Reversed battery terminals -No ECU , no accelerator (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 7, 2018
Threads
23
Messages
84
Location
Queens NY
[edited to include 2006 Land Cruiser]

Wondering if my ECU was fried.
Or maybe just the fusible link?

I had just finished replacing my CV axle and wheel bearings on the passenger side.

Separately, because I had to get a new battery from Costco and it was then perpetually on back order I was short a battery for this.

So, I decided to use a spare battery we have for our Lexus sedan, and it turns out the freaking terminals are reversed, causing me to put them on that way. I feel like a total moron, not realizing positive a negative terminals are not Universal. When I put the negative on (what turned out to be the batteries positive terminal), I found it strange that it was sizzling a bit more than the usual spark you get. My temporary battery was weak at around 10.5 volts to begin with and I’m hoping it reduced potential harm. That, and the fact I never turned it on may have limited the mess. since only then did I realize the mistake I made. So all told, I think I had them reversed for about a minute before disconnecting.

I ended up putting a correct interstate 27F battery on and waited a bit. The ECU never turned on. I let her run for around 15 minutes before putting it into gear. I pulled out of the driveway and got no acceleration whatsoever— only idling speed. I was able to put her back into reverse and back into the driveway where she sits now.

In my initial research suggests it could be the fusible link. I looked at the 80 amp fuse and it is intact. However, I may be looking at the wrong one.

As far as what is working:

ECU is not turning on at all.
Radio does not turn on at all.

Power locks, power, windows, power, mirror, blinkers, hazard, all work fine

Now I’m worried silly that I blew my ECU but hoping that it’s just a fuse or the link.

As far as acceleration goes, I get a small 200 RPM bump when I hit the pedal. Even flooring it gets only that much.

I’m praying the ECU isn’t fried.

I would greatly appreciate any suggestions get her back up and running.
 
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What year?
 
Had to fix this exact scenario on a parts truck I picked up a few years back. I doubt the ECU is fried. I don't recall specifically which fuses and relays, but there were a couple that went in the engine bay fuse box. Fixing those and bypassing the fusible link confirmed everything worked and it fired right up. The fusible link ended up being ok and it was just 1 relay and 1 or 2 fuses if I recall.
 
I vaguely remember on another car, with reversed battery terminals, it blew some fuses. Check all fuses including the Bussman fuses (High amp fuses with a plastic window). Did you check the fuses on + terminal?

By the way, I am running a 24F battery on the cruiser for past 6+ years.
 
In my initial research suggests it could be the fusible link. I looked at the 80 amp fuse and it is intact. However, I may be looking at the wrong one.

There are several fusible links in the plastic housing attached to the '+' terminal. Here are some pictures (of a crusty one):
 
There's a fuse under the positive battery terminal boxy thing and a 10a fuse under driver's knee area, just replace them and should be good.
 
Reporting back :

Checked the engine bay fuses-- all seem intact including the windowed 80amp fuses

Checked the Driver side foot well box -- one 10AMP ECU fuse blown and replaced ---- Result: Nav screen allows more functions -- Trip Info , but no nav map -- with message " The external system is not connected". Checked all the fuses in the DS footwell .. The rest seem good here.

Checked the passenger foot well fuse box -- one 10AMP fuse blown and replaced --- Result: ECU/Nav screen back on LEXUS screen --> "check the system" message

Radio still wasn’t working at all. Went back and checked the PS fuses again and sure enough the 10amp radio fuse was blown. Radio working now :)


So startup and driving is great.

Only thing now is the “ABS” amber light on the lower left dash is on. Tried disconnecting the negative terminal for 30 minutes each time and still the light came back. Most likely related to my CV axle / wheel bearing work I did just prior to this fiasco. Will have to go back and check the sensor I had to pull to get better room there.

So, far better than the ECU I was worried about!

Two of the fuses were ECU related
Seems to me that the 10 amp fuses are the first ones to check.


Thanks Mudders!
 
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Just wanted to say, in 46 years of being a gear head I never did this till I accidentally did it to my 06 lc100 today. I could say my old lady was up my ass, I could blame the new battery having both black posts but I did it. I’m owning it. I did it with a battery “pack jumper” a small Dewalt/ air compressor for about 1.5 seconds. Exactly what happened above happened to me and thanks to Onemudder I was able to (first find the hidden fuse boxes) but then know what to look for. A very big thank you!
 
When I buy a new battery, before the installation, I use my multimeter to make sure the RED is truly the positive. I once saw a reversed terminals in one of the threads!
 
Just wanted to say, in 46 years of being a gear head I never did this till I accidentally did it to my 06 lc100 today. I could say my old lady was up my ass, I could blame the new battery having both black posts but I did it. I’m owning it. I did it with a battery “pack jumper” a small Dewalt/ air compressor for about 1.5 seconds. Exactly what happened above happened to me and thanks to Onemudder I was able to (first find the hidden fuse boxes) but then know what to look for. A very big thank you!

$hIT happens bro... @4aBruisin we all done a mistake that literally has us doing a WTF did I just freaking do...but alas if we didn't do that stuff we don't learn and we start thinking we are immortal.

also @nissanh seriously WTF the terminals were reversed? now thats messed up.. now I am going to be paranoid...
 

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