Reusing chrome window gasket lock strip (1 Viewer)

[Spook50]

In a pinch and I can't get my hands on any of the black lock strip that's been talked about before on 'Mud. Has anyone been able to successfully reuse the chrome lock strip around their windows? I remember it all falling apart when I pulled it out of the gaskets for my cargo windows. I have GOT to get my lift gate apart so I can try to slow down this rust before I have to replace it though.

 

[Output Shaft]

How To Kill Rust That Is Forming Under Any Window Rubber Gasket.

Using a syringe, inject raw (or boiled) linseed oil up under the rubber gasket that is showing rust forming underneath it. Do it again a week or so later. Do it again a week or so after that. Rust will stop in that spot (under the gasket) for the remaining life of the car. Guaranteed.

Raw linseed oil is a little better to use than boiled linseed oil because it takes longer to dry. During the time it is wet (several days) it creeps a long distance past the application spot while also soaking deep into the microscopic pores in the rust down to the good steel. Then it sets up like a waterproof adhesive.

Linseed oil = death to rust.... and it is non-toxic too.

>>

As for the metal locking trim around the rear lift hatch. Mine is all deformed after I removed it and replaced it. I don't think it can be removed then replaced and look like new. At least I couldn't using a screwdriver. It's too fragile.

 

[Spook50]

That was my thought. Seems too flimsy to even be used as a temporary band-aid fix.

Interesting bit on the linseed oil. I can't remember ever hearing of that as a solution. Worth a try though. Hell worst case scenario it doesn't work and washes away.

 

[Major Nelson]

Call Torfab. He can probably find you some of the black locking strip.

 

[SteveH]

It may be too late, if you've pulled the chrome strip already, but....

Remove the windows from the inside, without removing the chrome strip. I did this on both side windows and the rear window of my FJ62. Not hard, but works best with 2 extra hands, and a handful of screwdrivers. I used plastic bike tire irons, too, which don't hack up the paint and can be jammed into the flange to hold the gasket away while you work the next section.

 

[60Works]

It is possible to reuse the chrome if you cut it out of the existing gasket. This keeps the underlying plastic from cracking into 2-3" pieces. It's still a PITA. I did Frankie's quarter glass this way and quickly learned to buy new for the lift gate and windshield.

Save the gasket or save the trim.

 

[Spook50]

Call Torfab. He can probably find you some of the black locking strip.

Kevin still has it too, and I was set to get the whole kit from him but both our lives got busy and we lost contact. Haven't been able to get a hole of him since, but I know he's been so busy he's had to keep Wagon Gear on hiatus. I think the local auto body supplier here has it too (or can at least get it). But thanks to a couple surprise expenses that popped up during the knuckle rebuild I had to back burner the lockstrip yet again. Problem is the rust on my lift gate is getting real ugly and I fear if I don't get on it soon there's going to be a nasty hole that I don't have the sheet metal skill to patch.

 

[sschruff]

Kevin still has it too, and I was set to get the whole kit from him but both our lives got busy and we lost contact. Haven't been able to get a hole of him since, but I know he's been so busy he's had to keep Wagon Gear on hiatus. I think the local auto body supplier here has it too (or can at least get it). But thanks to a couple surprise expenses that popped up during the knuckle rebuild I had to back burner the lockstrip yet again. Problem is the rust on my lift gate is getting real ugly and I fear if I don't get on it soon there's going to be a nasty hole that I don't have the sheet metal skill to patch.

K, if you find it, I'll buy it - divvy it up, send me what I need for my 60 and you can IOU me later down the road. Or if you win J's auction, maybe we can work something out, lol.

 

[Tinker]

Hey Spook!
Just got tired of battling my Audi & decided to look in a friendlier spot & there you were!
The black lock strip is from an old Dodge pickup windshield (when they 1st came out with the Cummins) which was a DW914 IIRC. Google to see when they made that truck then call your local auto glass shop to see if they can order the black lock strip. It used to be available in 1-windshield kit (with connector clip) or bulk. I need one too.

Other than that, howya been?

 

[Major Nelson]

Think Spooky was talking about KRowland. I already have mine installed. If you need some drop Tor a line...99% sure he'll have some in his shop. I know he had some last year.

 

[Jason Roberson]

Do you have to have the strip in or can you just leave it out

 

[60Works]

I've read the gaskets will leak without the insert to expand it. I've never tried it without so can't confirm it.

 

[Tinker]

Rubber Gasket Technology: Lock Strip is appropriately named. If you're removing the glass, you'll need a new lock strip if the old one won't cooperate (and they rarely do after 30 years). That's if you don't screw up the gasket.

And you don't need sealer in most cases: the gasket & glass will shift around in the opening when the body flexes & will tend to find a "sweet spot" where the gaps are closed & it won't leak. But that takes getting it wet and driving it.

Whatever you do, don't use hardware store silicone sealant - it contains acid and will rust your "pinch weld".

 

[Output Shaft]

and another tidbit...Urethane adhesive should only be used (should be used) for the windshield only. Toyota does not recommend using adhesives on any other window. See attached.

 

[OGBeno]

I think the misconception that the mouldings are essential for leak-free gaskets are false.

The first thing I did on both of my FJ60's was to remove the chrome. I have never had one lick of water in either of my trucks.

The gaskets themselves are fine. The chrome is not needed.

 

[Output Shaft]

Good to know.

 

[Spook50]

Rubber Gasket Technology: Lock Strip is appropriately named. If you're removing the glass, you'll need a new lock strip if the old one won't cooperate (and they rarely do after 30 years). That's if you don't screw up the gasket.

And you don't need sealer in most cases: the gasket & glass will shift around in the opening when the body flexes & will tend to find a "sweet spot" where the gaps are closed & it won't leak. But that takes getting it wet and driving it.

Whatever you do, don't use hardware store silicone sealant - it contains acid and will rust your "pinch weld".

What you said. Although I do have some 3M glazing compound that I would use between the gasket and the sheet metal before putting the new lock strip in. It couldn't hurt to have a little extra insurance against a leaky A-pillar. If nothing else it'll eliminate the windshield as a possible culprit. In my case, I think I have both the windshield and the gutter sealant allowing water in

 

[Tinker]

The reason Beno's windshield and back glass didn't leak is the gaskets had already taken their final set and were stuck to the paint and glass (just like my back glass). So you only need the lock strips for the 1st 20 years or so...

The historically proper way to seal a rubber gasket set is with butyl caulk, which is NLA in the glass industry but this might work http://www.gasketguy.com/kason-non-...Ic-aNlzJXSsN96T9JVAsiiiiucqik1kThrRoCVovw_wcB

And you only use that after the vehicle has been wet a few times and driven in between.

 

[OGBeno]

The reason Beno's windshield and back glass didn't leak is the gaskets had already taken their final set and were stuck to the paint and glass (just like my back glass). So you only need the lock strips for the 1st 20 years or so...

My experience is with brand new OEM gaskets on brand new OEM windshield and OEM tailgate glass. Yes, I am crazy.

 

[Tinker]

Lucky - enjoy!