Builds RICCI the HJ75RP gets touched by a Yankee (1 Viewer)

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If we think of a while back, I performed a compression test. During the test I was using a handheld starter button to run the starter for the procedure.

While cranking and cranking to produce compression, the starter suddenly ran slower, even with a high output battery charger running. Something was weird... so I called up my good friend Nick, who for a living rebuilds vintage Ferrari components. If anyone was going to be able to help me rebuild the starter, this was the guy. He also recently purchased his first Toyota truck, a 1992 Pickup!

He found a broken brush soldering joint, which we fixed upon reassembly. We disassembled the majority of the starter, degreasing and re-greasing all of the mechanical components after a good inspection.
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@toyotaaddict83 was kind enough to borrow me his spare tire for test fitting. It's a 35x12.5 on a beautiful SCS 17x9 -38mm offset.

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Houston, we need a sawzall.

It should be fun to see how I tackle the rear clearance issues.

I plan to run 17x8.5 0mm offset, and a 35x10.5, so the outside of the tire will be about 1.5" farther inboard. The front will clear no lift, no trimming. The rear... well the rear is a different story.
 
@toyotaaddict83 was kind enough to borrow me his spare tire for test fitting. It's a 35x12.5 on a beautiful SCS 17x9 -38mm offset.

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Houston, we need a sawzall.

It should be fun to see how I tackle the rear clearance issues.

I plan to run 17x8.5 0mm offset, and a 35x10.5, so the outside of the tire will be about 1.5" farther inboard. The front will clear no lift, no trimming. The rear... well the rear is a different story.
😁😁😁
 
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I decided on some KMC KM720 Roswell wheels finished in anthracite. I opted for 17x8.5 ET0. I think it'll bring an authentic cruiser look, with a modern twist. The problem is.. they don't fit.

The center bore is correct, but the bore is not machined through the wheel. The hub lockers and rear axle hubs will interfere with the reduced area of the wheels.

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So what does that mean? Return them? Hell no! It means you head over to your buddy "Wallace Motorworks" (see @wallacemotorworks on instagram) and put the HAAS to work!


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I only had 4 of 5 wheels at the time, so once the 5th comes in we will start cutting metal and making them look the way they should!

So circling back to the turbo project, I have removed the oil pan to install a drain bung.
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I then set up an electrolysis tank to strip the oil pan down to bare metal. It's a multi-day process but takes pretty much zero effort. The pic shows about 24hrs in the tank, only half submerged. I have constructed a new setup and it's now fully submerged.
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I finished off the night with tossing in a fresh set of glow plugs.
 
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Welded the oil drain in, cleaned up the loose rust after the etank was done, and threw on a fresh coat of enamel.
Reinstalled it and got on with the next part of the project; the battery.

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I whipped up a new starter cable from 1/0 fine strand, with some proper sheathing and heat shrink.
 
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I also made some if these nifty wire loom mounts which can utilize a m6 or m8 bolt, and allows you to use a zip tie. They look really clean, are super strong and cheap. If you need some of these you know where to find me.

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I've replaced or revamped all the battery cables. Starter, alternator, and main fuse panel are all wired direct to the battery. A 1/0 ground cable runs to the engine, and 4ga from battery to body and 4ga from engine to chassis.
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After digging into this project it quickly revealed that the fender wells need to be repaired or replaced, as well as the firewall desperately needs paint.
 
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the coolant tube that runs from the thermostat to the heater core was visibly, so in the e-tank it went. After all the rust was gone, there wasn't much left of the ends where the Hoses connected to.
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I whipped up some super simple ends from Stainless 5/8" dairy tube.
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I also added an -6AN male bung to the center hose outlet.
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This tube was V1 of the airbox to turbocharger pipe. I ended up not using it at all, as you'll see later.
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This is the idea of how the airbox should roughly work.
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The beginning of a staino snorkel.
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This isn't exactly how I had imagined it, but I think I was able to high the body tightly and from the side, the vertical follows the windshield body line almost perfectly.
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The manifold, downpipe, and the exhaust section that runs under the cab all got Ceramic coated to help reduce the heat that would transfer into the cab.
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I wasted no time getting the turbo back on, and made the turbo inlet pipe.
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Forgive my wildly inconsistent aluminum welds, I don't weld aluminum very often.
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With a variation of elbows welded on the compressor housing, I added a V-band clamp to the compressor outlet and began making the charge piping.
 
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Aluminum charge pipe, vbands on both ends.
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Air box has been completed
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Everything in this turbo setup is name brand, top notch quality, tig welded, no corners cut. I'm really happy with how it has turned out and hope i can keep with this trend. Note the fire proof sleeving over the turbo lines that hover above the manifold and turbo. I have a turbo blanket that is to be fitted as well.
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The boss kept me motivated at the end of this project.

Unfinished items currently sre:
-Catch can
-wilson switch
- auxbeam switch panel
-roof console
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My new ironman bumper freshly installed, as well as a crappy old chineese X-bull winch I had laying around.
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Here's the turbo setup finished up.
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