The Nomad 1994 80 Project Car (1 Viewer)

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Will make sure the misses is sitting while I do that....
I meant that as humor. I know sometimes language barriers prevent that from coming through.
 
I meant that as humor. I know sometimes language barriers prevent that from coming through.
Oh mate I got it :D I figured that would fix my marriage as well !! Sorry my humor is an "acquired taste" a bit like caviar it smells horrible and tastes horrible yet people still eat it (until im blocked that is :)

No worries mate :D
 
Hey do you have the room to sneak a nut splitter up there on an extension and just split the nut? I guess i could look on my vehicle but i am tired already :)
 
No room at all the but is right above the fuel tank. I couldn't any where near it
 
So the driver seat back right bolt is broken i couldnt get it out or reach the nut holding it as its under the gas tank.

Any ideas other than taking the whole tank out to remove / fix that bolt ???
Actually, I would remove the seat (now only 3 bolts and a wiring harness) then soak it in penetrating oil. Then CENTER PUNCH it and drill it out from the top side. If you have access to left-hand drill bits, it can sometimes catch and unscrew it while you drill.

Drill it out with successively larger sizes (start really small to make sure you center the hole) until you reach the correct size bit to re-thread the hole or the piece comes out. Then tap to the correct thread size and install a new bolt. Be sure to use anti-seize when you reinstall so they will come out again later.

All of this can be done from the top. If you cannot get it right away, pull back the carpet if you can, and use a MAPP gas or propane torch from above to heat the bolt and help burn out the rust. Then spray penetrating oil (PB Blaster) on it to cool the bolt and help break the bond.

Where I live this is a regular occurrence, so I have become quite adept at this, but you must have the right tools and do it in the right order, and DON'T RUSH IT.
 
Problem it's not seized it's lose but something has caught the very far bottom of the bolt I imagine the bolt was installed wrong and over torqued.
It's basically free until I put then the nut at rhe bottom is stopping me pulling thr bolt
 
Problem it's not seized it's lose but something has caught the very far bottom of the bolt I imagine the bolt was installed wrong and over torqued.
It's basically free until I put then the nut at rhe bottom is stopping me pulling thr bolt
So the "weld nut" is broke free from the bottom of the floor pan so your bolt just spins?
 
Yes exactly and I can't seem.to pull it out either
 
Yes exactly and I can't seem.to pull it out either
Only choices are to grind off the head and shove it out the bottom
Drill off the head and shove it out the bottom
Drop the gas tank, weld the nut back to the bottom

None of these are short scenarios and will still need another nut underneath that will hold, so eventually going to have to drop the gas tank anyway.

In all honesty, dropping the tank was not a big deal.

Pull the cover under the rear seats to disconnect the fuel pump lines and wires.
Drain the fuel from the drain in the bottom of the tank
Remove the 2 bolts that hold the straps that hold the tank to the truck.

I think it took me 1-1/2 hours to drop the tank the first time.
 
I'm going to repair a broken bold in the left wheel, I will take apart the front diff's and check everything there before re-sealing it (swapping anything that is not looking good) I think it will be a good opportunity to do chair at the same time.
 
There's always the option of a nutsert
 


Is that what you mean? I am not familiar with that technique !

Yes, that's correct.

However, I would not personally use a nutsert on a seat. My fat ass in a seat that I'm hoping stays attached to the body when I get in a collision needs to have something a bit larger than the hole it it going through and not relying on the thickness of the sheet metal alone to hold it.

There are lots of places I would use these, but not for seats, seat belts, or anything related to safety.
 
So paper work done all sorted on with the heavy stuff.

Will start with the engine
 
So I had smoke coming out of the left front tire, I took off the wheel and there was grease every where.

The wheel sounded a bit rough so I am guessing the bearings heated up and caused the grease to escape. (its not oil for sure maybe oil and grease together?)

In all cases bearings are well overdue for a change (250k+ !!!) so next week a visit to the mechanic to change the bearings / oil seals and check front differential and change its oil. This should cover all my under carriage wows and my next step is the engine.

Oh and I sorted out the paper work and license all good.

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So took the car for inspection and well glad I did.

So oil seal is gone, discs, bearings, caliper etc. (i think it has 300k KM on it or so).
I decided to rebuild the front diff and also change the diff hub the gears are worn and there is far too much play.

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Multiple cracks in the rotor! Wow
 
So 2 days later and a completely rebuild front diff .....

Bearings, front diff hub, front diff housing, oil seals, new brake discs, new brake pads, all bolts changed to Toyota original ones.

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