Ring and Pinion setup questions (1 Viewer)

[panoramic]

I am trying to correct some problems with a R&P + ARB locker install from a previous owner. It all started with alot of vibration and high-frequency highway noise. There was excessive rotational play in the driveline as well. After 2600 highway miles under new ownership with fresh oil, the diff oil was black and full of metalic silt. Upon inspection with paint on the teeth and after teardown: the pinion was too low , the aftermarket pinion shim was the wrong ID and had spun and both pinion bearings had 1000's of tiny pits. The carrier bearings looked much 'OK' though.

I have a bunch of new spare shims and bearings that have been scrounged for this project from buddies. I have never done a TOYOTA R&P before, but have done a few Dana's.
Anyway, I have read as many R&P setup posts and instructions as possible before posting here.
Can someone confirm these assumptions?:

1) Is this true?: The Toyota OEM pinion height shims fit under the pinion main bearing race. All of the aftermarket pinion height shims sit between the pinion gear head and the main inion bearing cartridge.

2) The Toyota Pinion preload method is to use reuseable shims over the minor pinion bearing. All of the aftermarket designs use a one-time crush sleeve. (FYI: I only have crush sleeves).

3) I have a brand new Toyota main pinion bearing that was given to me for a mid-70's diff. It has the same ID, OD and overall height as my original, but the race is not as tall as my 1982 original race. It was in a Toyota oem box with number: 90366-40059 and Koyo P/N ST4090-N does that sound right?

4) The two pinion bearings 'appear' to be worn. The races are visually have wear and a greyish polishing on the worn surfaces and there are 1000's of micro-indentations in the races and the rollers. The indentations in question are so small I can't feel them by scraping something across them, but visually I can see them. There is no roughness turning the bearings by hand. But is wear determination empirical?

Maybe I am being too cheap by not buying a 'Master Install' kit, but it appears I have everything I need except the minor pinion bearing. I just want to understand and do the right thing.

Thanks for any help,
Eric

 

[Pin_Head]

Can someone confirm these assumptions?:

1) Is this true?: The Toyota OEM pinion height shims fit under the pinion main bearing race. All of the aftermarket pinion height shims sit between the pinion gear head and the main inion bearing cartridge.

Yes. Up to some time in the 80s, the pinion position shims go underneath the outer race in the casting. It is easier to knock the race out to change a shim compared to pressing the bearing off the pinion.

2) The Toyota Pinion preload method is to use reuseable shims over the minor pinion bearing. All of the aftermarket designs use a one-time crush sleeve. (FYI: I only have crush sleeves).

Yes. This changed in the 80s to the more common crush sleeve.

3) I have a brand new Toyota main pinion bearing that was given to me for a mid-70's diff. It has the same ID, OD and overall height as my original, but the race is not as tall as my 1982 original race. It was in a Toyota oem box with number: 90366-40059 and Koyo P/N ST4090-N does that sound right?

Gear numbers ending in an N are often "narrow" and may not be thick enough to get the right pinion position. If it is the same thickness, then you can use it. If it really is for a mid 70s diff, then it should be fine.

4) The two pinion bearings 'appear' to be worn. The races are visually have wear and a greyish polishing on the worn surfaces and there are 1000's of micro-indentations in the races and the rollers.

This is not something that I can make a judgement about without looking at it. The wear surfaces of used bearings are not shiny and look like they have been sand blasted.