I just got done having every body part on my FJ40 cleaned and sandblasted. I am looking very seriously at doing some sort of bed liner on the underside and inside of the cruiser(to prevent rust). Are there any good or bad experiences out there?
Rhino Lined, Hurculiner, Line-X, etc............ (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter needamod
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Scrubbed underneith and painted hammerite black, (seems to be just fine)inside of tub I got DIY herceliner gray,rolled it on seems to work good for what money Ihave in it and I can spray it out with the hose no problem 
I got it at Home depot A lot of stores in washington have it hope this helps
Once saw a 40 that had been sprayed inside and out with desert beige rhino liner. Looked awesome, pretty much indestructible but wasn't cheap. Although compared to some high priced paint jobs, it was well worth it. I believe the guy said he took it to them in pieces already sandblasted, ready for spray.
Ill bet that tub was heavier than hell too.
Line-X
Spray-in Truck Bedliners
The local Line-X shop just did an old old hard top Jeep that was really tricked out for 4-wheelin. They sprayed the entire vehicle, inside and out in black Line-X. It looked pretty cool. Absolutely indestructible by rust now. I have no idea how much it cost. I don't think I want to know.
Not affiliated... Yet.
Jody. [tt]Purchasing a Line-X franchise as we speak.[/tt]
Spray-in Truck Bedliners
The local Line-X shop just did an old old hard top Jeep that was really tricked out for 4-wheelin. They sprayed the entire vehicle, inside and out in black Line-X. It looked pretty cool. Absolutely indestructible by rust now. I have no idea how much it cost. I don't think I want to know.
Not affiliated... Yet.
Jody. [tt]Purchasing a Line-X franchise as we speak.[/tt]
i was estimated 600 for the inside and 2600 for the outside -- WTF
he said it was because of all the masking he would have to do -- i said its old and doesnt have "trim" only hole are for bolts or lights
gonna take mine piece by piece already preped and have somebody spray them take it by the guy again preped and see what he will do.... if more than 1000 for all then i am doing myself!!
he said it was because of all the masking he would have to do -- i said its old and doesnt have "trim" only hole are for bolts or lights
gonna take mine piece by piece already preped and have somebody spray them take it by the guy again preped and see what he will do.... if more than 1000 for all then i am doing myself!!
[quote author=needamod link=board=1;threadid=8248;start=msg69741#msg69741 date=1070310499]
then you must know the difference in the products out there. why Line-X??
[/quote]
yea tell us WHY go with LINE-X (also i'll put a LINE-X sticker on my rig if you do it for FREE!!)
my quote was for "ProCoating" i guess wanna-be rhino/line-x
then you must know the difference in the products out there. why Line-X??
[/quote]
yea tell us WHY go with LINE-X (also i'll put a LINE-X sticker on my rig if you do it for FREE!!)
my quote was for "ProCoating" i guess wanna-be rhino/line-x
- Thread starter
- #13
I have used a kind of roll on bed liner and it did not adhere to the metal like I hoped. after a year it started pealing and coming off which left bare metal exposed. I am looking for something that is more durable and longer lasting. Something that will protect against rust for years to come and be worry free. I may take the route of doing the whole cruiser from top to bottom. I would never have to worry about scratches, paint chips, or any other paint related issues.
I've used Herculiner and while i was pleased with it in the tub of my m416 I would not use it on anything but a real beater 40. Line X looks real good.. what else would you expect it's professional. I would say most of the home products are ok at best. I would also say that bed liners are a one time thing... so don't put one some home app and then look back and wish you would have done it differently.
my .02
-W
76 fj40
85 bj70
my .02
-W
76 fj40
85 bj70
I did some pretty heavy duty research on this issue. I had put a new floor pan in my FJ40 and certainly wanted to protect it the best I could. Here's a brief summary of what I learned:
- Prep is most important. Sandblasting is good. Rust conversion products (POR does not have me convinced). Remove mill scale from new metal before coating (phosphoric acid works well).
- 2 part coatings are usually better than single stage products.
- Primer is usually matched to a top coat. 2 part primers are better than single stage primers.
Herculiner: single stage component.
