rocksliders directly on aluminum tub?

[1phrogguy]

I am thinking about getting some rock sliders made for me, but don't know if bolting them to the alum tub is a good idea. Is it (the tub) going to be strong enough to withstand an impact? I also plan on having a step welded into the slider.

Or should I have some brackets made so I can bolt them to the frame? I have searched and know about the clearance issues and body movement, but there isn't anything (that I saw) pertaining to alum tubs. Any thoughts? Thanks

 

[gladly]

my thought is that bolting to an aluminum tub is just as strong as bolting to a steel tub, as the aluminum is a lot thicker, though softer than steel but really the question is, are they for sliding on or for looking purty? I don't think that anything that I was going to slide on any amount would be bolted to any kind of sheet metal. if it's just for the occasional bash, fine, but if you wheel hard, you'd want it tied to a big chunk o' metal (frame)

 

[REZARF]

I would have to agree, I think that the best option is tie into the frame however you can. However, you might be able to get by with the occasional brush and bump with them bolted up to the aluminum. I would just hate to see a buggered up tub that will never rust!

Just my .02

Rezarf <><

 

[FJ40fiji]

That aluminum tub is probably not going to be that far off from a steel tub for strength. Maybe even the same or better. The important question is how much impact are you talking about? For me, even with a steel tub I think that frame mounting is the only option, but I plan to put some miles on my sliders. I'd probably be avoiding that hard of use though if I had forked out the dough for an aluminium tub, in which case, body mounted would be alright.

 

[hi50phd]

I have a faint memory engram about problems with a steel/iron to aluminium interface. First ran across it when considering an AL tub from my '40. May be a false memory, however, you might want to run a search on it.

 

[HawkDriver]

Not sure bout aluminum but these that I built I bolted only to the fiberglass body and when I hi lift tested it I deemed that I needed to reinforce it to the frame. If you've got the time and resources I'd opt for frame reinforcement.

 

[HawkDriver]

I have a faint memory engram about problems with a steel/iron to aluminium interface. First ran across it when considering an AL tub from my '40. May be a false memory, however, you might want to run a search on it.

Electolysis. It can get nasty but can be prevented with proper prep and care.

 

[tucker74]

If you're going for a true slider - the only way to go is to the frame, either welded or bolted. I'll post up some pics of the set Jim (2badfjs) built for me tonight - they have the look I think you're wanting, but are a true frame mount.

Tucker

 

[REZARF]

Hawk-

Did you make your sliders too? They look good.

Rezarf <><

Not sure bout aluminum but these that I built I bolted only to the fiberglass body and when I hi lift tested it I deemed that I needed to reinforce it to the frame. If you've got the time and resources I'd opt for frame reinforcement.

 

[HawkDriver]

Sho 'nuff. Where you been?

Thread

 

[1phrogguy]

All good info, thanks guys.

Tucker I am interested to see the pics of the sliders that 2badfj's built for you, please do post those.

I will go with the brackets welded to the frame, and sliders that will bolt onto the brackets.

 

[Mace]

If you're going for a true slider - the only way to go is to the frame, either welded or bolted. I'll post up some pics of the set Jim (2badfjs) built for me tonight - they have the look I think you're wanting, but are a true frame mount.

Tucker

I used to have sliders bolted to the frame. I have sliders bolted to the body now. And have beat the tar out of them with no ill effects.

 

[tucker74]

I used to have sliders bolted to the frame. I have sliders bolted to the body now. And have beat the tar out of them with no ill effects.

I thought about your rig when I was posting. I think it depends on what kind of shape your body is in, and how bent out of shape you're gonna get if that changes. I know you use yours though...

Tucker

 

[alf]

I have a 3/4 aqualu tub and plan to run a piece of 4" flat aluminum stock along the bottom edge of the tub from the rear wheel well up to the front fender. This piece will have counter sunk allen head stainless bolts as attachment anchors. This piece will be painted black. It will look like its a slider like many other have but the main reason for this piece is that I did not use the Aqualu cowl-to-tub cover-up piece as it just "plain looked bad" and was an instant givewaway that one had a replacement tub. Instead I used a piece of angle iron to fill the void and then feathered it all in with body filler.

I also plan to have sliders built that will be bolted to the frame.


ALF

 

[rusty_tlc]

Electolysis. It can get nasty but can be prevented with proper prep and care.

I think the term you meant was Galvanic corrosion, which sometimes happens when dissimilar metals come in contact.
There usually needs to be some moisture, direct metal to metal contact, and current flow* involved for the galvanic action to happen.


*Say using steel fenders on an aluminium tub and wiring the ground through the fender rather than directly to the body.

 

[gladly]

hmmm. I was pretty sure that it was called electrogalvanic corrosion

 

[FJ40fiji]

I think the term you meant was Galvanic corrosion, which sometimes happens when dissimilar metals come in contact.
There usually needs to be some moisture, direct metal to metal contact, and current flow* involved for the galvanic action to happen.


*Say using steel fenders on an aluminium tub and wiring the ground through the fender rather than directly to the body.

Say, your a pretty fart smeller. But it requires much less current. Like the current that flows through it when it passes through a magnetic field such as passing power lines, or a little disturbance like an inductive effect from the vehicles electrical system. It only takes a few stray trons to get it started. Just gotta have good paint on both pieces including shooting in the holes after you drill, a LITTLE anti sieze or maybe RTV or something on the bolts might be a good idea too.

 

[HawkDriver]

Yup, you're right Rusty. Thanks for the edumucation.

I guess that if you were to use different metals and pass current through it like grounding something to an aluminum body then the current passes through it to steel on it's way to the battery, that area where the dissimilar metals touch is where you'd get that electorlysis which would contribute to corrosion. I always just generalized the two, but now I see there is a difference. Thanks.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Say, your a pretty fart smeller. But it requires much less current. Like the current that flows through it when it passes through a magnetic field such as passing power lines, or a little disturbance like an inductive effect from the vehicles electrical system. It only takes a few stray trons to get it started. Just gotta have good paint on both pieces including shooting in the holes after you drill, a LITTLE anti sieze or maybe RTV or something on the bolts might be a good idea too.

It was the first example that came to mind. I really don't know how much current it would take in an automotive application, my experience with it has been in electronics applications.