Roof Rack Help (1 Viewer)

[tenmile]

I have a 1997 fitted with Yakima towers on the factory rack. Just noticed the factory rack says wt. limit of 100lbs, though I hauled two touring kayaks with a gross wt. of 125lbs for 200 miles today. Anyhow, yakima says the rain gutter racks are rated at 160lbs, anyone using them vs the factory? What is the max you've used on the factory without damage? Better rack (higher rated) than Yakima gutter?

Thank You
Jeff

 

[mainemike]

I'm not sure how to interpret your post: do you have a yakima gutter mount tower system with yakima crossbars? Or do you have a yakima system attached to the factory Toyota roof rack?

If you are piggybacking on the Toyota roofrack, you will need to be careful of weight because the Toyota rack will be putting downward pressure on the toyota roof rack 'feet', essentially the roof itself, and the factory racks are less than ideally designed.

If you have a Yakima rack independent of the Toyota rack, you are putting the pressure on the rain gutters. IMO, this can take a lot more than 100 lbs, although that is all Yak will rate it for for liability reasons. It takes a lot of effort to tear off a rain gutter via a yakima rack clamp. If you regularly use it for more weight, simply add crossbars. I've set up rooflines with as many as 6 yakima crossbars to build decking systems or basket designs to carry excessive weight. Keep in mind the terrain makes a huge difference - rolling down the highway with a heavy roof load is much less abusive than driving a washboard dirt road, and driving on trails with weight up top is another issue all together.

But if you are relying on the factory Toyota rack, in any way, be careful with overloading it.

m.

 

[jc3835]

Tenmile,
An option to think about, what I did. I already owned a large amount of Yakima racks and accessories, but didn't want to piggyback off of the factory rack because it was getting loose. When I took it off, one of the two bolts at each corner was not holding well anymore, so I essentially had half of the original anchors working.
I also didn't want to go the gutter route, for whatever reason I made up in my head, so I installed a set of Yakima tracks onto the roof. Now I know that all of the anchors are good (6+ per side) and feel good about loads on the roof now.
Just sharing an option with you from my own experience.
I will try to share some pics later today.

 

[tenmile]

Sorry for the confusion about the setup. I have the 2 yakima crossbars, on yakima mounts which are attached to the toyota factory rack. So, essentially the wt. is being held on the toyota factory rack.

Rain Gutter Question- do the the raing gutter mounts cause the gutter to warp/bend or paint come off the gutter? What makes them stronger than the factory roof mount?

Alternate brand roof mount Question: what is the advantage of yakima roof based mounts over factory, What is the yakima fixed roof system rated for?

How does any rack support the wt. of a car top tent?

Ultimate carry for us would be 3-4 kayaks and a roof top box. Further ideas?

Thank You,

Jeff

 

[96r50]

I have the Yakima 1A Raingutter towers and 66" bars. Yakima rates the gutter towers for 165lbs on the 91-97 trucks. I've hauled two tandem outfitted whitewater canoes (90lbs a piece) with no worries. I have also stood on one bar (all 210lbs of me) without any ill effects. I'm not recommending you overload the towers, just letting you know what some folks have done!

 

[mainemike]

I have the raingutter mounts and have no concerns about damaging the gutters. That is the same mounting location for all the industrial expedition roofracks, such as ARB, etc.

For 4 boats and box, I'd use 4 crossbars to distribute the load better. The yak. tower mounts are all over ebay and craigslist cheep, since raingutters are becoming obsolete. However, the design is aluminum threaded blocks with steel threaded posts, so they commonly seize assuming they have been on a roof for a decade or so - just make sure the pair you get used is not frozen, and they are pretty much same as new. Or, just buy a new set.

58 inch crossbars is the standard fit, which is not as wide as the cruiser itself. You can go wider (66 or 78) for more cargo room - but depending on where you drive the overhang may be problematic in heavy brush and trees.

 

[tenmile]

So the suggestion seems to be to go from 2 cross bars to 4 cross bars only have them be gutter mounts. Assuming I would try to stay in the wt. catagory by only anchoring to a pair with one load and the other pair with the other load?

 

[Mars]

The factory racks are flimsy and often times rusted out. Gutter mounts are much much stronger! Here's my thread on removing my factory rack...I believe there's more info in the FAQ about pulling the factory rack off too. Its suprisingly flimsy, with just a couple nutserts through sheet metal holding it on.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=83263&highlight=rack

 

[goschbrandon]

4 bars with yakima gutter mounts will do you quite well, though for highway driving 2 bars would probably be okay with just the boats and box. Look on craigslist, lots of people selling the 1As in the Denver area, I got 4 towers for 50 bucks. If you buy used, check for the little rubber "socks" that go on the towers, without them the towers don't fit quite securely. The "socks" can be ordered through Yakima if you find some cheap towers without them.

 

[Sno bored]

I yanked the factory rack because it sucks, and rusts under the feet. I have Yakima rain gutter mounts, and think they are much better. What part of the high country are you in, somewhere along the Ten Mile range I guess ?

 

[tenmile]

Ten Mile Range

Yes, Frisco. Thank you for all of your suggestions. I will pursue the Yak gutter mounts. I was thinking of leaving the factory rack in place, even with the gutters any problem?

 

[dcFJ]

I have the 1A gutter mounts and I couldn't be happier. I used to have 2 crossbars attached to LowRiders on the factory rack, and the factory rack is weak...I could see it shaking when the truck was in motion...and offroading with that set up would eventually cause it to loosen and break the factory rack off. I have a total of 8 1A mounts (4 per side), and 4 58" crossbars and it works great. You won't regret that purchase. Definitely get the lock cores too...the gutter mounts are very easy to steal if someone wants them.

With the 1A mounts (the non hi-rise version), it will clear your factory rack, but just barely. It looks so much better if you take off the factory rack all together and plug the holes.

Here's a shot of mine with the 1A towers and the removed factory rack:

 

[Sno bored]

Yes, Frisco. Thank you for all of your suggestions. I will pursue the Yak gutter mounts. I was thinking of leaving the factory rack in place, even with the gutters any problem?

Search "roof rack" and you will see lots of posts with people talking about rust forming underneath the feet. I yanked mine, but didn't see much rust. I think it looks better without the factory rack.

 

[Atoyot1031]

THE FACTORY RACKS SUCK!!!

A lot of people (myself included) used the quick-n-easy clamps (gutter mounts) for their racks. Yakima is overpriced IMHO. The quick-n-easy clamps are cast aluminum, strong and light.

I used six of them on my full-size rack. I don't have a weight rating, but I can tell you it easily supports myself plus spare tire & camping gear (total ~ 400lbs.)

So my advice is to have a few with your welder, and while your at it, tear that old factory POS off of your cruiser before it does any serious damage!