SEM, Gator Guard, etc.: 2 part epoxy's. Use a Shutz applicator ($20), lays on a thick layer.
Line-X: High heat application, special equiptment needed
I have personally used PPG LIC-904 industrial primer followed by SEM truck bed liner kit (2 part exoxy urethane. 1 gallon got me 4 coats on the floor... very thick (3/16"). Been very happy. 2 part epoxy coatings are usually $100.
Info on epoxy coatings - there is a "time to recoat" window that you must follow, or you will have to scuff up the surface before recoating. Coating inside the window allows for both CHEMICAL and MECHANICAL adhesion. This is a very important consideration - you must allow yourself time to complete the steps. Don't prime one weekend and then top coat on the next!!!
Adhesion is what you are looking for in a good coating.
Plan to spend about $150-$200 to get good results. I'd worry if you tried to do it any cheaper.
A Shutz gun is great for getting the coating to completely cover all surfaces and corners.
Good luck.
- Prep is most important. Sandblasting is good. Rust conversion products (POR does not have me convinced). Remove mill scale from new metal before coating (phosphoric acid works well).
- 2 part coatings are usually better than single stage products.
- Primer is usually matched to a top coat. 2 part primers are better than single stage primers.
Herculiner: single stage component.
SEM, Gator Guard, etc.: 2 part epoxy's. Use a Shutz applicator ($20), lays on a thick layer.
Line-X: High heat application, special equiptment needed
I have personally used PPG LIC-904 industrial primer followed by SEM truck bed liner kit (2 part exoxy urethane. 1 gallon got me 4 coats on the floor... very thick (3/16"). Been very happy. 2 part epoxy coatings are usually $100.
Info on epoxy coatings - there is a "time to recoat" window that you must follow, or you will have to scuff up the surface before recoating. Coating inside the window allows for both CHEMICAL and MECHANICAL adhesion. This is a very important consideration - you must allow yourself time to complete the steps. Don't prime one weekend and then top coat on the next!!!
Adhesion is what you are looking for in a good coating.
Plan to spend about $150-$200 to get good results. I'd worry if you tried to do it any cheaper.
A Shutz gun is great for getting the coating to completely cover all surfaces and corners.
Good luck.
Just like any other coatings product, it's the prep that is important!!
Don't line-X/hercu-line/whatever bare blasted steel. Make sure you prime first with any of the systems.
I personally like the hardness of the Line-X over the others.
Don't line-X/hercu-line/whatever bare blasted steel. Make sure you prime first with any of the systems.
I personally like the hardness of the Line-X over the others.
Sparky_Mark
IH8MUD Junior
Posts: 84
Rhino Lined, Hurculiner, Line-X, etc............
« Reply #14 on: Today at 02:04:44pm »
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I did some pretty heavy duty research on this issue. I had put a new floor pan in my FJ40 and certainly wanted to protect it the best I could. Here's a brief summary of what I learned:
Herculiner: single stage component.
SEM, Gator Guard, etc.: 2 part epoxy's. Use a Shutz applicator ($20), lays on a thick layer.
Line-X: High heat application, special equiptment needed
Sparky, I have a couple questions for you?
Currently doing a frame off resto on my 77, using a gozzard fiberglass tub http://www.crustycruisers.com I want to spray the bottom and firewall with a bed type liner to possibly prevent the glass from chipping and also reduce engine and road noise. I am leaning towards SEM, because a local body man has the applicator gun and said I could use it. Also, it's my understanding SEM is slightly cheaper than Line-x.
This particular person said SEM could be tinted to match the paint? In your research have you found this to be True? Can line-x also be tinted to a particular color? I would like whatever bed liner I use to basicly match the exterior paint.
I'm also concerned about heat issues in the engine compartment. With the 2F motor so close to the firewall (about a 1/4") wondering if engine heat will effect it? Do you think SEM could withstand the heat from the close proximity of the motor, or maybe it wouldn't be that much?
Thanks, Matt
IH8MUD Junior
Posts: 84
Rhino Lined, Hurculiner, Line-X, etc............
