RMS and or oil pan leak help pics (1 Viewer)

1phrogguy

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Had a "new" 2f installed 3 months ago in my 78/40. The engine had been sitting for like 12 years in the shop's garage. I had a bunch of work done to it before installing, decked the head, all new gaskets and seals. Been running real good since.

It's been about 600 miles and it has had a constant slow oil leak from what looks like the RMS area. I was told by the builder that the crank had some slight pitting at the RMS and that they tried to emery cloth it a bit. That emery cloth didn't work but I could handle the slow drip that it was, until yesterday...There was way more oil coming out of the inspection cover area, like a drop every inch when I was pulling into my garage. There was literally a line of oil following the vehicle. Hasn't done that before, hence this post.


Oil Pan gasket? Any tips on what I could check?
20171010_102648.jpg

20171010_102622.jpg

The area at end of the pan gasket looks suspect to me.
I checked the freeze plugs and the entire back of the engine and oil pan are dry except for what is shown.

20171010_102703.jpg
 
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Rear main seal is most likely what is leaking but a seal at the end of the cam shaft is in that area that could also be leaking. We're the seals replaced years ago or just before it was installed and started?
 

1phrogguy

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All work was performed just before it was installed and started this summer. The engine wasn't entirely rebuilt, it was pulled with like 85k over a decade ago, I had the head off to get cleaned and decked, new RMS and gaskets (oil pan, head gasket, side cover).

I also believe it's the RMS but why such a sudden increase in leakage? A consistent few drops a minute to nearly constant flow happened in less than 10 miles.

I'm not seeing where the seal is at the end of the cam shaft. I've got the original 2f in the garage, complete minus some accessories, can't seem to see it on that either. I did see that there are two more freeze plugs kind of covered up by the bellhousing directly on the back of the engine. I'll keep poking around back there, but I'm getting that feeling like this engine is going to be pulled and a fat wad of cash is going to depart my wallet.

TIA
 

1phrogguy

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Thanks for that reference post @73FJ40 I see where it is now. Can't really see those plugs with my little mirror with everything still hooked up in the truck though.

The back DS where the cam plug is dry, probably rule that one out. PS is also dry above the oil pan but you can see where that drip is forming on the PS.

I'll run it around the neighborhood and hopefully see something.
 

pjohnson

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Looks like lots of silicone sealer in there on the pan gasket. Often it's used because the pan lip isn't perfectly flat. Try tightening the pan bolts first. After that, I would use carb cleaner and wipe it all down as best as possible and try to trace the leak. If that doesn't reveal much, replace the pan gasket and see if that stops it. If not, go for replacing the rear main seal.
 

1phrogguy

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Here's before and after my ride of 5 minutes. Does that look like the RMS leaking? I'll see if the pan is torqued.
20171011_114438.jpg
20171011_115443.jpg


What are the opinions about replacing the RMS with a known pitted crank? Moot point? Any options besides a new crank and rebuild?
 
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Speedi-sleeves are used in many places, usually with good results. I'm not familiar with the rear main seal area, with the bellhousing removed is it accessible to install a speedi-sleeve (if one is available for the RMS on the crank)?

Don
 
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Are the oil pan bolts tight? If they are then it is likely the transmission front input seal or the rear main seal. Is it gear oil or motor Oil? Likely time to pull the motor and inspect.
 

1phrogguy

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@handcannon I wish a speedi sleeve was available for this application but the crank sealing surface diameter is 3.918" and closest available sleeve size is 3.935-3.941. Too big.

@White Stripe It's definitely motor oil, and the pan is tight.

Good suggestions, thank you guys.

I am thinking of trying another RMS seal before I pull the motor. If I do need a replacement crank, where do I get one? NLA from dealer -cranks and harmonic balancers. Also, here a parts tidbit that may prove useful for someone - according to my local Toyota dealer, there is only one OEM 2F cam shaft left in America, and it's close to 700.00.
 

pjohnson

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I did my rear main seal with the trans/xfer out. It was a 2 banana job. I used a piece of pvc sewer pipe as a seal installer.
 

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