I do this I think it is fixed, and the sound goes away for a week but then re-appears. As time goes it gets worse and the clicking then eventually turns into almost grinding noise at moderate speed curves.

Things I've done:
1) Removed front driveshaft (I have a Tom Woods DC shaft, thought it might be the issue). Took for test drive and it was still there. I have determined it coming from the front wheel area.
2) Torqued down lug nuts (no change).
3) 1 year on new Toyota bearings & races from knuckle rebuild
4) 2x removed inner and outer bearings, cleaned and re-packed with high quality Timken wheel bearing grease
5) Tried several different torque settings on the inner nut (from 12 ft-lbs to 30 ft-lbs).
6) Trail Gear axle nut kit (was thinking preload was being lost, but apparently its not that).
7) Brake pads and rotors are new (Rotors are just NAPA gold and pads are Power stop ceramic).

This weekend I inspected the spindle and bearings AGAIN. The spindle does show a little wear, but doesn't look abnormally bad. (I should have taken a photo but did not). Bearings appeared to be fine, I could see a little wear on the inner bearing race. No noises from them in my hand.

What I'm leaning towards:
1) Burnt up wheel bearing from either too high or too low torque
2) Caliper? Somehow?
3) Spindle.

I've had my fair share of failed wheel bearings in the past and I have never heard of them making a noise like this, but when it gets really bad it sure sounds like a grinding clicking noise. I might just try throwing some new ones in there since they aren't too ridiculously expensive... does anyone else have any ideas on what to check?

 

[Tools R Us]

Is the moly level correct (1/2-3/4 full) in the knuckles?

 

[bajaphile]

Thanks for the reply. Yes, something I can check again. I had rebuilt the knuckles about a year ago and was sure I packed the birfs full and then also packed the knuckles 3/4 "full". I checked a few months ago and from my zip tie sticking into the plug method, it looked to be about 1/2 full or so. I squeezed in about 3-4 oz of moly extra for good measure.

 

[inkpot]

The moly grease usually leaves a track/line on the knuckle ball indicating approximently how full it is. If you can't see it, try rubbing your finger over it. Usually you can feel it

 

[KliersLC]

Try pulling the driveshaft AND the drive plates. This will ensure that nothing in the drivetrain is moving and allow you to focus in on the bearings.....or ID the birfs or diff as the culprit.

 

[Dave 2000]

Are the brake pad tensioners in place. Sometimes the pad can be lifted by the disc rotating and then drops back to rest, and then repeats.

Wear in front flanges?

Stick on balance weights catching calliper?

regards

Dave

 

[bajaphile]

The moly grease usually leaves a track/line on the knuckle ball indicating approximently how full it is. If you can't see it, try rubbing your finger over it. Usually you can feel it

Interesting, I will check for that. If the grease level was low, what would be creating the clicking noise? Is that pointing to birf? They might still click regardless of turning angle and more at an acceleration/deceleration scenario?

Try pulling the driveshaft AND the drive plates. This will ensure that nothing in the drivetrain is moving and allow you to focus in on the bearings.....or ID the birfs or diff as the culprit.

Drive plates? Do you mean the plates held in by the cone washers and 6 nuts?

Are the brake pad tensioners in place. Sometimes the pad can be lifted by the disc rotating and then drops back to rest, and then repeats.

Wear in front flanges?

Stick on balance weights catching calliper?

regards

Dave

I have the central spring pad tensioner, and also the small wire clip thing that holds the pins in place... However, that is something I think which could be the culprit. Good clearance to stick on weights, and a great idea hah.

.

 

[LINUS]

I'd either put on a lift or jackstands & run it in place, see what it is - is this even so far as having tracked down to either front (since you mentioned birfs), rear - left or right side?

 

[bajaphile]

It sure feels like it is being caused by a stress on a part. I don't believe it would happen in the air. Only seems to happen when I'm accelerating, decelerating or going around a turn at speed (10+ mph). Worst is on a curvy country road, whenever I go around a curve going at a good speed to really throw in centripetal forces.

 

[KliersLC]

Drive plates? Do you mean the plates held in by the cone washers and 6 nuts?

.

Yes. It won't hurt anything to drive with those off for a few minutes.

 

[SoCalFZJ80]

I had a similar sound when I rotated my tires. One of the wheel balancing weights was too large and was rubbing every time it came around.

 

[bajaphile]

Thanks! Yeah but this is not constant. Only happens when I accel/decel and gets progressively worse. I've checked the wheel weights and have tons of clearance.

 

[bmwjnky]

My friends 80 was doing this a month or so ago. His truck only had 155K but the passenger birf was done from putting off fixing an inner axle seal leak too long. Did an axle upgrade on both sides with new birf's and the noise went away.

 

[inkpot]

Yes. It won't hurt anything to drive with those off for a few minutes.

Right on. I have driven 2 hours at hiway speeds with the plates off and very little grease is lost. No harm, no foul.

 

[inkpot]

Interesting, I will check for that. If the grease level was low, what would be creating the clicking noise? Is that pointing to birf? They might still click regardless of turning angle and more at an acceleration/deceleration scenario?.[/QUOTE

Even good birfs may make some noise if the grease is low enough. The moly lubricates the surfaces, cushions the movement of all the moving parts, and muffles all the noise.