« Reply #14 on: Today at 02:04:44pm »
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I did some pretty heavy duty research on this issue. I had put a new floor pan in my FJ40 and certainly wanted to protect it the best I could. Here's a brief summary of what I learned:
Herculiner: single stage component.
SEM, Gator Guard, etc.: 2 part epoxy's. Use a Shutz applicator ($20), lays on a thick layer.
Line-X: High heat application, special equiptment needed
Sparky, I have a couple questions for you?
Currently doing a frame off resto on my 77, using a gozzard fiberglass tub http://www.crustycruisers.com I want to spray the bottom and firewall with a bed type liner to possibly prevent the glass from chipping and also reduce engine and road noise. I am leaning towards SEM, because a local body man has the applicator gun and said I could use it. Also, it's my understanding SEM is slightly cheaper than Line-x.
This particular person said SEM could be tinted to match the paint? In your research have you found this to be True? Can line-x also be tinted to a particular color? I would like whatever bed liner I use to basicly match the exterior paint.
I'm also concerned about heat issues in the engine compartment. With the 2F motor so close to the firewall (about a 1/4") wondering if engine heat will effect it? Do you think SEM could withstand the heat from the close proximity of the motor, or maybe it wouldn't be that much?
Thanks, Matt
Well guys, here's why go with Line-X:
Yes, Line-X can be tinted any color. But we'd rather not shoot white. Nobody can guarantee white will not yellow with UV exposure. Don't let anyone lie to you. Not even an extra UV coating will save it for long.
First off, surface prep is EVERYTHING. No spray-in bedliner will adhere properly without good surface prep.
The Line-X hot application is more costly and the machinery/heated hose is more cumbersome but the end result is a smoother application and more consistent curing of the product.
All of the spray-in liners out there use some formulation of polyurethane and some are high quality, some not so high. In the end, it's the application method, hot/cold that makes the difference. Cold application has a different formulation to allow it to flow and generally requries a longer cure time.
Line-X is hard but still flexible when cured. The finish is consistent and not as abrasive as some others.
Another benefit of Line-X is their lifetime nationwide warranty. That's worth a lot if you ask me. You're paying for professional, guaranteed application of high quality polyurethane bedliner material.
I chose Line-X for their reputation and nationwide marketing presence. Also because not just everyone can buy an application system and start spraying like some other bedliner brands.
Jody.
Yes, Line-X can be tinted any color. But we'd rather not shoot white. Nobody can guarantee white will not yellow with UV exposure. Don't let anyone lie to you. Not even an extra UV coating will save it for long.
First off, surface prep is EVERYTHING. No spray-in bedliner will adhere properly without good surface prep.
The Line-X hot application is more costly and the machinery/heated hose is more cumbersome but the end result is a smoother application and more consistent curing of the product.
All of the spray-in liners out there use some formulation of polyurethane and some are high quality, some not so high. In the end, it's the application method, hot/cold that makes the difference. Cold application has a different formulation to allow it to flow and generally requries a longer cure time.
Line-X is hard but still flexible when cured. The finish is consistent and not as abrasive as some others.
Another benefit of Line-X is their lifetime nationwide warranty. That's worth a lot if you ask me. You're paying for professional, guaranteed application of high quality polyurethane bedliner material.
I chose Line-X for their reputation and nationwide marketing presence. Also because not just everyone can buy an application system and start spraying like some other bedliner brands.
Jody.
Rhino sucks. It is wearing off in my cruiser. It also chips easily. I would not use it. Herculiner is my choice for the inside floor.
IMO, bedliners are for beds, not undersides. My cruiser was sandblasted, primed with PPG epoxy and then painted with flat black auto paint. All this done by the PO's sandblasting and coating buisness. Creats a great tough undercoating that looks good, and can be sprayed over bolts but is thin enough that it is not a big deal to remove a sprayed over bolt.
Line-X is great but too pricey for me.
IMO, bedliners are for beds, not undersides. My cruiser was sandblasted, primed with PPG epoxy and then painted with flat black auto paint. All this done by the PO's sandblasting and coating buisness. Creats a great tough undercoating that looks good, and can be sprayed over bolts but is thin enough that it is not a big deal to remove a sprayed over bolt.
Line-X is great but too pricey for me.
